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Tantalus Boulder

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Access issues inherited from Mt Alexander

PLEASE READ IF IT IS YOUR FIRST TIME TO MT ALEXANDER

Most of Mt Alexander is a regional (not national) park, so while climbing is permitted general rules apply; dogs are permitted on leash, fires only in established fire places (from Parks Victoria website).

Being able to climb at Mt Alexander is a privilege and climbers need to act accordingly; especially given the increased amount of climbers frequenting the area due to Grampians closures. Please do not drop litter (e.g. fingertape) - in fact, if you can, remove any litter you see when you leave. Please keep to existing trails where you can. Do not engage in overzealous cleaning of climbs - keep it to the minimum. Don't harm any trees. Be courteous to fellow users of the park.

Toilets are available at the Leanganook campground and at the mountain bike park near the Oak Forest (close to Harcourt). Should you need to defecate please do so in accordance with established practices for wilderness behaviour (e.g. stay away from water courses, digging a hole etc).

Please see individual access notes for each area.

Ethic inherited from Mt Alexander

Do not bolt highball problems except with agreement of the first ascentionist. In general, keep bolting to a minimum. Since 2010 there was been almost zero bolting of new routes.

Routes

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Grade Route

Climb crack and block just right of outer edge through small overlap. V2/3 from an awkward sit.

Fantastic high knife blade arete around right from Tantalus. It is climbed from a sit-start on its left side all the way. Committing.

Stunning compression line from a stand start.

FA: Garry A Williams, 2020

Sit start to Tantalus. Overall, no harder than the original but the sit start adds some nice moves and a little fatigue.

FA: Peter Reynolds, 26 Sep 2021

Start as for the sit start of Sound and Colour. Punch up to good holds and then move higher to sharp edges. Fun climbing. Exit via the chimney formed by the two boulders touching. Excellent chicken wings and chimney grovelling are possible but more graceful options exist as everything you can reach is in.

FA: Zach Azeez, 20 Mar

Tantalus' crimpier, narrower neighbour. Compress up the left arête and right crimp rail from a stand (left hand sharp side-pull on the arête and right on the crimp rail)

FA: Fraser Gust, 19 May 2023

From the start of Between Worlds, continue up the blankish slab to top out on the Sound & Colour boulder. Tantalus boulder is out. Hard.

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Lindorff, Goding & Hodgson

Date: 2011

ISBN: 9780646529387

Get ready to fully experience the rock climbing scene in Victoria with Sublime Climbs, a comprehensive guidebook authored by Kevin Lindorff, Josef Goding, and Jarrod Hodgson. This full-color, 380-page book covers the best climbing locations in the region, including Mt Arapiles, Mt Buffalo, and the Grampians. It features descriptions of over 700 routes, topographic maps, and breathtaking images. Whether you're a seasoned pro or new to the sport, Sublime Climbs has everything you need to make the most of your climbing experience in Victoria and experience all of it's classic routes.

Author(s): Chris Baxter & Glenn Tempest

Date: 1994

ISBN: 0646167308

A Guide to selected rockclimbs at Mt Arapiles,the Grampians and Mt Buffalo

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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