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Hawkes Head Cave

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 51
13

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Summary

A well protected bouldering cave with several moderates from V4-V11, and a spectacular view over Killcare and Putty Beach. In Bouddi National Park.

Description

A well protected bouldering cave with several moderates from V4-V11, and a spectacular view over Killcare and Putty Beach. In Bouddi National Park. Short walk in, moderate grades, great view. What more could you want?!

Access issues

We are climbing on Darkinjung land. Take your rubbish with you and respect the rules of the 2020 management plan.

Climbing is permitted under the 2020 plan of management. It is imperative climbers adhere to a code of conduct. Groups of more than eight people need a permit from the NPWS. https://acansw.files.wordpress.com/2020/09/code-of-conduct-2019.pdf

Approach

Head up Hawkes Head Drive, the sealed road turns into a bumpy sandy road after around 400m you will see an area on the left hand side blocked off by large sandstone blocks. Park on the side near here. Walk in past the blocks and continue to make your way to the cliff line. Once you've hit the cliffline turn left and you will come across a path through the bush which will walk straight through then wrap around right, back towards the cliffline. Once back at the cliff line turn left and you will walk over a cliff with white paint scattered all over it. From this point walk down into the hollowed out rock which a great view over Killcare. From here, walk down and right through a collapsed cave system and after 20m you'll arrive at the cave.

(If you cant drive your car over the bumps, park at the end of a sealed road and walk up)

History

History timeline chart

Jason Piper and Tim Hasnoot found the cave in 2010 and established the first line "Mel Gibson Memorial" in 2020 Jason told Tom Hodgson about the cave which he then came and established most of the remaining lines in the cave

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

The most obvious line in the cave. Sit start at the base with a left hand on the jug and right hand down low on the sloper. Move directly out the roof and top out.

FA: JASON PIPER, 2010

Start as for "Lethal Weapon" and climb up until the dish before the undercling. Now keep tension and make a move out to the upper part of the jug rail (lower third is out) and finish as per "Mel Gibson Memorial". A bit contrived but fun!

FA: Gabriel Grimison, 2024

Lethal Weapon but with the Mel Gibson Memorial top out up left. Jug rail is out.

Normal cave start, bust out right heading towards the undercling jug using crafty toe hook and wraps. Take the cut on the undercling jug (Tuck tuck tuck!) and top out right. (Main jug rail is NOT in)

Start in slot jug on the left, jump (reach if tall) to next slotted hold. Traverse right and finish up Mel Gibson Memorial

Link Mad Max into Lethal Weapon. (Main jug rail is out as per Lethal Weapon)

Usual cave start. Traverse out left to the slotted jug (effectively reversing Mad Max) then straight through the roof on two poor left hands. Huck for glory!

The most direct line for Braveheart. Start on slotted jug as per Mad Max, and head straight out the roof as for Braveheart.

Start as for Braveheart Direct. After gaining the jug, before Braveheart crux, bust out left to an edge. Right hand to a nothing hold then making a crux move to the slopey lip. Traverse right to finish as per other problems.

FA: Sam Healy

Starting as for Braveheart, make some tricky moves from the sit start to join into Chicken Run. Finishing for that problem. Could be 12

FA: Sam Healy

Sit start under the small prow on the low left hand crimp and right hand low on the sloper rail. Right heel up and continue directly up the prow and mantle in the little cavelet.

Ledges and back wall for feet are not in. One of the best lowballs going.

Warning Rock: Broken hold

Mel Gibsons comp era. Stand start in scoop holding a small crimp with the right hand, now, balance, press or jump your way out to the two jug slots and mantle out left. Lay down finish. Unusual to grade.

Start as for Fatman, but using the back ledge for feet, match the sloper rail and mantle up to the slot jugs of Daddys House. Finish as per that problem

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Fri 26 May
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