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McCarrs Creek

Access: Climbing in Kuring gai Chase National Park

The new plan of management has been released, providing potential to legitimise access to areas other than Barrenjoey. If you would like to get involved in a working party, please get in touch with president.nsw@ climb.org.au

Here’s what the new plan says: Rock climbing and abseiling will continue to be allowed at a designated site in Ku-ring-gai Chase National Park at Barrenjoey Head. Applications for the authorisation of these activities at other suitable sites within Ku-ring-gai Chase National Park may be considered where safety, visitor access, environmental, and cultural heritage assessments have demonstrated that the activity can be sustainably managed and will not impact significantly on park values.

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Created 13 weeks ago

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Summary

Neat little crag chock full of highballs of every grade. Do not climb after rain.

Description

Proud tall lines just off the road, something for everyone provided you are comfortable with high cruxes.

Access issues inherited from Ku-ring-gai Chase

Rock climbing and abseiling will continue to be allowed at a designated site in Ku-ring-gai Chase National Park at Barrenjoey Head. Applications for the authorisation of these activities at other suitable sites within Ku-ring-gai Chase National Park may be considered where safety, visitor access, environmental, and cultural heritage assessments have demonstrated that the activity can be sustainably managed and will not impact significantly on park values.

Approach

Park on McCarrs Creek Rd just below the crag, jump across a small ditch and following the faint track into the bush for about 15m. The parking along the road here is minimal and very tight.

Ethic inherited from Ku-ring-gai Chase

ACANSW is working to reopen suitable areas in the National Park. If you want to be on the working party - established March 2024, please get in touch.

History

History timeline chart

Found in August 2021 by Yossi Sundakov-Krumins and Tyrone Clements.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

Stand start in the orange streak, bust up to a jug and up again to the lip where you'll traverse slightly right to mantle.

FA: Yossi Sundakov-Krumins, 6 Sep 2021

Stand start on the undercling right hand and crimp at the same height to the left. 2 hard bumps up to go for the top and over. Watch out for Eli

Yossi Sundakov-Krumins

FA: Yossi Sundakov-Krumins, 6 Sep 2021

Stand start up arete

Stand start on crimps and make way upards.

Sit start on crimps and make way upwards

Crouch start on big flat hold and make way to peak.

Fun slab above a floating pad arrangement. Start on the crimp rail and climb straight up.

FA: Yossi Sundakov-Krumins, 19 Aug 2021

Bouldering at its finest, somersault move is mandatory!

FA: Grant Shu

Stand start matched in the lowest left jug in the break, traverse left to some committing moves around the arête then fight the small bulge to gain the jug topout. A must do.

Yossi Sundakov-Krumins

FA: Yossi Sundakov-Krumins, 20 Aug 2021

Start on the same holds as Suspension of Disbelief and head straight up the face to a hard high crux. Not for the faint of heart. Will be a mega double digit line.

Stand start on the sharp aretê, straight up to a spicy finish on the left side of the high rooflet.

Mantis

FA: Tyrone Clements, 19 Aug 2021

Eliminate. Climb only using the sharp aretê, ignore the jugs on the right side, contrived but fun.

FA: Tyrone Clements, 20 Aug 2021

Start on the jugs the the left of Dr Death, climb up through sandy positive holds to the rooflet then tackle the spicy top out of Dr Death.

FA: Tyrone Clements, 22 Aug 2021

Sit start on the slopey rail, bust straight up with some big moves on good holds until you reach the rooflet. Traverse left a tad, then tackle the slopey topout.

Tyrone Clements

FA: Tyrone Clements, 20 Aug 2021

Right of Dr Death. Sit start on two nice crimps and climb the vague scooped holds straight up to another spicy mantle over a bad landing.

FA: Tyrone Clements, 22 Aug 2021

Stand start in hole and make way up and over

Stand start on slopey rail.

Starting on the juggy rail, mantle and head up to tackle the second bulge as well

FA: Yossi Sundakov-Krumins, 22 Aug 2021

Sit start make way upwards.

Sit start at base of arete and make way to peak.

Sit start on crimp rail and make way direct;y upwards

Starting on small crimps make way directly up.

No hands walk up the slab to some big moves towards the obvious jug and up to a tough mantle

FA: Yossi Sundakov-Krumins, 28 Aug 2021

Up sidepulls

Up crimps

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Mike Forward and Peter Balint

Date: 2023

With 2065 bouldering problems ranging from V0-V15 across 57 areas nestled around Sydney, the all new Sydney Bouldering Guide will keep you occupied for years to come. Just because we live in Sydney we'll try not to be biased but honestly this city has some amazing bouldering and usually not more than a few minutes off the road or some even near parks and train stations. There's no need to camp out and trek for hours to get to world class problems, they're right on your door step.

Authors Mike Forward and Peter Balint spent over 7 years putting this guide together and is the first new bouldering guide for Sydney in over 20 years. It's over 350 colour pages including 600+ colour photo tops, crag tops, amazing images and more.

Author(s): Neil Monteith & Simon Carter

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9780645299908

Featuring 1142 climbing routes located at 24 of the best crags in the Sydney area, this A5 size guide book is super user friendly with easy to use colour cliff topos and access maps. Covers sport and trad climbing at a variety of grades, something for everyone.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Fri 26 May
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