Routes in Australia for selected grade

Extension to Kundalini. Adds another 7m of hard climbing on thin crimps and pockets and a final jump to the ledge.

a.k.a Enter the Dragon, a.k.a. Mortal Combat. This is the subtle groove about 6-8m R of Mr J's arête. "33/34" with tricky beta on both cruxes and lots of kneebar action, says Alex. Start at the DRB at the base of Venom. Trend L past FH, through desperately blank looking bulge, to follow the line of anti-holds up the attractive faint groove, joining Venom at the big break. Nalle reported "8B boulder section with very precise and shoulder intensive moves, bad feet and the two worst slopers I’ve ever seen on a route. This is followed by an easier but absolutely amazing scoopy section to a pretty ok rest. From there you set up for one of the craziest dynos I’ve ever done! If you stick the low percentage dyno, there’s still a sustained run-out section with long moves to the anchor".

Climb Sitting Bull to the final break. Up a few moves then start heading right past bolt to come into Bandula crux. Finish as for Bandula. Lots of moves, no rest! Tom

Great fun. Climbs up to 1 move before Einfinger.... crux and busts out right to finish up old open projects.

Extension of Cheese Gobbler that goes all the way to the top of the cliff via a whole bunch of hard independent climbing and then the top of The Big Cheese. Original vision by Robbie, new vision and execution by Tom.

Short but desperately powerful climbing. Excellent. Originally climbed as Attack Mode to the fixed biner and given grade 32. Start at the huge handlebar jug right of the massive fallen boulder.

Boulderyness to top of cliff, anchors over lip up high and left past the "lonely virgin" finger lock.

Start: double dyno off cool slopes on boulder wall.

Australia's first 35 (albeit noting the question of how to grade Wheel of Life). An open project for over a decade. Alex took about 20 shots to send it, not long after he'd onsighted 9a at Siurana.

Ascents

• Alex Megos - 18 August 2013
• Wiz Fineron - 14 May 2019
• Ben Cossey

Start slightly left of Knifey Spooney. The fainted crack feature on that compact wall. This line link into the crux of Spoonman. Probably the hardest climb in Queensland at the moment.

Rumour is it's pretty hard. Direct start to Mono No Aware. The first 35 to be sent by an Australian (albeit noting the question of how to grade Wheel of Life). Tom

Was Vince's project, eventually sent by Tom O'Halloran. Jump start off the boulder and then up up and away forever, topping the cliff to finish. Vince climbed it to the first anchors above the lip and called that Spacecake (30).

Beta Vinyl into Tiger Cat. All the cruxes and no rest, outrageous! Grade unconfirmed.

Yet another impressive send by Alex, giving it hard 34. Shared start with Astral Traveller. Head up to small ledge and straight up with increasing difficulty.

This route was previously known as The Sean Myles Project and bolted in around '92 by its English namesake. Like a woody problem on classic Arapilisian bums through a steep wall to finish up crimpy headwall. Start at base of roof left of Aristocrat (clip the 3 dynas with single biners for ease of climbing, and to keep rope away from holds). Slappy compression leads to base of seam. Clip bolt at lip and head straight up via pulls between edges and last bolt to easy finish and single bolt lower-off.

Variation to Mr Pink.

Start 8m right of Beta Vinyl, 3m L of Tiger Snatch. Heads straight up, passing through the left end of the low horizontal break of Velvet project / Tiger Snatch. Then heads straight up to Sitting Bull's final break. Finish as for Sue's Last Ride.

"Dangle pigs". Australia's 2nd 35. Formerly a Lee Cossey project, generously gifted to Alex to keep him occupied. Starts just shy of the wall splitting arete 15m right of Ristretto. Tends rightward to breach the main roof close to its right hand end, and up wall above.

Start as for Lord Elphinstone and The Elephant Man then heads right to vague prow and all the way up up up to the top roof. The boulder in the roof is a tricky one, finishing with an all points off dyno a loooong way above the ground. Finishes out on the highest, furthest out part of the cliff. All time!

Stopping at the hands free rest under the roof is an insanely good 33.

The greatness of life is impossible to realise before you cast your eyes upon this, the route of all routes. At the time of completion it was the hardest route in the country and the hardest climbed by an Australian. Up Fantastic Mr Fox and without dangling about on the rest, bust up and into a thin crux until you reach Grey Area's rest, shake out here then finish up Grey Area and climb to the top of the cliff.

Climb original White Ladder then continue via one more boulder problem to the ledge.

Jake Bresnehan

No sure if it goes. Start The Seam and stay in the it all the way. Two more bolts allow to link directly to the upper wall of Spoonman.

Climb Mr Squiggle, then just before the anchor head left into steepness to the top of the crag. Tom

Rad rock, hard moves then the crux!! pull from a tiny crimp and its in the bag! Up Motor Pussy to 3rd bolt (??) then head right.

Bouldery start on tiny slopers and a shallow hueco. Once over the lip do Friction Addictions

A crazy extension to Metamorphosis climbing all the way to the top of the cliff. Endurance test piece.

Daniel

Do esoteric panties/evil agenda to the crux of esoteric agenda and then break left for a very hard 3 extra bolts of climbing until you reach sideways rains anchor.

The future.

Start Attack mode but go direct.

Hard line right of wrestle mania starting very low and eventually blasting through the roof. Its all there!

Heads straight up just right of the start of Sultans of Swing. Pending details.

Same sit start as antique roadshow prom but head right till you link into the V4 arete. A 60 degree sloper guards this beast.

Link 'Mushi Brain' into the last two moves of 'Abacus'

R. Hofmann

Start matched on the sidepull, make a hard move right into the start position of Bowels. Was thought to be the actual start of Bowels.

Squat start on two horizontal edges at same height and out the steep prow to top out.

Start on the undercling just right of Sushi Train's start and power up using the obvious poor pinch.

Chris Webb Parsons

Travis B

Sam Healy

Crazy roof right on the waters edge of the ocean. Start from two good crimps at the back of the cave, followed by 8 hard moves in a roof to a cool headwall and top out to the right.

First boulder of the grade sent by an Australian woman - Amy Fenton in 2017. Amy suggested a downgrade, saying "The consensus probably sits at a slash grade (V12/13) but I am definitely no authority. Before Deep Blue Sea my hardest tick was V10 so the idea of skipping two grades and going straight to V13 didn’t sit right with me."

Aurel Gelot | Travis Bettison | Mattias Braach-Maksvytis | Amy Fenton | Sam Farrar

Desperate rounded sidepull climbing in the alley up the face.

Left of The Pincer Movement, follow chalked cobwebbed crack.

Elijah Mercado

A very good piece of climbing. Apparently the trick is to control the swing.

Chris Webb Parsons

Travis B

Start as for nasty and go directly upwards finishing last moves as for RBTL.

Tom Farrell

Stand start in the break. Tough move through rounded pinch/layaway dish to slot then up slab. Given V10 by James.

Start same as Project Slap but after establishing the slopey crimp, traverse out left on tiny crimps and knobs to the arete and mantle to topout.

Start with There Will Be Blood, but instead of topping out use the edges on problem #39 to come across to The Katana and finish on The Katana. A long endurance test piece that will certainly be a hard link up. Adds in a hard crux of coming down of the starting edge of #39 to the start of The Katana. Could probably shake out stemming between the Katana and Blood boulders... Contrived...

The imposing face across to the right from PP. Stand start with high crimp. Up to the two bad pinches, then punch up to the lip. Finish on good holds out left.

"Grimacing" into Agent Orange.

Makes Joe, Joe Dynamo (Lot 33) feel like a walk in the park. Consensus upgrade from V11.

Sit start on the scoop and move left using some crimps to gain the big rail before doing a huge span out left to join Odin's Raven.

Sit start in the cave on the sidepulls (left flatty, right crimp). Big moves up to positive left pinch then right crimp with poor feet. Awesome feature.

This problem goes out the steepest part of the roof. Start matched low on the horizontal rail then out to the LH gaston and then up to the RH 3 finger pocket. A big throw to the LH undercling pocket then up some good holds to a powerful finish at the big hueco.

Slot currently broken. Much much harder now.

Start down in the little cave and power your way up through the crimps and pockets, heading left and linking into Little Spoon. (Open project with proposed grade of v11/12)

Climb the obvious fridge feature. deep from in the cave. Slap side to side and try and work out the wacky puzzle at the lip. Don't get swallowed up by the giant monster!!

Sit start on the jug under the rooflet and follow the arete all the way to the top of the block.

Might need a brush as it's getting mossy again.

Sit start at the bottom of the obvious crack in the roof and up. The holds run out and force a massive throw to good holds near the lip of the roof.

Start on the double gastons a couple of tricky moves and a desperate swing will get you established onto The Never Ending Story, finish as for this.

Starting a few moves further right on some horrible small sidepulls is a project in the V12 range.

Stand start, up on slopey pockets to top. Very friction dependent.

Elijah Mercado Sam Healy

Start matched on the 2 crimpy underclings, traverse right and do a big dynamic move to a good edge on the break. Finish matched on the big horn just behind the ledge.

Classic lowball. Sit start with good slot right down low as for 'Heuco at Home'. Climb up, and trend left (avoid good jugs of 'Heuco at Home'). Establish on small right-hand crimp, followed by a big drop knee move to reach the far-away left hand crimp. Hold the tension and try top out!

Robin Y

Very solid; as shown by Fred Nicole in the classic EOS2 video (or more recently by James Litz in Dosage 3).

Sit start with two opposing vertical holds, head left via big move and finish via arete

Starts as a sit/crouch start on the chalk at the far right of the crumbly cave and then up the “v3” and into the roof to finish on the last big jug (same finish as leviticus)

Really great and unique overhanging roof coffin. Sit-starts low on right hand pinch and left positive side-pull. Thug up left and and start slapping. Finishes on obvious big juggy break above the coffin.

Into the bush about 100m left of the Skittle boulder.

A more direct line into When We Were Kings, starting further to the right.

Stand start on bad angled edges below the start for Sideshow and Main Event. Head right via gastons and sidepulls to gain gain the lip and finish as for Sideshow

roof, no top out

Sit start compressing the boulder. Climb a ~V8/9 compression sequence into the V11 stand start. Awesome, sustained climbing.

Adds a move into the 'crouch' starting with the right hand dish and slightly higher left hand originally opened by legendary Andy Lampard. https://vimeo.com/264036730

Start as for Trident, and instead of throwing to the large slope slap to the crimp 1 foot left instead. Finish out left on lip

Sit start in the back of the cave and squeeze your way out the middle bulge with the slopey pinches to a cut loose at the lip. All time South West roof climbing in an outrageous position!

Start on the large jug in the darkest depths of the cave - (the finish of X-Treme Cool) and head out to the jug at the start of Cave Man

Hard technical climbing in a steep open corner

Start & finish as for Grubby Paw but direct to hueco as for The Smiling Assassin.

Chris Beers Mattias Braach-Maksvytis

Alec Landstra (post breakage)

Stand Start - Start about 3m right of Darkside on the obvious jug at head height, pull out into roof then move left and finish as for Darkside.

Mega roof fridge, start on the arete and crimp following the arete until holds start apearing up the face.

Sit start with left hand jug and right hand low side pull. Hard burly compression sequence into the stand.

https://www.instagram.com/p/ByUBgfAjWjH/

https://youtu.be/4K0QTDkKRSI

30m? right of the bottom dam is a bulgy arete feature just to the left of a little chimney crack. Sit start left of the crack, head left and around the arete, then up to slopers.

Still a proj?

Sit start left arete as for 'Smooth Jazz, sit start', up to the start jug of Mr Bump, then link right to V-Juice(Stand) holds and finish as for 'Finger Hooks'.

Surprising and technical beta, Powerful and hard, and has been linked in two overlapping segments. Power endurance beast

Stand start from left hand crimp and low right hand undercling, up prow to insecure top out.

6 moves, SDS

The final chapter... Start as for 'Spanking the Monkeybars', reverse 'A Horse is a Horse', then finish as for 'The Weill of Fortune'. Route grade of 33.

There is the potential to start at the far left of this boulder and traverse into Hideout, will be tight to avoided dabbing the ground and could be very hard.

The impossible line directly above the Phone Diddle start. Sit start at the ledge, move to some tiny crimps then up through some imaginary slopers to top out.

The first V12 in OZ! Very powerful.

The clean overhanging face to the left of ‘Sudoku.’

Paul's Present finishing up Exit Wounds.

mattias braach-maksvytis

Start on LH pinch and RH undercling, up through shouldery dihedral before finishing as for storm chasers.

The wobbly block recently came out, but the boulder will still go at a similar grade.

Low start to Romper Stomper.

Sam Healy

Start as 'The Sweetest Contrivances' then traverse left through the overhang to link into 'Drop It Like It's Hot'. Pumpy and hard. https://youtu.be/pwsiUx_U2mg?t=126

Contact finishing up Savage

Sit start with left hand on the half pad crimp rail and right on the nothing pinch, shoot up to the variety of crimps and the puzzle get's real! Potentially much harder than the estimated grade

Big first move to finish straight up the ramp.

Start as 'Crimping Ain't Easy'. Come out left to sloper and then straight up from sloper. Adds some hard moves to the original. https://youtu.be/pwsiUx_U2mg?t=320