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Summary
Sandstone
One of Bret Easton Ellis's favourite.
Description
Sydney cave grunginess at it's finest. Classic include 'Fight Club' (V10) and 'Tyler Durden' (V12)
Access issues inherited from New South Wales and ACT
If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/
Approach
Park on the Wakehurst Parkway in Frenchs Forest where there are a few white posts to mark a drain and where a power line access track goes up the hill. Follow the power lines up towards where the track ends, head up and left following orange marks on the tree until you reach the cliff line. Further to the right, scramble up some big steps to reach the cave.
Alternative EASIER approach - at the end of paxton street frenchs forest take the trail off to the right before house number 55 and follow it around behind the house until the end of number 55‘s yard. Take a right towards the cliffline and follow the obvious track along the cliffline leftwards(you should be always on top of the cliffline) until you see a huge cave beneath someone's house. That cave is where the den located. Walk back around 10m, and follow a faint track on your right hand side, you will come across a ladder bolted on a tree and a chain, climb down the ladder. The cave will be on your left.
Ethic
The most obscene graffiti from the local kids has been cleaned off by Dave and Mike Kellermann and Tim O'Neill but why not have a go cleaning some more off yourself.
History
Rumour has it that Chris Whiting (NZ) bolted a route here years ago but it was independently discovered by Dave and Mike Kellermann and then developed with the help of Tim O'Neill.
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Selected Guidebooks more Hide
Author(s): Mike Forward and Peter Balint
Date: 2023
With 2065 bouldering problems ranging from V0-V15 across 57 areas nestled around Sydney, the all new Sydney Bouldering Guide will keep you occupied for years to come. Just because we live in Sydney we'll try not to be biased but honestly this city has some amazing bouldering and usually not more than a few minutes off the road or some even near parks and train stations. There's no need to camp out and trek for hours to get to world class problems, they're right on your door step.
Authors Mike Forward and Peter Balint spent over 7 years putting this guide together and is the first new bouldering guide for Sydney in over 20 years. It's over 350 colour pages including 600+ colour photo tops, crag tops, amazing images and more.
Author(s): Neil Monteith & Simon Carter
Date: 2021
ISBN: 9780645299908
Featuring 1142 climbing routes located at 24 of the best crags in the Sydney area, this A5 size guide book is super user friendly with easy to use colour cliff topos and access maps. Covers sport and trad climbing at a variety of grades, something for everyone.
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Tue 23 May
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