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Big Wall Environs

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Description

Taller wall 200m south of the Lower Tier. Drop down a few ledges then walk along base to obvious big wall. Middle part of wall is pretty blank to half height, evidence of previous development with single carrot and some chipped holds up the centre.

Potential for more routes on big wall proper and cave just past it.

Climbs described right to left.

Access issues inherited from New South Wales and ACT

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

Approach

30m past fork in road you'll find a small cairn (you need to be looking for it). Turn left here and you'll find a very lightly worn trail (needs more traffic).Follow the white tape to access gully.

Routes

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Grade Route

Up face just in front of boulder

FFA: Rod wills, 12 Nov 2017

Up face just left of tree tending left to anchors

FFA: rod wills, 8 Apr 2018

Just right of tree, up pockets over slight bulge to anchors

FFA: Kevin Van Tilburg, 14 Nov 2017

Start just over the lip with your feet in the cave. Very burly crimp moves through to the jugs.

Start in the middle of the obvious break, then powerful span move into a thin pocket, then crimp your way to the first ledge

FA: John Bignold & Jarred Jordan, 7 Sep 2021

Semi-stand start at the two obvious pockets and head straight up. Hard.

Start down in the little cave and power your way up through the crimps and pockets, heading left and linking into Little Spoon. (Open project with proposed grade of v11/12)

Same start as 'Big Spoon', but head right out of the cave and up through the pockets. Ending on a small crimp rail above.

FA: John Bignold & Jarred Jordan, 14 Sep 2021

Start on the large jug rail right of 'Starship Captain', following the pockets to a burly finish on the small crimp rail above.

FA: John Bignold & Jarred Jordan, 15 Sep 2021

Start far right on the obvious jugs and traverse left and finish up Starship Troopers.

FA: John Bignold & Jarred Jordan, 2021

Powerfully pulling on pockets, funky crimps, and then jugs to finish

FA: John Bignold & Jarred Jordan, 16 Aug 2021

Up past starting pockets, tending left over break to anchors.

FFA: Kevin Van Tilburg, 20 Nov 2017

Up faint arete finishing at anchors just past break in scoop

FFA: Rod wills, 8 Jan 2017

Up thin face past scar and over rounded bulge to anchors.

FA: Tim Mayer, 14 Apr 2018

1m left of AMLOS up face at flakes tending left over bulge into cave and anchors on lip.

FFA: rod, 10 Dec 2017

10m rt of F, start in corner. Up ramp into cave and out again onto slabs to anchor

FFA: rod, 6 Aug 2017

The obvious (3rd up) horizontal break across almost the entire cliff.

Start: Up 'A Momentary Lapse of Sanity'

  1. 5m Left to semi-hanging belay from lower-offs of Flaked.

  2. 25m Continue traversing left along break with excellent natural pro and finish up to belay at Banksia.

FA: Graham Dowden & Angus M, 22 Apr 2018

Scramble up btw boulders (shared start), up slab tending left to shared anchors.

FFA: Rod wills, 19 Nov 2017

Scramble up btw boulders (shared start), Right up short slab to anchors.

FFA: Rod Wills, 19 Nov 2017

Down around corner on next short wall below cave.

Up orange face, hard move to anchors if your tall take couple grades off.

FFA: Rod Wills, 12 Feb 2017

Up featured channel to anchors

FFA: Rod wills, 12 Feb 2017

Up featured face clipping bolts on the right as you go.

FFA: Rod Wills, 12 Feb 2017

The large orange cave on far right side of this cliff contains Aboriginal artwork along the base. Please avoid climbing in this cave.

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Mike Forward and Peter Balint

Date: 2023

With 2065 bouldering problems ranging from V0-V15 across 57 areas nestled around Sydney, the all new Sydney Bouldering Guide will keep you occupied for years to come. Just because we live in Sydney we'll try not to be biased but honestly this city has some amazing bouldering and usually not more than a few minutes off the road or some even near parks and train stations. There's no need to camp out and trek for hours to get to world class problems, they're right on your door step.

Authors Mike Forward and Peter Balint spent over 7 years putting this guide together and is the first new bouldering guide for Sydney in over 20 years. It's over 350 colour pages including 600+ colour photo tops, crag tops, amazing images and more.

Author(s): Neil Monteith & Simon Carter

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9780645299908

Featuring 1142 climbing routes located at 24 of the best crags in the Sydney area, this A5 size guide book is super user friendly with easy to use colour cliff topos and access maps. Covers sport and trad climbing at a variety of grades, something for everyone.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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