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Summary
Basalt
Sydenham Park bouldering
Description
All day sun
Sydenham Park offers natural and clean basalt edges 3-5m tall offering a good range of crack, face and slab problems up to V5. The rock is generally very clean, but with all less frequented areas there may be some loose rock.
It's is conveniently located in Melbourne's Northwest, just off the Calder Freeway.
Access issues
Allowed
The closest car park to the crag is the Keilor Public Golf Course. Note its gates close at 8pm in summer and 6pm in winter.
See the following link for opening times: https://www.keilorgolf.com.au/
Approach
Flat
5-10 min
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The closest carpark to the crag is the Keilor Golf Course, but beware that it currently closes at 8pm in the summer and 6pm in the winter.
Best to confirm current opening times: https://www.keilorgolf.com.au/
The crag is now accessed via a new public walking track added the Brimbank city council, the entry to which is here: https://maps.app.goo.gl/87kue4zm3e831qb19.
Sydenham Park - SydenhamParkCragMap.jpg
Exit the Calder Fwy at Kings Road and cross to the north side of the freeway. Drive down Grogan Road, turn onto Turnley Pkway and park at the golf course.
Walk back up Turnley Pkway and on Kings Road there will be the entrance to Sydenham Park. Walk down this track to the Keilor and Districts Model Aircraft Society.
The West Wall is located by a cairn set back in the grass at the hairpin bend just past the buildings.
The East Wall is further along this track and marked by a cairn just before a power pole.
Ethic
No bolting and no chipping.
If you disagree with any grades or description, do not unilaterally change them. Instead add a comment to the route.
History
This cliff was re-discovered by Tim Peterson during the Melbourne 2021 Covid lockdowns when movement was restricted to within 15km of home. He was the first to make it public.
Others had previously explored and developed the walls over the previous years.
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Selected Guidebooks more Hide
Author(s): Lindorff, Goding & Hodgson
Date: 2011
ISBN: 9780646529387
Get ready to fully experience the rock climbing scene in Victoria with Sublime Climbs, a comprehensive guidebook authored by Kevin Lindorff, Josef Goding, and Jarrod Hodgson. This full-color, 380-page book covers the best climbing locations in the region, including Mt Arapiles, Mt Buffalo, and the Grampians. It features descriptions of over 700 routes, topographic maps, and breathtaking images. Whether you're a seasoned pro or new to the sport, Sublime Climbs has everything you need to make the most of your climbing experience in Victoria and experience all of it's classic routes.
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Author(s): Chris Baxter & Glenn Tempest
Date: 1994
ISBN: 0646167308
A Guide to selected rockclimbs at Mt Arapiles,the Grampians and Mt Buffalo
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Thu 25 May
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