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The Blue Hotel

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Description

Walk south along the Goldfields track from Dog Rocks for about 10 mins until you see the crag on the right: this is Invaders from Afar.

Access issues inherited from Mt Alexander

PLEASE READ IF IT IS YOUR FIRST TIME TO MT ALEXANDER

Most of Mt Alexander is a regional (not national) park, so while climbing is permitted general rules apply; dogs are permitted on leash, fires only in established fire places (from Parks Victoria website).

Being able to climb at Mt Alexander is a privilege and climbers need to act accordingly; especially given the increased amount of climbers frequenting the area due to Grampians closures. Please do not drop litter (e.g. fingertape) - in fact, if you can, remove any litter you see when you leave. Please keep to existing trails where you can. Do not engage in overzealous cleaning of climbs - keep it to the minimum. Don't harm any trees. Be courteous to fellow users of the park.

Toilets are available at the Leanganook campground and at the mountain bike park near the Oak Forest (close to Harcourt). Should you need to defecate please do so in accordance with established practices for wilderness behaviour (e.g. stay away from water courses, digging a hole etc).

Please see individual access notes for each area.

Ethic inherited from Mt Alexander

Do not bolt highball problems except with agreement of the first ascentionist. In general, keep bolting to a minimum. Since 2010 there was been almost zero bolting of new routes.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit Convert grades
Grade Route

Sit-start and climb the clean wall via technical moves.

FA: Peter Reynolds, 6 Oct 2020

Sit-start and climb the face and right arete.

FA: Peter Reynolds, 6 Oct 2020

Stand-start at the left-hand end of the blank wall around the corner from IFA and climb up the features to get to the juggy traverse. Head right along the traverse to finish.

FA: Peter Reynolds, 28 Sep 2020

Climb the hanging arete on its left-hand side. Start independently right of WTWGW up the blunt front face of the arete. Crux is gaining the hanging arete from the left. Solo after top rope.

FA: Peter Reynolds, 19 Sep 2020

Stand start just left of Birdsong and climb the left side of the arete into the scoop. Climb the wall above via the diagonal feature. Don't use the vertical crack/tree when gaining the upper wall. Solo after top rope.

FA: Peter Reynolds, 4 Jun 2020

Start as for WTWGW. At the horizontal break move left and climb the wall left of WTWGW up the leatherback features. Solo after top rope.

FA: Peter Reynolds, 13 Jul 2020

Start as for WTWGW but at the horizontal break traverse left all the way to finish easily up the wide crack as for TRB. Technical crux is the start.

FA: Peter Reynolds, 4 Jun 2020

Stand start off the pedestal, mantle and then finish as for TRB.

FA: Peter Reynolds, 12 Jun 2020

Stand start and climb the undercling traverse to finish up the second crack.

FA: Peter Reynolds, 4 Jun 2020

Stand start and climb the arete. When you can, rockover onto the slab and finish up the slab/arete just left of Olympus. Don't use the chockstone/boulder to help you get onto the slab.

FA: Peter Reynolds, 4 Jun 2020

Climb the lovely slab on the top tier of the crag using chicken-heads.

FA: Peter Reynolds, 4 Jun 2020

Sit-start and climb the arete.

FA: Peter Reynolds, 29 May 2020

Sit-start and climb the crack.

FA: Peter Reynolds, 29 May 2020

Sit-start and climb the wall right of DITH.

FA: Peter Reynolds, 29 May 2020

Stand-start on opposing layaways right of TITP and climb the vague arete. Named for John Allen RIP.

FA: Peter Reynolds, 29 May 2020

Sit start on the large flake down right of GMM start holds. Up to gaston into the stand start. Threatened to climb harder until some furtive mining revealed an unfortunately good foot hold at ground level. Feel free to climb it eliminate at ~V6.

Start as for GMM sit but rock back over the start holds to climb tricky black slab direct. May be a grade harder but more likely we just suck at slabs.

FA: Mark Rewi

Sit-start and climb the sharp arete.

FA: Peter Reynolds, 4 Jun 2020

Stand-start and climb the wall and breaks to a finish using a chicken-head feature.

FA: Peter Reynolds, 4 Jun 2020

Stand-start matched on undercling and climb the groove.

FA: Peter Reynolds, 18 Jun 2020

Stand-start around the corner from RP and climb up to the sloping groove/shelf and finish.

FA: Peter Reynolds, 18 Jun 2020

Climb the crack.

FA: Peter Reynolds, 21 Sep 2020

Stand-start and climb the wall using nice holds.

FA: Peter Reynolds, 21 Sep 2020

Stand-start and climb the technical wall.

FA: Peter Reynolds, 21 Sep 2020

Sit-start and climb the crack.

FA: Peter Reynolds, 9 Jul 2020

Sit-start and climb the corner and slab – don’t go too far right.

FA: Peter Reynolds, 9 Jul 2020

Start up WAW and traverse the horizontal crack to finish up Firewalking.

FA: Peter Reynolds, 9 Jul 2020

Sit-start and climb the bulge/arete.

FA: Peter Reynolds, 9 Jul 2020

Sit-start and climb the short wall right of AMS.

FA: Peter Reynolds, 9 Jul 2020

Sit-start and climb the arete.

FA: Peter Reynolds, 9 Jul 2020

Crouch start low on the arete (don't stand on the adjacent boulder). Climb the arete on it's right-hand side to half-way. Then move left to jugs and climb up via tricky moves to a slabby finish.

FA: Peter Reynolds, 19 Sep 2020

Sit-start and climb the scooped, featured arete to a crimp on the lip. From here traverse right, matching on the sloper to gain better holds and the top out. Fantastic climbing - make sure you match the sloper! Dont even need to try this to see it's 3 stars!

FA: Peter Reynolds, 7 Jul 2020

Around the corner from HBA. Stand-start and climb the left-hand wall of the blank face via long reaches to a big potato hold. From here move up and left, swarming around the arete to finish. Solo after top rope.

FA: Peter Reynolds, 19 Sep 2020

Stand-start and climb the wall.

FA: Peter Reynolds, 7 Jul 2020

The short arete. Sit-start with two hands laybacking off the arete. Avoid barn-dooring, and make a long move to the comfortable pocket jug before topping out on somewhat gravelly rock.

FA: Jamie, 16 Jan 2021

Open project.

Sit-start and climb the rib.

FA: Peter Reynolds, 21 Sep 2020

Stand-start and climb up to a mantle finish. Don't stand on the rib with the right foot. Avoid TR.

FA: Peter Reynolds, 21 Sep 2020

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Lindorff, Goding & Hodgson

Date: 2011

ISBN: 9780646529387

Get ready to fully experience the rock climbing scene in Victoria with Sublime Climbs, a comprehensive guidebook authored by Kevin Lindorff, Josef Goding, and Jarrod Hodgson. This full-color, 380-page book covers the best climbing locations in the region, including Mt Arapiles, Mt Buffalo, and the Grampians. It features descriptions of over 700 routes, topographic maps, and breathtaking images. Whether you're a seasoned pro or new to the sport, Sublime Climbs has everything you need to make the most of your climbing experience in Victoria and experience all of it's classic routes.

Author(s): Chris Baxter & Glenn Tempest

Date: 1994

ISBN: 0646167308

A Guide to selected rockclimbs at Mt Arapiles,the Grampians and Mt Buffalo

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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