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Orca Area

14

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Description

This area comprises about 3 walls, with Orca taking on the prominant arete right of the big roof. The mossy slab has some newly bolted routes that will improve with traffic.The slab to the right is quite good and should be quite popular.

Access issues inherited from Thompson's Point

RESPECT ABORIGINAL CULTURAL HERITAGE CLOSURES - there are two closed areas at Thompson's Point containing art - The Mini Wall (under Cowboy Junkies) and the right side of The Pocketed Wall. Respect anyone who is visiting these areas - keep the noise down and give them space to appreciate these important sites. This is an evolving access issue so please keep informed via ACANSW website and Facebook group.

NO CAMPING AT THIS CRAG PLEASE - including the two carparks or any cave at the crag. Council Rangers have been patrolling the area (2019) and telling campers it is not legal to camp here. Rubbish and unattended campfires are also a major trigger point for bad relations with land managers. Council has received complaints from the public and is forced to follow them up. Continued access to these areas is at stake.

Ethic inherited from Nowra

Mostly developed as a sport climbing and bouldering area. Some trad climbing exists, mainly the pure cracks. If developing new areas keep an eye and and ear out for Aboriginal cultural heritage, including cave art.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Inside corner crack, going left through carrot bolt beneath roof to anchor.

FA: Ant Prehn, 1991

Start as for Ceiling Your Fate though go right at the roof and through the anchor of Orca. All trad, avoid the temptation to clip bolts of Orca. In the roof theres a block with jugs on top, i chose to avoid this because of unknown rock quality, climbing the seam below this. Make your own assessment

FA: Max Gordon, 14 Jun 2020

Starts on left side of arête. Straight up to finish.

Optional friend no longer needed to protect start.

FA: Ant Prehn, Rod Young, Craig Paul & Trudy Bretherton, 1991

Start on the right side of arête, finish by traversing left to the shared anchors with 'Maddest Hatter'.

FA: Rod Young, 1999

FA: Trudy Bretherton & Giles Bradbury, 1990

Left line of rings up the lichen covered slab.

Right line of rings up the lichen covered slab. Left handside also available.

A top little route that deserves more attention, and takes on the obvious rounded arete. Finishes at single large U/staple.

FA: Paula Simons / Mark Ashmore

Up the wide crack, then right around small roof to ledge. Trad anchor then scramble off the top or walk carefully left to Lichen/Mossy Climb anchors. The middle is a bit runout without big cams (5+). If you do have big cams you could also try taking the crack through the roof, looks fun.

FA: Josephine Roper, 2020

Start: Start at the obvious cleft about 15m to the right of the Orca wall.

FA: Rod Young, 2005

Warning Rock: Loose block at the top

Enjoyable stroll, with a tricky start. Will be better with traffic.

Start: Start 2m right of the previous route.

FA: Rod Young, 2005

Traverse in for an easier route

FA: Rod Young, 2005

FA: Rod Young, 2005

Another good fun doddle.

Start: Start on the far right hand side of the wall.

FA: Rod Young, 2005

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Simon Carter, Carlie LeBreton, Rob LeBreton, Neil Monteith, Rod Young

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780994278449

The new Nowra guide is the most comprehensive guide to one of Australias largest sport climbing destinations. Coincidently it also includes New Nowra or Braidwood Park as it is now known which contains 650 routes in itself. With over 1500 routes all up it will be impossible to run out of projects to get yourself spanked on ever again.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Mon 12 Jun
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