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Scattered Crags Bouldering All Bouldering 28 routes in area

29
BLDV
VBVB+V0-V0V0+V1V2V3V4V5V7

Seasonality

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Summary

Variety of quality boulders beside the walking track.

Description

Boulders mostly concentrated on eastern side of the creek but there is plenty of potential for more boulders on both sides. All problems are listed on this page and each area is described.

Access issues inherited from Nowra

This climbing area has recently become a focus spot for tension between climbers and the local Aboriginal community. Be informed and respect closures. Clean up chalk and rethink adding additional new routes to crags with access issues.

Approach

Driving South on Princes Hwy, turn right onto Turley Avenue, then left on Lynburn Avenue. Park in small parking area. Walk north along fire trail until the Bomaderry Creek Walking Track becomes apparent (on your left). ONLY GO DOWN HERE for the Swamp Boulder.

For all other boulders, keep walking along fire trail and find next entry point (has a sitting bench marking it). Walk down steps and follow trail along creek in northerly direction for all other boulders.

Ethic inherited from Nowra

Mostly developed as a sport climbing and bouldering area. Some trad climbing exists, mainly the pure cracks. If developing new areas keep an eye and and ear out for Aboriginal cultural heritage, including cave art.

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Contents

Routes

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Grade Route

Western Side Back to contents

On the western side of the creek. All problems are either down by the creek or are along the walking track. There are a number of unknown boulders that have been climbed on this side (chalked at the least), which are currently not listed here.

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2
V4 ★ What Are You Doing In My Swamp? Boulder

Sit start, left hand undercling, right hand pinching square pebble. Head up, trending left to top out. Note that arm barring the low boulder is allowed, but feet are NOT allowed on low boulder.

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3
V5 ★ Pongo Arms Boulder

Start with hands matched in good undercling. Go up, finishing at jugs above the sloper. Top out looks mank but might go.

Bum Cave Back to contents

Cave above the walk-in stairs. Good rock. There is potential for some more (hard!) lines.

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5
V5 ★★ Bum the Witch Boulder

Sit start on ledge, facing out from the cave, with hands compressing the large blob above where you scramble up from the stairs. Transfer to the juggy flake and compress your way to the finishing jug slot.

6
V7 ★★★ Hold Onto Your Butts Boulder

Sit start in back of cave, where the major weakness meets the backwall, with your left hand in dish above your head and right hand on large pinch pebble. Follow slopers along the weakness, which eventually turns right. Finish in nice jug slot with dead plant coming out of it, just above the cliff drop-off.

Shotgun Wall Back to contents

Short wall with perfect water polished rock. Several pleasant easy problems that all top out. These are also rain protected by a large roof. However, it does seep after prolonged periods of rain. Just around the corner from Julian rocks leftside

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8
V0 Break-Action Boulder 3m

Leftmost boulder. Sit start at slopey rail at edge of water streak. Up via nice pockets and rails

FA: Alec Landstra, 2021

9
V1 ★★ Bird-Shot Boulder 3m

Sit start on Jug rail and up through nice edges and pocket

FA: Alec Landstra, 2021

10
V1 ★★ Double Barrelled Boulder 3m

Sit start on jug pocket and up through the awesome 'double barrelled' pocket

FA: Alec Landstra, 2021

11
V1 ★ Pump-Action Boulder 3m

Sit start on slopey rail. Awkward first move then easy upper section and top out

FA: Alec Landstra, 2021

12
V0 ★ Buckshot Boulder 3m

sit start at jug rail, then up via nice edges

FA: Alec Landstra, 2021

13
VB ★ Semi-Auto Boulder 3m

Up the cool features at the right hand end of the wall

FA: Alec Landstra, 2021

The Underworld Back to contents

Boulders down by the creek just below Sewer Wall.

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15
V3 ★★★ Hell Of A Life Boulder

Start with right hand in good slot and left hand on gaston. Go up on good holds, making use of arete to reach the top. Mantle.

16
V6 ★ Imhotep Boulder

Gunky low ledge is in. Start left hand on crimp, right hand in undercling. Move out and around roof to top out.

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17
V4 ★ Shinigami Salami Boulder

Stand start (crouch if you're tall) on lowest break. Up to the left and top out.

FA: I Skip Crux Holds

18
V7 ★★ Mathayus Boulder

Crouch start to the right of large slabby boulder on tiny boulder (under rooflet) with left hand crimp and right hand jug). Head up diagonally, doing your best not to dab the slabby boulder, and top out above the slabby boulder.

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V8 ★★ Kali Ma Boulder

Start as per Mathayus but traverse left on slopers and finish up the left hand peak of the boulder.

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20
V5 ★★ Necronomicon Boulder

Contrived start but it forces a nice compression sequence.

Low sit start with right hand in jug side pull and left hand in slot crimp on arete. Slap and crank up to jugs, then head up to arete peak for a top out. Note that the pocket on the right-hand side is only for the right hand, if you put your left hand in it, take V4 (see next climb).

21
V4 ★ Necrotic Boulder

As per Necronomicon, but with different start feet so you can go left hand into the jug pocket. This avoids the harder compression sequence and is a nice variant in its own right.

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22
I Cut Like A Boob Boulder
23
Three Boobed Lady Boulder

Crossover Wall Back to contents

Nice wall with good rock which only features one boulder. Just beyond sewer wall

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25
V4 ★★ Crossover Boulder 6m

Nice rising traverse starting at obvious jug and topping out way to the right via some sick moves. A direct finish is probably possible

FA: Alec Landstra, 2021

Ammo Dump Back to contents

One stand alone boulder directly opposite the first routes at the ammo dump. Unmissable

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27
V3 ★★★ Dead Meat Boulder 6m

Classic! Lovely tall boulder with beautiful holds and moves. Vaguely resembles an easier version of Roadkill. Sit start at good edges and up! Scramble down tree at back of boulder to get down

FA: Alec Landstra, 2021

Mosquito Boulder Back to contents

Huge mostly freestanding boulder with lots of great steep rock. This is the same boulder that has Scam NSV on it. There are some really classic problems on this boulder.

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29
V3 Eaten Alive Boulder 4m

Sit start at mega jug and up via a sandy sidepull and committing heel. Finishes at diagonal break

FA: Alec Landstra, 2021

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30
V4 ★★ Thirsty Boulder 4m

Awesome left trending line up the obvious 'rib'. Low sit start and up finishing at jug sidepull

FA: Alec Landstra, 2021

31
V2 ★★ Blood is a Protein Shake Boulder 3m

Really nice line up the series of huecos. Low sit start on obvious jugs and finishes at jug sidepull as per Thirsty

FA: Alec Landstra, 2021

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V3 ★ Itchy Boulder 3m

Sit start as per Blood is a Protein Shake and up and left through some nice 3 finger pockets. Finish at obvious good edge

FA: Alec Landstra, 2021

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33
V3 ★ White Boy Can’t Fly Boulder 4m

Low sit start on pockets. Head up to the right then back left to easy top out.

FA: Zac Schofield & I Skip Crux Holds, 2023

34
V2 ★ Relapse Boulder

Sit start with left hand side pull and right hand crimp. Up face then step right to top out.

FA: I Skip Crux Holds

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35
V7 ★★ Hungry for More Boulder 8m

Super classic line with a rad compression sequence and lip pull. Starts way back in cave on jugs and finishes at the big slopey shelf. Could probably be topped out if it were cleaned and if you had lots of pads

Alec Landstra

FA: Alec Landstra, 2021

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Nowra Climbing Guide Book

Author(s): Simon Carter, Carlie LeBreton, Rob LeBreton, Neil Monteith, Rod Young

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780994278449

The new Nowra guide is the most comprehensive guide to one of Australias largest sport climbing destinations. Coincidently it also includes New Nowra or Braidwood Park as it is now known which contains 650 routes in itself. With over 1500 routes all up it will be impossible to run out of projects to get yourself spanked on ever again.

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