Routes in Australia for selected grade

Starts on juggy flake left of ATASTA and uses left blocky gaston to press into dihedral - finish as for ATASTA

Pooferator into Truckstop into Horseshoe into Fabricator.

Direct finish to Touch and Go - a total one move wonder. An old open project sent by Chris Webb. Anchor is one good ringbolt and one old dynabolt.

The left hand line in this feisty little cave. Campus the start and thrutch up to the single U-bolt anchor. Good times.

Start: up levitation then move leftwards into search and destroy, eliminates the batman start to SAD and is the BEST/ONLY way to climb this route!!!

The chalk at the start says 32, but the guidebook says 33. Batman start. Use rollers/extenders and skip the 5th or 6th bolt, so that rope drag doesn't make the crux easier!

Was Vince's project, eventually sent by Tom O'Halloran. Jump start off the boulder and then up up and away forever, topping the cliff to finish. Vince climbed it to the first anchors above the lip and called that Spacecake (30).

Oz's first 34! Since relegated to a tame 33. A 6m direct variant of Tripe, squeezed in between Don't Believe and Tripe. Ben Tom Jake

Tom O’Halloran

Sage G.

Tom O’Halloran

As for Brain Haemorrhage for about 12m, then trend L up the biggest baddest steepest part of this sector, finishing a couple of metres R of Bloodline. Going left into Bloodline is not on route. Do not climb into Bloodline at all.

Start off the pile of rocks above the ledge, 15m L of Chimp Chowder. Boulder problem start, to rightward traverse, then radical wall of exciting gymnastic moves lead to a feisty finish, classic!

Sit start and up the left side of the steep wall to finish on high jugs.

Stand start with left hand pocket and right hand side pull and head out and up. Sit start is still a project.

Stand start from boulder and lean left to start holds then straight up.

Sit start and straight up.

Sit start. Make a couple of moves up as for the V10 before breaking left, topping into the big water jug hueco/ pot plant.

Sit start from edges and make a long hard move up right. V1 from stand.

Sit start and head left past big moves to the arete then around to jugs to finish.

Extension to Tufa Line. Starting on the right side of the boulder, traverse left and into the start holds of Tufa Line. R. Hofmann

Sit start as for Tufa Line but facing the opposite direction, climb up and right via sidepull crimps and pinches to committing top out via slopey horns at highest point of boulder

Sit start. Throw to a rail from some poor incuts praying for footers now that one of the epoxied holds has disappeared. Cruxes - getting from the sit to the good holds, and executing a gaston out left and continuing left and around, topping out on big holds as for the V5. Likely not possible after the good hold to throw off has broken.

An extension to Saint Christopher, almost 180 degrees around the circle from Slapsickle.

Start right hand in good jug in break, traverse into Fundamental.

Stephen Waring

Sit start then climb up and top out. No stacking pads for SS.

Bevan Ashby

Left side of the large face at the top of the crag, one of the first boulders if approaching from the top. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QTyUKfN2aVE

Start for Vendetta, then drop down into the underclings, make some hard moves through underclings and slopers finishing out the top of the boulder (as for Vendetta or the Joker).

CMCC

Start as for Phone Sex and finish through Shape Shifters.

Sit start on high crimps and follow line of small crimps to the top.

Squat start on good side pulls and up burly compression on small holds. Super sick

Emmanuel Madayag (FA)

Top out - adds a massive move off bad feet to the slopey lip and a sketchy top out. Adds at least a grade or two... Make your you have some spotters for this one!

Sit start on the good right hand ledge and small left hand crimp with a right heel hook. Squeeze your way up the bulge and trend right to the horizontal break, then finish as for 'Stand Alone'. Avoid transitioning into 'Stand Alone' before the horizontal break. https://vimeo.com/177325958

Sit start with left hand jug and right hand low side pull. Hard burly compression sequence into the stand.

https://www.instagram.com/p/ByUBgfAjWjH/

https://youtu.be/4K0QTDkKRSI

Sit start in the low left hand scoops. Strenuous moves through the scoops and up to the sloper rail. Big finishing move from a good edge to the top. Classic!

https://youtu.be/5B1NWxgTYmg

Start on right side-pull and left arete. Slap up aretes to top. https://vimeo.com/28654297

The right hand arete. https://vimeo.com/28654297

Still a proj?

Sit start left arete as for 'Smooth Jazz, sit start', up to the start jug of Mr Bump, then link right to V-Juice(Stand) holds and finish as for 'Finger Hooks'.

Surprising and technical beta, Powerful and hard, and has been linked in two overlapping segments. Power endurance beast

Sit start as for ‘Smooth Jazz, sit start’, link right via the start of ‘Mr Bump’ to finish as for ‘V-Juice’. Heart breaker finish throw. Bit of a participant award for the full link…

Sit start on obvious rail on left. Traverse right with long shouldery moves on crimps. Finish with a tricky slab top out. Located between 'Man in the Middle' and 'Steel City Groove'.

https://vimeo.com/339737416

Follow the crack starting right in the cave. Powerful on good holds. Awesome feature, classic.

Andy L.: https://vimeo.com/120233539

Clinton M.: https://youtu.be/kjrW3GyEhlU

Will A: https://vimeo.com/221130834

Start on pinchy block to a hard sloper traverse into underclings and wild cross-throughs to crimps up high. Hard. Stand start at the undercling is V9. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kjrW3GyEhlU

A foot at the start has broken since the FA making the start harder... the full opening sequence has been done post break now - possibly V12 for the full line post break

3m of climbing on inward facing crimps on a steep face lead to a scary 5m slab. Shouldery, hard. Fragile holds. https://youtu.be/Ky45gPjB-pM

Unfortunately since the FA the final crimp of the crux (left hand gaston at the lip) appears to have been chipped using an angle grinder to make it a better hold. This makes the grade closer to V11

Sit start on scoop as for shambala and trend left in the roof to crimps on the nose of the boulder. One of the best bits of steep granite in the state. Low percentage crux. A classic. Stand ~V10ish. https://vimeo.com/28345305

Start as 'Finding Max', but once you gain the right hand in the sharp jug up high drop down to finish as 'Lock It Down' instead of following the crack on the left. https://youtu.be/OJLEjkm5UdI

Classic lowball. Sit start with good slot right down low as for 'Heuco at Home'. Climb up, and trend left (avoid good jugs of 'Heuco at Home'). Establish on small right-hand crimp, followed by a big drop knee move to reach the far-away left hand crimp. Hold the tension and try top out!

Robin Y

Start as for 'A Glass Cage of Emotion' then link in to exit back and left as for 'The Cougar'. Pumpy and resistant.

Taran

Stand start on low left hand undercling and right hand high on slopey crimp. Hard start, then dyno to lip. https://vimeo.com/119337880

Note: Unfortunately the crimp that you dyno to has broken. The climb remains possible, with a bigger dyno to the lip and a larger swing out. Re-opened 5/6/22 by Tom O'Hallorhan! https://youtu.be/pwsiUx_U2mg

Start as 'Crimping Ain't Easy'. Come out left to sloper and then straight up from sloper. Adds some hard moves to the original. https://youtu.be/pwsiUx_U2mg?t=320

Sit start in the back of the cave and squeeze your way out the middle bulge with the slopey pinches to a cut loose at the lip. All time South West roof climbing in an outrageous position!

Sit start in the cave on the sidepulls (left flatty, right crimp). Big moves up to positive left pinch then right crimp with poor feet. Awesome feature.

Three moves... sit start on positive holds, up to sidepull then catch the massive barndoor with slopey undercling. Powerful. https://vimeo.com/136427795

Sit start with left hand on the slopey rail, right hand on the crimpy undercling. Gain the left hand triangle crimp and trend right to the pinch-block. Finish with a committing dyno, then top out as per other variants. Eliminates the jugs to the right of the thin crack next to the right start hold. https://vimeo.com/156231039

Sit start as Half The World Away then traverse right on the horizontal breaks to finish as 'Ramble On'. Awesome! Avoid going down into the undercling system down low. https://vimeo.com/190715338

Up to the left of ramble on. Start low on the rail and then up. https://vimeo.com/199656389 https://vimeo.com/312103531

Sit start with the two pockety features under the overhang (left hand on pocket right on crimpy pocket) with far left heel hook. Straight up, squeezing the undulating features into a juggy but heady top.

Sit start on the rail and up the roof/right arete. Hard jump to finish. https://youtu.be/09Pcj6TQbjM?t=1m6s

Sit start on good holds. Huge move to the sloper to gain the stand. The kicker down low is in.

Start as for 'Mulighted' then link into 'The Sandgroper'. Power endurance epic. https://youtu.be/GbWk69FEaAo

First move jug broke off. Small sharp crimps there now but still doable.

Re-opened post-break Aug 2023 - M. Taran. Doesn't change the grade significantly.

Sds on opposing holds, trend diagonally leftward on atrocious crimps and technical, tensiony moves.

Open project.

Start far under to dihedral, inside cave on a obvious good edge. Slap left along slopey traverse with smears and heel hooks to committing finish. HARD

Sit start as Kingslayer low on crack but head straight up with a heinous move to a sharp crimp then out to jugs and an intimidating but easy upper section.

https://youtu.be/T8qFdbWNxgY

The stand start. Left hand on sloper and right down low on a positive dimple. Chuck a left heel hook and squeeze your way up with powerful moves. Hard V11. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1YXrt1WlZKA

Sit start as for 'Stone Unturned'. From the jugs go left to the arete then straight up to the obvious orange bloc above the jug flake. Avoiding going right to the flake (Steep Edges) or going left to join the slab of ‘Old Gods’ (Knowing Is Half The Battle).

Stand start from jug undercling FA 24/4/22 V9/10? Michael T

https://youtu.be/HeYJEmcRJo4

Stand start wide with good left hand and right hand on poor slopey features. Stretch out those legs and jam a right heel to cross over to the good holds up high and top out. https://www.instagram.com/p/Bpz1wIIBJSe/

The right heel hook hold has since been broken

Sit start deep in the roof on the obvious flat jug on the left. Move right into hard moves to join the stand - 'Absolution'.

https://youtu.be/dt2dJuzYuf0

Stand start on the obvious flat rail in the middle of the overhung face. Shoulder up to the obvious juggy feature from a tiny crimp and reel yourself up for the massive finishing dyno. Hard and classic. "this isn't flying it's falling with style"

https://vimeo.com/264040170

Sit start on the right of the sharp arete with left hand pinch and right hand jug flake and then up the arete.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XQQskgGla3Y

Stand start FA by Andy Lampard.

Sit start with hands matched in the slopey dish on the right. Tricky and draining sequence to gain the stand.

Awesome tall, steep compression line on perfect rock.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CiHmGKSFvRw

‘Cosmic Artefact’ into ‘Special Relativity’. Mega pump fest with awesome moves…

Jump start. Up the arete. Tall obvious arete. https://vimeo.com/383043376

Bouldery start on tiny slopers and a shallow hueco. Once over the lip do Friction Addictions

All the moves had been done but no one was able to take care of this one until a climber from Scotland, Robbie Phillips visited Queensland. He sent the route on his last day in the country thereby establishing Queensland's current hardest Sport route.

Bouldery start trending left on line of weakness, before joining into BTHTF at the bolt below the headwall (ignore bolts out right which need to be removed).

Robbie re-named "Taking Care of Business Project" to "Haggisaurus Rex" due to the Dinosaur skin-like nature of the rock and the fact that Robbie only ate Haggis the whole time he was in Australia to maintain his Scottish Highlander Powers! Rumour has it they shipped 70 whole Haggis' to Australia just for Robbie..."

No sure if it goes. Start The Seam and stay in the it all the way. Two more bolts allow to link directly to the upper wall of Spoonman.

Start slightly left of Knifey Spooney. The fainted crack feature on that compact wall. This line link into the crux of Spoonman. Probably the hardest climb in Queensland at the moment.

And on the sixth day Bo created this line. Start in a casual laying down position with hands on the left and right crimp rails. do not start matched on the left crimp as it takes a grade or two off. bring plenty of skin

Possibly lives up to the name. It would appear that holds have broken since Brad S and Nick W first documented this boulder. A powerful, aggressive crimp boulder that needs a repeat to reconfirm the grade. Would appear at least V11.

Sit Start on good two finger side pull and crimp. Hard first moves left into small crimps, then finish as for ‘Kiss My Witness’.

Brad S and Nick W (Pictures on StrandedClimbers.Blogspot.com.au)

Start left hand on the arete, right hand on lower crimp. Overhanging arete above the small pool near the entrance as you approach super overhanging wall.

Links 'Gone for Borneo' into If the 'If the Shoe Slips'

Start as for times up but head straight up via huge dyno

Climb 'Astrobatics', then keep girdling to the right across Mr Meeseeks until you end up at the end of Desperado. The longest and hardest route in the cave.

Sit start on big undercling and good pinch at the far back of the middle of the cave. Head straight up and out of the steepest part of the cave on some very slopey holds and good underclings. Finish matched on the dream block.

Sit start on good small block and good edge. Head straight back the trend left to finish on dream block. Hard and sustained.

Start with left hand on the right hand start hold of "Straight out of Compton". Right hand on jug. From there punch straight up to the prominent pinches of "The V11" and finish on the dream block.

Stand start on right crimp pinch and low left crimp. Go through small crimpy pinches until easy top.

Stand start on distinct sidepull, executing a powerful set of moves to a show-stopping long move. How it ends was anybody's guess ... until visiting Canadian Simon Parton showed everyone how it's done in 2016 in the inaugural Passchendaele V1 Bouldering Festival.

Start matched on the sharp micro-crimp/pinch flake, then fire of onto a series of increasingly desperate slopey crimps, before busting to the jug and mantling out.

Start low on undercling, puzzle your way through the steep and finish as for Tadpole.

Start matched on obvious flat hold. Tricky moves through slopey holds lead to tough move into the slot. Use small LH crimp to gain the big sloping rail, follow it left and up above questionable landing. Bush-bash to the top.

Currently unclimbable due to recent flooding. The landing needs rebuilding.

Callum Mather

Links the Shining Path into the top of Filipino Furburger. Grade 30 route.

Scartrek-Diplomacy link then Stugang Ext gaston crux into The Wormhole Search.

Starts seated right of Osaki Dolphin, traverse under Scartrek over the slime to the Wormhole search via pocket, edges and underclings then end on Diplomacy jug!

Unclimbed.

Climb as high as possible in cave on the side and finish

Slightly contrived and very difficult. Was worked for two years consistently before eventually being climbed. Start at base of cave on big square block, up to undercling then slap left through terribly slippery holds to top out

Sit start the right hand arete of the pillar, hard moves off ground follow arete to mantle top.

Sit start low on steep pillar with hard compression, move up and out via burly climbing. Might be easier, grade needs confirming

Sit start on left side of cave, climb up through middle of cave and head straight up the crack and edges to the slopers on the lip. High delicate mantle top out. Classic