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Wallaby Rocks Mostly Bouldering 18 routes in crag

18
BLDV
V0V0+V1V2V3V4

Seasonality

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Summary

Worth a trip just for the highball sentinel boulder

Description

A mixed bag of tumbled granite with a few gems

Access issues

Crown land, should be no access issues, avoid crossing the western boundary onto farm land.

Approach

From the Matilda's BP service station at Uralla, drive west on East street which becomes Kingston Road for 3km until you cross the bridge over Kentucky creek. The boulder field is obvious on the left with the Sentinel boulder clearly enticing you. Park after the bridge on the north side just down Wallaby Rocks road.

History

History timeline chart

It seems like everyone has scouted this for years, and it probably has seen some sends before. Recorded history kicked off in Apr 2016

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Contents

Routes

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Grade Route

Approach boulders Back to contents

Just after you jump the fence you can head directly towards the sentinel, or head right up the hill to these couple boulders

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2
proj 1 Boulder
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3
proj 2 Boulder
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4
proj 3 Boulder 4m

Under the sentinel Back to contents

Directly east under the sentinel, as you approach veer left and down to a lower teir.

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6
V0 ★ Will squash daboosh Boulder 3m

Good warmup layback crack

FA: Ben Vincent, 10 Apr 2016

7
V2 ★ From the depths within Boulder 4m

Start back deep inside, hand and body jam through roof and out

FA: Carol Lee, 10 Apr 2016

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8
V1 Pinoclean Boulder 3m

Thin slab

FA: Carol Lee, 10 Apr 2016

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9
V1 ★★ Magic Pocket Boulder 4m

Start on good pocket and up

FA: Carol Lee, 10 Apr 2016

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10
V4 ★★ Compression bandage Boulder 5m

Sit start on smooth tooth, slap up arete

FA: Brendan Heywood, 10 Apr 2016

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proj 7 Boulder
12
V1 ★★★ Poise, Elegance & Grace Boulder 5m

Perfect layback into 'interesting' topout

FA: Ben Vincent, 10 Apr 2016

13
V4 ★★ Ugly Avocado Monster Boulder 4m

Thin crimpers on the face set you up for a dead point move to the obvious sloper. Jam/layback your way out.

FA: Ben Vincent, 10 Apr 2016

14
Will's project Boulder 3m
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15
V0 ★ Along the crack like an aristocrat Boulder 4m

Traverse along high easier crack

FA: George Plunkett, 10 Apr 2016

16
V1 ★ Down low like a hobo Boulder 5m

Slappy undercling traverse

FA: Ben Vincent, 10 Apr 2016

The Sentinel Back to contents

The most obvious feature visible from the road, a quite tall free standing boulder in the middle of the jumble. Most other features will be described relative to this land mark.

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18
V2 ★★★ Possum Magic Boulder 6m

A high ball crack on the NW face of the center piece. Down climb retreat.

FA: Ben Vincent, 10 Apr 2016

19
Fallen sentinel Boulder 5m

Sloper traverse

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20
Centerpoint tower Trad 10m

A quite thin crack on the south side of the centerpeice

The back block Back to contents

About 40m south of the Sentinel facing north, with a striking arete on the left

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face project Boulder

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★★★ Possum Magic V2 - Possum magic

★★★ Possum Magic V2 - Possum Magic

Sun 28 May
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