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Gandalf's cave

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 19

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Description

Bring lots of pads, abs, lats, biceps...

At the center of this cluster of boulders is a large fix tree which is directly over this cave.

Access issues inherited from Mt Yarrowyck

The majority of the bouldering and climbing at Yarrowyck is located on private property, and the land owner was a climber and has granted access to all climbers anytime, EXCEPT for all crags east of the ridge line which are too close to the land owners house and are off limits, in particular 'Captain Pugwash Memorial Buttress'.

Please do not leave garbage around, leave gates as you find them and do not harass stock. Climbing at Yarrowyck is a privilege, not a right.

The access tracks are in the Nature Reserve which is managed by NPWS which takes you to the Aboriginal Rock Art site. Bouldering or climbing in the reserve is not clear so please avoid this and check the boundaries when exploring.

https://www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au/visit-a-park/parks/mount-yarrowyck-nature-reserve

https://www.environment.nsw.gov.au/topics/parks-reserves-and-protected-areas/park-management/documents/mount-yarrowyck-nature-reserve

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Routes

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Grade Route

Awesome moves starting as a sds back in the cave traversing through all three layers of granite, out, around and then up to top out.

FA: James Scarborough, 2002

Start heel hooking on the easy right side and then through progressively harder moves.

Start on the easy slopers, the about 4 moves left to the last 'decent' holds and then up.

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Fri 26 May
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