Routes in Queensland for selected grade

Climb TFVOM to the off width of RP then blast straight back right into a thin pebble belt. Next is a huge dyno then some blankness going right. At this point it could keep going towards pebble or straight up to anchor right of RP. Hard to know at this point. Bloody hard

Start up the bolts to the right of Reverse Psychology. Linking into RP after the 4th bolt following thin seam. Hard!!!

Climbs the smooth wall straight above Fruit Bat.

Even better than the original line!! The direct start of Kneebar. Extremely bouldery and powerful compression climbing which will make you beg for mercy!

Go from UFO all the way through to bring back the kneebar. Insane bouldering.

Mat Eaton's futuristic Line. One of the king lines of Coolum; it follows the line of ring bolts then climbs into the cave to the lower off anchors.

Start with the boulder problem of Evil. After the hard clip go left across a series of bulges. After some intricate betas and a few kneebars, you link into Esoteric Agenda under the top crux. Finish as per EA.

Epic power endurance test piece. One of the purest pieces of climbing in QLD for chur.

Start up Thiller, climb across to 'Bite The Hand That Feeds' and to the chains.

Up Thriller till the second last bolt and then step right into friction addictions hard ending. Super pumpy classic.

Was previously known as 'Motor Finance Wizard project'. Start up Thriller boulder, but instead of cutting left into Evil at the ledge, head right and up the blankish face. Huge throws on slopey holds guard the crux. The top is exciting and ever so pumpy.

4m R of Evil Wears No Pants. Futuristic. Two hard boulder problems to classic upper wall. Finishes at anchor on right shared with Gladiator.

Start-up Gladiator, after the crux, climb leftwards on to Taking Care of Business variation, at last jug enjoy a hard low traverse left into the crimpy ending Friction Addiction. This route is fantastic with a great mix of climbing and is a classic link-up well worth doing.

Good start hold, up to thin crimps, ooze up to arete and then top.

http://vimeo.com/19953904

Sit start and up very thin crimps on near vertical wall

Regrade proj due to holds exploding.

Super crimper! Start right hand and heel on the sandy flake and left hand on the good crimp. Punch your way up through some bad crimps and spring into a glory jug to finish. Please don’t brush the sandy right start self to much it needs to be sealed. it’s endlessly sandy and with out it the problem may be impossible. Update: An attempt has been made to preserve the flake, as it was crumbling a little more with every attempt.

Corey Batten

super hard route made harder by the height, start on crimps just over lip of rooflet, hard move moving onto headwall, followed by some serious crimping.

Start as for dreadnaught 2 hands in the undercling with feet on the rock below and then dyno straight out to the big jug then mantle from it and finish as for dreadnaught.

Seems like you’d have to hit it with both hands at once to hold it. BRING MATS AND SPOTTERS *is a contrived route

start sitting down with your right hand in pocket and left on the little crimp on the outside left of the pocket. blast up leftwards, slopey madness, fantastic.

Corey Batten

rubbish rock down low. Be gentle with the start hold, if it breaks the climb will be totally different. hard to grade this one feels easy sometimes, absolutely impossible other times.

Note: the FA was done doing the final dead point with feet up on starting hand holds (not from the bottom band of rock on the ground) it may or may not be possible from the low feet and may or may not change the grade.

And on the sixth day Bo created this line. Start in a casual laying down position with hands on the left and right crimp rails. do not start matched on the left crimp as it takes a grade or two off. bring plenty of skin

Absolute cracker of a one move wonder. Start on incut edge in middle of wall. Do a big move to good edge, match, then finish up an easy mantle (as for 'Kiss the Witness'). Definitely harder for those challenged in the ways of the span.

This climb has a confusing history which had an original description of '??' . General consensus is to start at "Bulge" and traverse left with hands going up over the lip at "The Rick White Problem", then back down at "The Plum". Ends with mantling and topping out as per "Gaston". A power-endurance test-piece

Start under the huge bulge and make a long move to a decent hueco, supporting crimps will get you in to position for the tiny face crimp over the bulge, from there make a huge move to a decent crimp on the face and continue crimping powerfully until victory jugs await you.

Sit-start on barely there holds, moving left into mono's and finish on jug below ferns.

Start in a sit start- with the obvious large side pull and bust some incredibley powerful moves that lack footholds into No Mans Land.

Start as for Red Hood's Revenge, climbing into the reverse of Bane to exit the cave and blast up and right to finish as for Electric Bat Mobile. An undoubtably worthy villain for the Bat

Start sitting, then move up the crack before moving right on some small edges to get to the lip. Be careful mantling out.

Start in obvious low pocket, head up and right past sloper and finish just left of times up.

Rad sit-start on block under roof to small undercling, then punch to cool looking flake. Sooo bloody awesome and burly. Make sure you have a fair few pads.

Used to be the Jango fett project, but our authenticity checks clarified that Jango was never actually on tatooine we think. Unless he went there on a holiday at some point, but seriously who would go to mos eisley for a holiday, so it's kind of unlikely.

An amazing, proud, inspirational line. The thinnest of cracks bisects this imposing face. Even the ants at Frog fall off this thin face! There was some controversy over the decidedly French style of the FFA, but no one can question the talent and skill required to ascend such an amazing line. Bolts and small wires can be found.

Mega extension of 'Event Horizon'. After the last draw of 'Event Horizon' head right across cheese blocks and then continue right and then up the compact head wall.

Climb Plumbus and keep trucking left into the hard end crux of astrobatics.

The original start to Desperado!

Start up Terminus for 4 bolts then head left and grab the Dinglebop then reach up and put your fingers into the Krumbo. Once through the boulder chalk up with a bunch of Shleem as you are now on Desperado and still have a fair bit of climbing to go. Now power all the way to the top making sure to find the rests as your Fleeb juice will be pumping! Continue to the anchors and be a master of the Plumbus.

Same as for Crooks and Castles, except starting from the lowest under cling possible.

Un-climbed open project. FH on the main face lead the way up a slightly over hanging, blank looking face, following a faint seam feature. No DBB.

Start on poor rail then big move up to slot, then to victory jug.

Start as for 'The Big Zee', then head right and up on crimps and slopers. It's excellent. Fingery and powerful. Beta video https://vimeo.com/42103468

Hard bouldery sit start on pinches, traversing right and up into '$53'.

The rippled face, on the left, medium sized bloc. Sit start with sidepull RH and LH on bad crimp. Punchy moves up the face and left arete. Slab to the left is out and watch those awkward landings.

Starting on good horizontal rail

The extension to "Kendra's Roof", continuing past the mushroom via a roof crux and then up a desperate slab above the terrifying drop away landing.

Squat start on slopey edge and pinch, head up and left to a tricky lip encounter.

Start under roof to the right of the seam on an undercling and low left facing edge. Join the crack via a big lock off move and finish as for Bodega.

Sit start on jug, move right through thin seam before doing a big move to arete. Hold the barn door and mosey to the top.

Sit-start just right of "Globalisation Left" on the low edge. One of Harvey's hardest problems. See the original guidebook for the starting holds.

An outstanding hard line.

Townsville's first 5.14! The king reigns supreme.

Next level effort! The extension to Transcontinental, climb that route and keep cranking.