Routes in Australia for selected grade

'L'Homme Obu' standing start from the big break on If The Shoe Fits. Power out to the LH pocket and finish up Rocket Pants.

Oliver Chen

4m R of Evil Wears No Pants. Futuristic. Two hard boulder problems to classic upper wall. Finishes at anchor on right shared with Gladiator.

Far right cave problem. Can be done in a number of different ways including a crazy dyno that could potentially send you rolling down to a rocky but somewhat refreshing swim in the ocean.

Mattias Braach-Maksvytis | Oliver Chen

Gorgeous and impossible looking line. Absolute world-class classic. Batman on fix rope to start DUB anchor. Stout start at finger lock in horizontal break below anchor, progress steep terrain on pinkie locks, flairy hand jam, pinch, etc to double crimp. Enter wild crux through 60deg overhang with four consecutive finger locks, crimp, pocket, small dynos, etc to uncomfortable rest in break. From there it's easy gr26 but so good to under roof. Climb easy but very exposed roof to tricky exit gr23. Walk off with a smile. Cleaning is best by climbing it again to DUB anchor under roof, clean roof and lower from anchor clean gear to start anchor.

Please be careful with cams, although the rock is solid enough and immaculate for fingers , cams could damage this gem particularly in the crux section. Don't use cams in the finger locks, protect crux in crack above crimps and run it out. Protection is great in smaller sizes where fingers wont fit.

Big move to small edge, then big move to jug

Start: From low horizontal

Start up Sunshine then bust left under Plastic Exploding, traverse left and up and finish at the anchors of Spermies.

Even better than the original line!! The direct start of Kneebar. Extremely bouldery and powerful compression climbing which will make you beg for mercy!

Mat Eaton's futuristic Line. One of the king lines of Coolum; it follows the line of ring bolts then climbs into the cave to the lower off anchors.

Start as for Microwave, head steadily left across Point Break and Tugboat and finish as for Tsunami (not Tugboat). Monique

Steve's first route bolted and his last ticked in the area. The only route in this sector without an irritating batman start, but you still have to stick clip. Start up the log near the end of the hand rail. Like the sign says, please don't belay in the bushes (belaying on the track is fine if you step left). Jack Masel Rick

Sit start/crouched on slopey edges and up pinching up the arete.

The easiest line up a great, albeit only mildly overhanging wall. Probably the world's first 8b+ / 5.14a and ahead of its time in Australian terms - it took nearly ten years before an Aussie (Stuart Wyithe) repeated it!

Despite masses of beta available on the internet, it still sees very few quick ascents, hasn't been onsighted and is still regarded as somewhat of a testpiece with a redpoint crux far above the technical crux and accounting for many an accomplished climber.

Many argue the route is easier than when Wolfgang and Stefan Glowacz did it in the mid 80's due to the increased size of the crux glue hold (the notorious birdbath). For a while considered "only" 31, it seems to have re-consolidated at 32.

Start as for Punks in the Gunks. At its traverse, instead go up, L and up, up, up to chains at the top.

Mayan

Good start hold, up to thin crimps, ooze up to arete and then top.

http://vimeo.com/19953904

5m L of X-Men up obscene steepness. Just awesome.

Start on obvious jugs in the small cave, huge move to slot and up.

mattias braach-maksvytis Chris Beers

Start on the big break then LH cross-over to pocket and bust RH to break. Match and then long move with RH to gaston the slot, LH up to the 3 finger pocket and jump around the bulge, control the swing and finish matched on the jug just up and right. Australia's first V10 and still the benchmark.

Start of the underclings and make some bizarre contortions (including doing a full 180 degree spin) through the roof. Probably one of the coolest and most unique problems in Sydney.

Travis B

Rob

Stand start matched on low rail then climb up and top out.

Bevan Ashby

Classic testpiece with superb hard climbing. Start 6m R of TWoAF. A bolt plate is handy to prevent rope burn if you miss the start dyno. Jump start leads to hard moves through the roof. Prep your belayer and/or use a roller biner, hard catches off the roof crux end badly. Move R at the lip of the roof into much pumpiness beyond. A broken hold at the 3rd bolt has been rectified.

Start with the boulder problem of Evil. After the hard clip go left across a series of bulges. After some intricate betas and a few kneebars, you link into Esoteric Agenda under the top crux. Finish as per EA.

Epic power endurance test piece. One of the purest pieces of climbing in QLD for chur.

Same start as Tyler Durden then head left and up via slot and break to finish up on sloper break.

Travis B. Ian Millar

Popular. Sit start on good flakes at the lowest part of the roof and climb the line of flakes, pinches and edges all the way out to cruxy moves at the lip. Finish at the big jug on the face or top out.

An amazing, proud, inspirational line. The thinnest of cracks bisects this imposing face. Even the ants at Frog fall off this thin face! There was some controversy over the decidedly French style of the FFA, but no one can question the talent and skill required to ascend such an amazing line. Bolts and small wires can be found.

Another early classic. Enjoy. A few long draws will be handy.

Start on the big hold. Often wet.

Dylan Soin

Has a very sordid history, as holds and grades have come and gone. Start under the obvious blank arete, just right of 'Junket Pumper'.

Jack_Masel | Jake Bresenhan

Rad sit-start on block under roof to small undercling, then punch to cool looking flake. Sooo bloody awesome and burly. Make sure you have a fair few pads.

Used to be the Jango fett project, but our authenticity checks clarified that Jango was never actually on tatooine we think. Unless he went there on a holiday at some point, but seriously who would go to mos eisley for a holiday, so it's kind of unlikely.

Straight up the front side of the boulder just before the end of Phone Sex. Sit start to big jug, heal hook and big chuck to crimp out left. pull hard to the high gaston and up.

Sit start the steep crack. A test piece for well 'ard crack climbers. You can try and layback/undercling this, but if you aren't Arnie or can't jam you're likely to fail. Eat your wheaties.

King line of Cohiba. Follow the crack through the roof and up the slab to finish. Hopefully you have the perfect hand size.

Dane Evans | David Cook

Sit start on slopey crimp. Move straight up via sharp LH crimp to top on slopers.

Oliver Chen Tyrone Clements

From good double underclings punch up to the sloper rail and finish as for Anger Management.

The original start to Desperado!

Start up Terminus for 4 bolts then head left and grab the Dinglebop then reach up and put your fingers into the Krumbo. Once through the boulder chalk up with a bunch of Shleem as you are now on Desperado and still have a fair bit of climbing to go. Now power all the way to the top making sure to find the rests as your Fleeb juice will be pumping! Continue to the anchors and be a master of the Plumbus.

The best bits of White Ladder. Historic, the first 32 climbed in Australia by an Australian.

Daniel Fisher

Rose Weller

Sit start and up very thin crimps on near vertical wall

Regrade proj due to holds exploding.

Start as for 'Apfenschaukel', but head right through a big gaston move. 2nd ascent was quickly made by Toni Lamprecht in about 5 minutes!

Very short power route mainly on underclings ending at the padlocked chain. Given 30 by Matt it was downgraded by Stuart Williams on the 2nd ascent to 29. Now a V10 boulder problem.

This climb has a confusing history which had an original description of '??' . General consensus is to start at "Bulge" and traverse left with hands going up over the lip at "The Rick White Problem", then back down at "The Plum". Ends with mantling and topping out as per "Gaston". A power-endurance test-piece

Stand Start. Start on the black rock a few metres in from the lip on the left side of the cave, at a bit of a ridge 2 metres from the very back. Use Gaston like sloper and right hand pinch with feet in roof. Climb out into Fire in the Hole and top out the same. Originally V10 turned V8 and back up to around V9 after two holds broke.

Start-up Gladiator, after the crux, climb leftwards on to Taking Care of Business variation, at last jug enjoy a hard low traverse left into the crimpy ending Friction Addiction. This route is fantastic with a great mix of climbing and is a classic link-up well worth doing.

Sit start to Travis starting from a matched crimpy undercling under the roof (same as for 'Re-Detonated').

Travis B.

Supposed to be the easier variant to Mr Tickle, some people lacking adequate forearm fitness actually find it to be harder. Start as for Mr Tickle but traverse left and finish up Hairline.

Tough move up to sidepull, then to mono and "better" holds, then up slab.

Sam Healy

3m L of Microwave. Independent climbing to halfway then join Microwave just below its flake.

A real hidden classic.

Sit start under the steep wall on the right side, at the big undercling.

Head up following some slopey ledges, then swing across to left side of bloc, tricky tension moves guard the finish up then onto the arete. Highly recommended to scrub the top, as this bloc doesn’t get much sun.

Start on the chalked up jugs, traverse left to pockets out and through the middle of roof to finish above the start.

Mattias Braach-Maksvytis Aurel Gelot

Whilst made to look easy by some, this climb can be bicep destroying. Bring out your big guns.

Sit start under roof, progressing directly up through pockety edges and using the undercling with your left hand to do a powerful move directly up to rail.

Any other sequence not involving left hand on the undercling is one of the Steve Austin Variants.

L0, R3, L4, R5, M5

Hard press move made slightly easier by starting using small foothold high and left the start hold. Just keep reaching. Looks unfeasible but works.

Same as Penis Cling, but starting with right hand on the undercling to the right of the left undercling.

🚫 Originally done as a 'no heels' problem.

Peter

Low start in cave. Big moves lead to finish jug above boulder. The extension is V7 on its own.

Mega. Stand start in the pit down right as for Day of the Ape. Up left as for DOTA to gaston on HD. Epic shoulder press down into start of straining rail finishing via whichever of its variants pick your fancy. Quite a few tough moves in a row. Worth extending left for the full experience.

As for Rocket Man but right hand big move and top out left.

Probably the best route of its grade in Sydney! Start right of Stringybark on little shelf left of the corner. crux at start using a undercling then climb through a variety of holds to a hard drive-by moving rightwards and then up into the back-breaking press into the roof and a quick campus through to top-out glory.

Start as for 'Collision Course' but after you gain the large rail continue right across some slopers to finish up 'Not Drowning, Waving'.

Absolute cracker of a one move wonder. Start on incut edge in middle of wall. Do a big move to good edge, match, then finish up an easy mantle (as for 'Kiss the Witness'). Definitely harder for those challenged in the ways of the span.

Finally freed but still popular as an aid climb, hence double bolts at the top of the wall. The impressive overhanging crack on the valley side. Up the crack to the fork and take the right-hand crack to the top. Also popular as a commercial abseiling site.

Some think it might be 30..

Sit start left of the arete on a sloping break. Hard moves leading left before moving up to a high and commiting finish.

Start from the crimpy underclings (as for 'Spooged') and link into 'Hands Off My Detonator'

Travis B

Dylan Soin

Beware the monster. When you find it you’ll know. All time, hard and a bit terrifying. Roof to hard moves to gain the flake and amazing arete. Be careful up high.

3 incredibly powerful moves. A poxy route - or a great boulder problem? Was briefly the hardest route in the country at grade 33. Now considered to be a V10 boulder problem on a rope.

Route name changed at the request of the first ascentionist.

Adds a low start to "All the tables are reversed in my private universe". Start at the very back of the cave and make a big move to the start jug of "tables" and finish as per the v10.

Chris Beers

Roman Rosen

Start up Thiller, climb across to 'Bite The Hand That Feeds' and to the chains.

Previously a long-standing open project prior to Klem's arrival. Originally graded 11, with some people thinking it's still not far off that.

Start 3m right of Kitten Mittens behind the large rock at cliff base. Head up and left to join the last few bolts of Tiger Cat.

The left arete of the cave, start low with right hand on undercling sloper and left hand on the broken hold. Left hand starting hold broke sometime in 2016. Still sits at V10. Follow the hanging arete and finish on the flat jug. A hard topout may be possible.

Sit start on the good edge. Head up and left via edges, pockets and a hard throw to a sloper. Top out left. (Originally graded V11, but the FA missed some beta).

Travis B. (FA)

Emmanuel Madayag

Mattias Braach-Maksvytis

Start low in the hole on two crimps and head rightwards on relatively easy ground to a powerful finale on small crimps to the lip.

Batman start.

Start: Route 60m to the left of 'Dr Foopsickle'.

Was previously known as 'Motor Finance Wizard project'. Start up Thriller boulder, but instead of cutting left into Evil at the ledge, head right and up the blankish face. Huge throws on slopey holds guard the crux. The top is exciting and ever so pumpy.

Start sitting, then move up the crack before moving right on some small edges to get to the lip. Be careful mantling out.

Start 5m R of Bloodline. Phenomenal. It's the route with the obvious double pockets above the roof. 32 in the latest guide; but consensus seems to be about 31.

Life Changes but starting as for Sushi Train. LC originally started as for Abacus.

Remarkably sustained face on thinner and thinner holds. If you fall off the slab you'll be in good company.

Start as for "Wackford Squeers".

Start as for Mr Knox. Follow the obvious line of good holds out of the cave and head right via big moves to the arete. Continue up the right-hand arete to top out.

Sit-start on barely there holds, moving left into mono's and finish on jug below ferns.

The direct version of 'Zac's Arete' heading up some minging crimps and poor feet out to the arete.

Start: Start 4m R of JC. Powerful, bouldery with a few tricks to be found

A great present from the Toni and Klem road trip of '99. Very committing, desperate and good. Pad out the landing well as falling from the top out would be very ugly.

Two cruxy bouldery moves to start then eases considerably. Stuart Wyithe originally bolted this thinking it was only going to be grade 26!

Start: Starts 2m right of 'Naughty Tickle Town'.

A crag classic. Originally bolted and chipped by Kim Carrigan, this was the first route after Giles' Hairline 2000 to be climbed. The climbing on this landmark route is typical of the Blue Mountains. (Chipping is by no means a theme of the crag and is actually limited to this route. This route gives no justification for further manufacturing here or anywhere else in the Blue Mountains.)

Garth

Relatively easy climbing to a desperate boulder problem crux (~V9). Most of the recent ascentionists use a different (easier) crux sequence to the original ascentionists and the grade might be coming down soon.

Start matched on the low hueco jug. Climb the steep orange/grey prow using the arete or directly up orange cove. Top out on jugs and slab.

Sit start as for Power Up, then make hard moves right into to the start holds of Muy Forte and finish up that climb.

CMCC

Go from UFO all the way through to bring back the kneebar. Insane bouldering.

Right sloper, left friction, then dyno? to massive jug

Same as for Crooks and Castles, except starting from the lowest under cling possible.

Fantastic rock and sustained. 12 bolts on the white wall.

Sit-start with right hand on small scallopy undercling (SGF low start hold) and an edgy pinch with the other. Punch up with your left to a hold on the lip then as per SGF from the undercling and then to the top. A very hard one mover. Crouch start goes about V5/6 and is worthy of your time.

Very bouldery crux section involving a long series of painful pockets.

Start: Ringbolted route 3m right of 'Chinese Water Torture'. Establish in 2001, an ascent by German hardman Andy Hofman grade 8a - 8c as not sure on Aussie grades! Recent ascentionists suggest 32 after repeated attemps by some very strong climbers.

A.K.A. Lover's Tiff Direct. Go straight out the roof from the start jug and link into the end of Lover's Tiff. Morpho as anything. Edit: New beta seems to make this V10ish.

Mattias Braach Maksvytis

Start left hand in corner and right on a sloper. Climb the arete to the slope at the top of it. Traverse right utilising edges, slopes and a big undercling, to a ramp. Mantle to some good holds near the break.

Damien Alexander

Tyrone Clements

Sit start at left of cave. Head out to the face and head up and left to top out as for Joe's Traverse. Formerly known as the "Unnamed Jannali 10"

Alex Ling

The very slopey bulge, head up and right.

The obvious sit start to Muy Forte. Start with left hand on flake and right hand around arete. Slap and heel hook up the right side of the boulder finishing directly as for Muy Forte.

2 metres right of PP. Start on a good edge and an undercling (to the left of the small rock). Move powerfully out the roof left of the crack, and then bodly up the airy headwall trending left.

mattias braach-maksvytis

Links 'Stargate' into 'I Want To Be A Pumper'.