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Nowra
The best sport climbing in the state. Sometimes ugly, but great climbing, with a huge variety of styles. Also home to some of the state's hardest bouldering. |
Hospital Rocks
Hospital Rocks is located opposite the hospital in Nowra. It has easy access and the routes are easy to set top ropes on. This makes it a good beginners area but also has a few harder ones for other climbers too. 2 minute walk in. Hot in summer. Watch for the Nowra Lads! |
Hospital Rocks |
Slabby Wall
The 1st cliff you encounter from the track. Take the first gully directly opersite the hospital and turn right at the bottom. The rock is a little soft and has been losing flakes for years making some of the climbs rather stiff for the grade. |
Hospital Rocks Slabby Wall |
21
Mad Dog
2 bolts to chains. |
19
★ Hair'o'tha Dog
Graded 17 ... going on 21! |
11
★ Little Boxer Girl
This climbing area has recently become a focus spot for tension between climbers and the local Aboriginal community. Be informed and respect closures. Clean up chalk and rethink adding additional new routes to crags with access issues. |
12
★ Scarlet Dog (LH variant)
Uses the link up bolt to Little Boxer Girl to skip the crux of Scarlet Dog. Move left to the little cave under the link up bolt, go straight up. Once past the (high) first bolt, traverse right to finish the rest of Scarlet Dog. Nice variant for beginners. |
16
★ Scarlet Girl
Uses the lone ringbolt in the middle of the climbs for a linkup! Goes from Scarlet Dog into Little Boxer Girl or vice versa - formerly 'Scarlet Poodles'. (Name change to save confusion - no link to Crashing Poodles.) |
13
★ Scarlet Dog
This climbing area has recently become a focus spot for tension between climbers and the local Aboriginal community. Be informed and respect closures. Clean up chalk and rethink adding additional new routes to crags with access issues. |
15
★ Crashing Poodles
This climbing area has recently become a focus spot for tension between climbers and the local Aboriginal community. Be informed and respect closures. Clean up chalk and rethink adding additional new routes to crags with access issues. |
14
★ Final Call
This climbing area has recently become a focus spot for tension between climbers and the local Aboriginal community. Be informed and respect closures. Clean up chalk and rethink adding additional new routes to crags with access issues. |
15
★ Dot The Dashund
Left side of the arete. |
13
★ Jesse Fetch
Right side of the arete. |
Hospital Rocks |
Steeper Wall
Walk past the Slabby Wall to the next little cliff. 1 minute. |
Hospital Rocks Steeper Wall |
22
★ McFlurry
This climbing area has recently become a focus spot for tension between climbers and the local Aboriginal community. Be informed and respect closures. Clean up chalk and rethink adding additional new routes to crags with access issues. |
22
★ Kwikgrip
This climbing area has recently become a focus spot for tension between climbers and the local Aboriginal community. Be informed and respect closures. Clean up chalk and rethink adding additional new routes to crags with access issues. |
23
★ Follow The Leader
This climbing area has recently become a focus spot for tension between climbers and the local Aboriginal community. Be informed and respect closures. Clean up chalk and rethink adding additional new routes to crags with access issues. |
18
★★ Bamboozled
Start RH edge of cave at bottom, working up flake, then traverse left above cave and over bulge. Then straightish up. |
16
★ Sword Swallowing Cum Junkies From Hell
Classic sand jug pulling. Start: Left of TG16 at line of rings. Almost shared start with Bamboozled, but straight up. I think it's also called 'Pasty Poofs', although the latter gets a bonus grade. |
17
★ Pasty Poofs
Line of rings going straight up left of TG16 and right of Bamboozled. Another name for Sword Swallowing Cum Junkies? |
16
★ TG16
All ring bolted classic |
17
★ Nimrod
This climbing area has recently become a focus spot for tension between climbers and the local Aboriginal community. Be informed and respect closures. Clean up chalk and rethink adding additional new routes to crags with access issues. |
17
★ The Grouch
This climbing area has recently become a focus spot for tension between climbers and the local Aboriginal community. Be informed and respect closures. Clean up chalk and rethink adding additional new routes to crags with access issues. |
11
★ Uncle Udfuddy
This climbing area has recently become a focus spot for tension between climbers and the local Aboriginal community. Be informed and respect closures. Clean up chalk and rethink adding additional new routes to crags with access issues. |
Hospital Rocks |
Boome Crag
A short intense orange wall, capped by an overhang to keep it dry. |
Hospital Rocks Boome Crag |
12
Barely a Climb
The short slab on the very left of the cliff. |
12
Carrot Bolted Slab
Start 2m right of BaC. Single carrot bolt to top out. |
V6
★★ Carrot Bolted Boulder Problem
Start 3m right of the corner. Light coloured wall with single carrot bolt. |
23
★ Barely Legal
First climb on the wall with stainless steel rings. |
24
★★ Boome Boome Boome
Start 2m right of BL. Great rock thin moves. |
25
★★ Bullen's Ballbags
Marked BB. Shares the same start as BBB but heads straight up. |
24
★ Atomic Boome
Start 4m right of BB. Was once graded 22 so may be a softy for its grade. Thin diagonal leading leftwards. |
21
★ Verminator
Central route up the main wall right of AB. |
20
★★ To Death
Start 1m right of V, just left of Messi Dog. The crag classic. Keep left of the bolts until transitioning at the 3rd to enjoy the cooler grade appropriate sequence and run of finger pockets. Route name changed at the request of the first ascensionist. |
18
★ To Death (RH variant)
RH Variant of 'To Death'. Start as for 'Messi Dog', straight up then moving right through the little cave, then straight up. Much easier moves than left of the bolts TD even with half the bomber hold being torn off near the 3rd bolt. |
19
★★ Messi Dog
Start at renamed 'To Death' (Previously LBD), then traverse diagonally right past little cave to Feckless Mutt anchors. |
19
Feckless Mutt
Start 3m right of LBD. Straight up to shared anchors with Messi Dog. Dramatic hands only start pulling on crack. |
21
Sock Chewing Slobber Dog
The right most route up the black slab. |
Hospital Rocks |
River Block
When you walk over the fence head down and right (instead of left to main area) and there is a tall butress visable. |
Hospital Rocks River Block |
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★★ Space Cowboy
Up flake to steep corner and ledge then launch up overhanging arête to lower offs. |
18
★ Dancing Buffalo Man
Up wall for a couple of moves then reachy span to arête. Up to ledge then cool head wall above. |
Project
This climbing area has recently become a focus spot for tension between climbers and the local Aboriginal community. Be informed and respect closures. Clean up chalk and rethink adding additional new routes to crags with access issues. |
Thompson's Point
The best crag in the region for both the variety of routes and the scenery. Generally excellent climbing with something for all climbers... roofs, walls and slabs. |
Thompson's Point |
Thompson's Sunrise
A separate, North-East facing area of Thompson's Point. Captures the morning sun well as it's namesake suggests, and is a warm Winter crag. Access is convenient via access gully's at either end of the cliff line, not far from ample car parking. The public lookout area above the 'Lookout Wall' also features a picnic table. |
Thompson's Point Thompson's Sunrise |
Lookout Wall
There is a private property boundary just meters past the East Access gully (in line with the East cliff face), do not stray past here. |
Thompson's Point Thompson's Sunrise Lookout Wall |
★ Project (Bargirra)
3RB's to 2RB anchor. Start: Aboriginal for 'Climb Quickly'. Start 2m right of the arête halfway down the 'Lookout' 'Access' 'Gully'. |
Pop
Left side of the block at the base of decent gully. |
13
Dweller in Darkness (Tolkien)
East of decent gully, on right arete of block tending left. Anchor placed a bit to far left. |
16
★★ Easy on Saturday morning
Just west of decent gully. Start at obvious large pocket. |
17
★★ Keep on Rising
4m right of EOSM and left of Offwidth. Stay on face, up to slight left then follow bolt line. |
20
★★ Leisure Suit Larry
Right of obvious offwidth and left of Melodrama. A powerful delicate move down low with the crux on finger holds up high through scoop. |
17
Melodrama
A little runout to start but then easy climbing. If you are feeling strong you can finish with a long hard move to pull up level with the anchors (add a couple of grades) or you can just clip the anchors from below. 2RB's to 2RB anchor. Start: Start 20m down and right (west) of the bottom of the 'Lookout' 'Access' 'Gully' on the rock shelf directly below the lookout and the well brushed streak. |
17
Drama Lama
Links 'No Drama' into 'Melodrama'. Start: Start as for 'No Drama' but veer left at the 1st RB and continue up 'Melodrama'. |
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No Drama
Delicate climbing with a thought provoking crux at mid height. 3RB's to 2RB anchor. |
18
★★ Flame of Anor
Left of BITS. Start up slight left of bolts before drifting right and powerful crux move. Interesting variations of moves through the block makes this an interesting climb. |
18
★ Blister In The Sun
A hard move up the initial face is followed by an interesting slab towards the top. Finish direct or chicken out and take the easy option by moving left. 6RB's to 2RB anchor. |
16
★ Rising Sun
Links the 1st half of 'The Furburger' into the 2nd half of 'Blister In The Sun'. |
14
★★ The Furburger
Climb the crack right of 'Blister In The Sun' and finish at the anchors of 'Something For Kate'. |
12
★ Something For Kate
A nice easy well protected climb for the beginners. The crux is getting established onto the wall just above the overlap at 1/3 height. 6RB's to 2RB anchor. |
Thompson's Point Thompson's Sunrise |
The Block Environs
There is a private property boundary just meters past the East Access gully (in line with the East cliff face), do not stray past here. |
Thompson's Point Thompson's Sunrise The Block Environs |
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★ Loose Lips Leeroy
Tricky start , then make you way up the wall, move left when you are above the rock scar. Final hard moves on exposed left nose, reach up high above the crack. 4RB's to 2RB anchor |
17
★ Burnum Burnum
3RB's to 2RB anchor. |
13
★ Great Warrior
As the name implies be prepared for a battle in order to overcome this imposing line. Start: Start as for 'Burnum Burnum' but move right and up after the 1st RB. |
14
★ A Fish Called Miltski
Climb the wide corner crack at the back of the gully just left of the obvious orange streaked wall. It may be wise to supplement the RB's with natural gear. |
11
The Gorignak
Easy lead for the kids and Old Folks. Took me two attempts! "It's a rock. It doesn't have any vulnerable spots!" JASON NESMITH (Galaxy Quest) |
18
★ The Edge
An unusual climb and well worth doing. After a hard start to get established traverse right along the front edge of the block before mantling to clip the anchors. 4RB's to 2RB anchor. |
18
★ Layback
Layback the right hand side arête of the block, mantle and finish at the anchors of the 'The Edge'. 3RB's to 2RB anchor. |
20
★ Loop
Climb 'Layback' but instead of mantling to finish , reverse climb 'The Edge'. To make up for not having to clip any anchors, to successfully tick this climb you must dismount the block and place both feet on the ground in an orderly fashion. Jumping off and rolling down the hill does not count. 7RB's. |
21
★★ Bilbo Baggins
Start on the undercut right hand side of the block. It's a very bouldery start to pull on and lunge out left to the flake. Be prepared to fall off. 3RB's to 2RB anchor |
Thompson's Point Thompson's Sunrise |
Balrog Wall
There is a private property boundary just meters past the East Access gully (in line with the East cliff face), do not stray past here. |
Thompson's Point Thompson's Sunrise Balrog Wall |
18
★★ Weapons Of Mass Destruction
Although not hard this climb has a couple of tricky sections that are not initially obvious and require some thought to overcome. At the 6th RB move left and find the hidden pocket around the arête which allows you to get through what appears to be an impossibly blank section. It's still not over as the last move to clip the anchors is no give away. 7RB's to 2RB anchor |
18
★ Old Timer's Disease
Start as for 'Weapons Of Mass Destruction' but after the 1st couple of moves once you can reach the block, traverse right before continuing up the wall. Though the rock on the bottom section is not great the climbing on the upper half is good and quite thought provoking. 7RB's to 2RB anchor. |
23
World Gone Mad
Start: Left hand end of cave. Hard start and keep cranking for the first three bolts till it eases to slab moves at top |
21
★ Wasp welts at one o'clock
Start: 3rd Climb from the right starts on blunt arete. Lots of jugs down low enjoy the rest at halfway, then suck it up for the techo slab at top |
20
★ Rule Brittania/Zorro
Start: Right hand end of cave, just left of 'The Balrog'. 'Steep' and juggy to start - can haul up face or do a little roof start on left. Followed by hard slab cruxes at top. Tough for the grade. |
20
★★ The Balrog
Good technical climbing with a couple of hard moves and a tricky slab finish. Note that 'The Balrog' and 'Shelob' use the same holds towards the finish. 6RB's to 2RB anchor. |
20
★★ Shelob
6RB's to 2RB anchor. |
Thompson's Point Thompson's Sunrise |
Isengard Buttress
There is a private property boundary just meters past the East Access gully (in line with the East cliff face), do not stray past here. |
Thompson's Point Thompson's Sunrise Isengard Buttress |
12
★★ Philosopher's Stone
Climb the face past 2RB's then traverse right along the ledge past 2RB's to the blunt arête, now up the chimney past RB. Step left across the void and up to anchors. 5RB's to 2RB anchor. Be careful not to climb too high in the chimney or you'll find yourself above the anchor. Start: Start in the middle of the small face on the left hand side of the buttress. |
18
★★ Isengard
Climb the left hand side of the arête past 3RB's before moving right onto the wall and then up. The rock at the start is average but the main wall is reminiscent of an easier version of 'Vanderholics'. 8RB's to 2RB anchor. Start: Start 3m right of 'Philosopher's Stone' just left of the arête. |
23
★ Isengard Direct
A direct start to 'Isengard'. Stick clip 1st RB. Start as for 'Super Creeps' but after the 1st RB move left and pull onto the face and past 3RBs before joining 'Isengard'. 8RB's to 2RB anchor. |
24
★ Super Creeps
Stick clip 1st RB. Climb the dubious looking steep rock which isn't as bad as it looks. After the 1st RB pull right onto the face and continue directly up. 8RB's to 2RB anchor. |
22
★ Drive-In Saturday
Start as for 'Forth Dimension' but traverse along the lower line of RB's to the arête. Place a long sling on the belay and 1st RB of 'Forth Dimension'. Continue up the arête past 2RB's before moving left to finish up 'Super Creeps'. 8RB's to 2RB anchor. |
17
★★ Forth Dimension
The climb starts on the ledge at the 2RB belay inside the cave on the right hand side of the buttress. However, its best to just belay from the ground, walk in along the ledge and place a long sling on the belay to avoid rope drag. Traverse left past the upper line of RB's to the arête. Continue up the crack before moving right onto the wall. 8RB's to 2RB anchor. |
Thompson's Point Thompson's Sunrise |
Orange Streak Wall
There is a private property boundary just meters past the East Access gully (in line with the East cliff face), do not stray past here. |
Thompson's Point Thompson's Sunrise Orange Streak Wall |
23
★ Stranglehold
7RB's to 2RB anchor. Start: Start in the cave just right of the orange streaked wall at the level of the 1st RB. |
21
Burpin McGlurkin
Climb the boulder at the bottom of the access gully. From the top of the boulder move left and pull onto the hanging arête. Traverse left past 3RBs then continue up. 6RB's to 2RB anchor. |
19
★ Smirkin & Lurkin
Start as for 'Burpin McGlurpin' but after pulling onto the hanging arête continue straight up before moving left to the big blob hold. Finish by running it out to the anchors. Some may feel a little nervous getting from the boulder onto the hanging arête as the 1st bolt does look a long way down … so take care. 5RB's to 2RB anchor. |
16
★ Gherkin The Merkin
Stick clip the first RB. A difficult but enjoyable introduction to the climb is followed by what appears to be a very difficult move. On closer examination however this is circumvented by the use of a manufactured pocket that looks like it was created with a jack hammer not sculptured with the precision of a 12mm drill bit. This 'Thank God Pocket' is actually all that is left of a misplaced bolt placement. If you do the climb by stemming back against the opposite wall to bypass any difficulties the grade is about 16. 5RB's to 2RB anchor. Start: Start 2m up the access gully. |
Thompson's Point |
Indian Wall
RESPECT ABORIGINAL CULTURAL HERITAGE CLOSURES - there are two closed areas at Thompson's Point containing art - The Mini Wall (under Cowboy Junkies) and the right side of The Pocketed Wall. Respect anyone who is visiting these areas - keep the noise down and give them space to appreciate these important sites. This is an evolving access issue so please keep informed via ACANSW website and Facebook group. NO CAMPING AT THIS CRAG PLEASE - including the two carparks or any cave at the crag. Council Rangers have been patrolling the area (2019) and telling campers it is not legal to camp here. Rubbish and unattended campfires are also a major trigger point for bad relations with land managers. Council has received complaints from the public and is forced to follow them up. Continued access to these areas is at stake. |
Thompson's Point Indian Wall |
21
★ Tomahawk
RESPECT ABORIGINAL CULTURAL HERITAGE CLOSURES - there are two closed areas at Thompson's Point containing art - The Mini Wall (under Cowboy Junkies) and the right side of The Pocketed Wall. Respect anyone who is visiting these areas - keep the noise down and give them space to appreciate these important sites. This is an evolving access issue so please keep informed via ACANSW website and Facebook group. NO CAMPING AT THIS CRAG PLEASE - including the two carparks or any cave at the crag. Council Rangers have been patrolling the area (2019) and telling campers it is not legal to camp here. Rubbish and unattended campfires are also a major trigger point for bad relations with land managers. Council has received complaints from the public and is forced to follow them up. Continued access to these areas is at stake. |
19
★ Dances With Sheep
A pleasant romp on good holds. Start: Start just left of the arete on teh left end of Indian wall. |
Project
Open project? Bolted arete. |
23
★ Don't Climb The Tee-Pee
RESPECT ABORIGINAL CULTURAL HERITAGE CLOSURES - there are two closed areas at Thompson's Point containing art - The Mini Wall (under Cowboy Junkies) and the right side of The Pocketed Wall. Respect anyone who is visiting these areas - keep the noise down and give them space to appreciate these important sites. This is an evolving access issue so please keep informed via ACANSW website and Facebook group. NO CAMPING AT THIS CRAG PLEASE - including the two carparks or any cave at the crag. Council Rangers have been patrolling the area (2019) and telling campers it is not legal to camp here. Rubbish and unattended campfires are also a major trigger point for bad relations with land managers. Council has received complaints from the public and is forced to follow them up. Continued access to these areas is at stake. |
23
★ Indian Head
Enjoyable climbing. Start: Start below the big cave. |
25
★ Chief Pocahontas
RESPECT ABORIGINAL CULTURAL HERITAGE CLOSURES - there are two closed areas at Thompson's Point containing art - The Mini Wall (under Cowboy Junkies) and the right side of The Pocketed Wall. Respect anyone who is visiting these areas - keep the noise down and give them space to appreciate these important sites. This is an evolving access issue so please keep informed via ACANSW website and Facebook group. NO CAMPING AT THIS CRAG PLEASE - including the two carparks or any cave at the crag. Council Rangers have been patrolling the area (2019) and telling campers it is not legal to camp here. Rubbish and unattended campfires are also a major trigger point for bad relations with land managers. Council has received complaints from the public and is forced to follow them up. Continued access to these areas is at stake. |
24
★ Chief Of Commitment
A hell of a desperate number - especially in summer! |
20
★ Geronimo/COC Link up
RESPECT ABORIGINAL CULTURAL HERITAGE CLOSURES - there are two closed areas at Thompson's Point containing art - The Mini Wall (under Cowboy Junkies) and the right side of The Pocketed Wall. Respect anyone who is visiting these areas - keep the noise down and give them space to appreciate these important sites. This is an evolving access issue so please keep informed via ACANSW website and Facebook group. NO CAMPING AT THIS CRAG PLEASE - including the two carparks or any cave at the crag. Council Rangers have been patrolling the area (2019) and telling campers it is not legal to camp here. Rubbish and unattended campfires are also a major trigger point for bad relations with land managers. Council has received complaints from the public and is forced to follow them up. Continued access to these areas is at stake. |
19
Geronimo
RESPECT ABORIGINAL CULTURAL HERITAGE CLOSURES - there are two closed areas at Thompson's Point containing art - The Mini Wall (under Cowboy Junkies) and the right side of The Pocketed Wall. Respect anyone who is visiting these areas - keep the noise down and give them space to appreciate these important sites. This is an evolving access issue so please keep informed via ACANSW website and Facebook group. NO CAMPING AT THIS CRAG PLEASE - including the two carparks or any cave at the crag. Council Rangers have been patrolling the area (2019) and telling campers it is not legal to camp here. Rubbish and unattended campfires are also a major trigger point for bad relations with land managers. Council has received complaints from the public and is forced to follow them up. Continued access to these areas is at stake. |
17
Little Big Horn
Starts on the left side of the descent gully. Up the orange ramp to the high first bolt. Good moves through the cave lead to an awkward and pumpy finish. |