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The Courtyard

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Description

Top spot for a first visit, catches morning sun and contains a number of crag classics, mostly on slabs and slabby aretes

© (Atrax)

Access issues inherited from New South Wales and ACT

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

Approach

After the second creek crossing walk right along the bank, under the massive roof to reach the base of a fine curving arete. This is 'Frankenstein', the classic-as-classic-can-be V0.

© (Atrax)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Start under the roof over the pit of death and head toward the lip. Crux on the face and up high and left to finish. Spotter and pads are advisable.

FA: Neil Wallace, 2015

Rightmost line on this boulder, off the mossy slab and up the short wall

well right of TZ, follow slopey breaks up to the summit ridge above a dodgy landing

Delicately straight upwards to the finish of 'The Trance'

To the right of 'Frankenstein' is a big highball slab. 'The Trance' follows a rightward-leaning faint seam to the top

FA: Ang Connelly

Slab project mentioned in the guide. Plumb line to the peak of the boulder. Done on top rope by Pete Balint but never without.

Climb under the peak to about three quarter boulder height, run out of feet and bail to the arete.

FA: Chris, 23 Jul 2020

That's what we're here for! Megaclassic curving arete, as good as any and at a reasonable grade too. There is a bolt with a fixed hanger at the top of this boulder.

The 'Frankenstein' arete taken on the left-hand side. There is a bolt with a fixed hanger at the top of this boulder.

Slabby top wall of the 'Frankenstein' boulder. There is a bolt with a fixed hanger at the top of this boulder.

Wall left of Golden Showers. Big jump off of rubbish crimps. Connor Lucas

FA: Tom Farrell, 2017

Obvious square-cut corner, curving at the top. Either a great problem, or a bag, depending on your point of view

Cranky wall immediately right, rated.

The arete right of 'Elm Street'

Matti Puckridge

Climb the wall right of Blunt Instrument using the arete, topping out to the right.

FA: Ben 'Me! Me! Me!' Barin, 2005

Easy arete and a good intro, climbed on the right all the way up.

Marvellous slab climbing to the right. Start at the small boulder and go straight up.

Tough slab to the right, underneath the tree

Stand start and up the wall between Disco Inferno and Rocksteady Teddy.

FA: Neil Wallace, 12 Aug 2019

To the right is a faint seam. smear on up left of this.

Dan Stephenson

Subtle line 1m R of Rocksteady Teddy

FA: me, 2011

Lovely slab.

To the right, get established in the big pocket then run for the top

a metre of two right, up a couple of moves then left via slopey ramp to finish up 'Jemima'

Straight up from the start of 'Sesame Street'

low start on the arete, scary finish

Left of 'Poltergeist', start in the corner, go up and leftish

Stand start up slab

Did you know?

Did you know that you can create an account to record, track and share your climbing ascents? Thousands of climbers are already doing this.

Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Mike Forward and Peter Balint

Date: 2023

With 2065 bouldering problems ranging from V0-V15 across 57 areas nestled around Sydney, the all new Sydney Bouldering Guide will keep you occupied for years to come. Just because we live in Sydney we'll try not to be biased but honestly this city has some amazing bouldering and usually not more than a few minutes off the road or some even near parks and train stations. There's no need to camp out and trek for hours to get to world class problems, they're right on your door step.

Authors Mike Forward and Peter Balint spent over 7 years putting this guide together and is the first new bouldering guide for Sydney in over 20 years. It's over 350 colour pages including 600+ colour photo tops, crag tops, amazing images and more.

Author(s): Neil Monteith & Simon Carter

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9780645299908

Featuring 1142 climbing routes located at 24 of the best crags in the Sydney area, this A5 size guide book is super user friendly with easy to use colour cliff topos and access maps. Covers sport and trad climbing at a variety of grades, something for everyone.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Fri 26 May
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