Ascents in Brisbane as Hang dog

recce mish, think with a dry morning she will go

Quite high first bolt, which we couldn’t reach to stick clip, Otherwise some interesting moves but also bulgey and ledgey throughout

couple if sits and falls, very doable

Some progress on the proper direct starting moves, also finally went direct past the bolt rather than using the jugs out to left under the overhang.

Couldn't make the crux move without resting on the rope. 😕

Just having fun. Above my pay grade. Top crux is tough.

In progress

Wages demanded blood tribute today, I'm missing a lot of skin which started separating while in the first finger lock after the first bolt... Good prompt to try a left hand side pull move up which also works well and doesn't demand skin.

Took an unsuspecting whip just below the chains. Next time for sure..

Few burns on TRS. Feels cruisy. Frustrating couple of slips on my 2 send goes after dialling beta. Figured out much more stable beta that’ll go easily. Nothing feels particularly cruxy but no clue how it’d go having to clip draws. Fighting the urge to dog & downgrade but I’ll save that for the redpoint.

Finally pulled the lower crux, sorted clipping beta for the upper.

Jumped on the route cause it looked really well bolted and was keen for something chill. Good time working the beta and enjoying the moves on the way up. Pulled over the top onto the slab and was greeted with a nice shiny bail biner in my face. “Aha!” I thought. Some chump couldn’t handle the smoke and now I reap the rewards. I snatched it eagerly. I then spent the next 15 minutes yoyoing up and down the start of the slab nervously looking up at the blank wall it’s a distinct lack of bolts. Eventually someone wanders over to tell up to me that the anchors are just over the lip and while it’s runout it’s pretty easy. Now I have to do it. I’m better then red biner bailer I tell myself. I head up and I’m pleased to find it’s pretty easy. I get a bit higher. Bit harder now, I start to look at the last bolt nervously. Higher still, now I’m in the shadow of the spotlights. I take a shaking hand off a sweaty smear to turn my head torch brighter. It flashes angrily at me, no dice. I can’t even see my belayer anymore. I’m climbing in a faint bubble of light, I could be 3m runout or I could be 30, either way I’m convinced I’ll die if I fall. The holds slowly get worse - retreat is no longer an option. I’m at the event horizon. My mind goes blank. Suddenly a carat bolt appears in front of my eyes. I shakily grab an extender off my harness and limply sling it over the metal. Only half the sling bites in. I know any slight gust of wind will pull it off. I look ahead over the lip and see the anchors almost within reach. One hard move separates me from safety. I take a deep breath…. … … Right foot up. Smear reminiscent of dawn wall foothold. Right hand up. Left hand up. I yell down to my belayer to stop spinning the twister wheel so fast. I blow the dust off the sloped that I’m clinging to and promise myself that if I get out of this alive I’ll take up a safer sport like ice climbing or perhaps wingsuit base jumping. With shaking legs I pull over the lip, frantically grab a draw from my harness and clip the anchors.

Great route would recommend. Probably go next time. Bit spooky at the top but worth it! Maybe a bit soft for 22, could be 21.

dont know what happened here, just couldnt hold onto the final sloper to reach for the jug, took a fall like 5 times and still couldn't. ohh well can't win em all

Fun climb

Had a bit of assistance at the crux from belayer