Flange Buttress Rock climbing 31 routes in area

Climb RH crack for 7 m, then move into LH crack and up to below a bush. Traverse L and onto arete to Nefarious anchor.

Start: Crack to the right of bolted arete (Nefarious 22)

A serious but rewarding single pitch route up the wall to the left of the obvious chimney ("Bert's Fear"). The first half of the route follows the line of least resistance up, trending leftwards, to the obvious large jug on the arete. The climbing on this section is sustained face climbing, with care needed to be taken with some loose rock to be avoided, and some devious gear placements to be found. Small wires very important. From the jug on the arete, the climbing is easier, following a series of short blockly corners up and trending back right to a ledge with two small trees and a cluster of fixed tat. From this tat, a single 60m rope will get you back to the deck (although you're probably better of leading the route on double ropes).

Contentious, original done as a trad route the unknowingly bolted a week later. Climbs the line left of the bolts, it is possible to go right of the bolt at the roof at grade 23.

Climb the wall left of "Bert's Fear", starting at the base of the "Bert's Fear" chimney. There is thin crux at the second U and then a pumpy hike to the top (all sport).

From the belay at the top of Brown Madonna, wander up rock face on the left and continue straight up hand cracks to the left of the chimney. Traverse right at top to Bert's Fear DBB

Sporty route between CSTS and P. Can be done as a second pitch to P, or a single pitch starting as for CSTS and using the DBB for that route to descend. Bring a light rack for the start and the finish

Originally a short, bold, route connecting the Fiddlesicks ledge to the 1st belay of Precarious. A retro-bolt or two (as part of the logical arete line CSTS) have tamed the route, which is now normally done as part of AT or CSTS.

Mostly sport route up the prominent arete left of Fiddlesticks. Start at the base of Fiddlesticks, and move left to arete (wire and small cam) to gain line of u-bolts. Balancy arete climbing on great rock. You'll probably place another wire & small cam up high before gaining a DBB.

Starting at a prominent corner with twin cracks.

1. 35m. Up the corner to belay at tree or notch.

2. 30m. Continue up the main crack-line above small tree to the big ledge on top of the buttress.

Continue as for "Bert's Fear" (45m) up the ridge or rap down your choice of three anchors right from ledge - Brown Madonna / Pleasant Screams.

Best done as one pitch however, the easier first pitch to this ultra classic is an excellent route in its own right.

1. 25m (22). Straight up the face just R of Fiddlesticks. A crimpy crux to get off the ground, then flow up the rest with pleasant moves.

2. 25m (25). Continue up the line of bolts to the anchors. Crux is just past the third bolt.

Follow the finger crack to the right of Neon God. Continue until a solid stance 2/3rds of the way up, resist the urge to move towards the Neon god bolts and head right up the small corner. Traverse left to clip once level with the anchors of of Neon God (pitch one).

Start: Crack system to the L, around arete of Brown Madonna.

1. 26m (18) Crack to corner

2. 36m (18) Crack to 1 m below bush, then traversee L to arete and up.

Start at the bottom of the face moving towards the R arête after 10 m and back L to a hanging belay.

The second pitch was climbed at 27 by moving into Brown Madonna at 2/3 height. Nowadays rarely done as Pleasant Screams Direct is a significantly better option.

One of the best climbs on the pipes.

Climb Pleasant Screams to just below the midway anchor then follow the line of bolts to the top in one mega pitch.

Avoid moving into After Midnight and Brown Madonna, not as contrived as it sounds.

Avoids the chimney at the bottom.

Climb the chimney 1m right of Brown Madonna to the hanging flake on the left where you can move back left into that route.

The tall overhanging column to the right of Brown Madonna, 60m single pitch route, sustained arete climbing as good as it gets. Take a no.1 camalot to avoid a runout at about 3/4 height. 19 quickdraws plus rap chains