Routes in Australia for selected grade

There is the potential to start at the far left of this boulder and traverse into Hideout, will be tight to avoided dabbing the ground and could be very hard.

Open project.

Distillery Creek's answer to Powerslave. hand start on good low left arete. Big moves to opposing sidepulls, and mantle over the lip.

Start as for Sideshow, once hitting lip, traverse right for several metres via bad slopers to gain better terrain for mantle

SDS with the jug and crimp. Pop out to the sloped crimps and knobs on the face then Pop to good topout holds.

SS on the face crimps or undercling on the right side of the face and climb up.

A non existent route.

The hardest open project in the Gorge and possibly the hardest line in the gorge if it goes. Takes the blank left face and sharp arete to DBB

A great looking project starting all the way underneath and slightly to the left, almost in front of the small boulder. Some apposing pebbles and hard compression might get you into a nice looking pocket before trying to latch the pebble jug(stand start foot hold) and heading all the way up the arete.

Start as for Red Hood's Revenge, climbing into the reverse of Bane to exit the cave and blast up and right to finish as for Electric Bat Mobile. An undoubtably worthy villain for the Bat

From the Waterfall Dome Parking area follow the quad trail to the Dome, once you see the "Three Stooges" boulders, go uphill passing the stooges on the right for about 100m. As the hill gets steeper look to the right and you should see this boulder.

Sit start on obvious feature and head to right arete with difficulty and heel hooking. Once you get there, keep going up and left to top. Then keep your heart pumping by down climbing the 'Sickle of death project'.

This boulder is 10 m down stream of Mad Woman's Breakfast.

Sitting on other boulders, there is a short roof under the boulder. From the start position, your back is to the river.

Sit start on obvious large sloping feature with your left heel by your hands. Up to a small slopey crimp, or if you like, to the very small, incut and very sharp flexing crimp. Then pull hard and throw up to rail, match then very hard mantel top out.

Stand start on crimpy ledge, up to the crimpy sidepull and move over left to the glorius jug which is then only one dynamic move away from the top! Nice project, graded at around V8 - V10!

Linkup 'Upper Pipe Dreams' into 'Pipe Dreams' to the double heel, then into 'Rubble'. Described in the Sydney Bouldering Guidebook as not yet sent

Up the face underneath 'Scrubba Dub' Start LH on small sidepull nub and RH on terrible sloper indent. chockstone foot probably has to be in for it to be possible.

SS on the arete and throw upwards through bad holds to topout

Sit start and up very thin crimps on near vertical wall

Regrade proj due to holds exploding.

Start low on the arete and head up laybacking the arete and avoiding rocking over onto the easy slab.

Powerful thin climbing through the bulges

Exiting the corner of Tekken to join Balance of Evil via. a two move V9 boulder problem.

Closed Project atmo.

Stugang Extension into the finish of 'Wormhole'.

Looks like a pissy little link up but it was actually done before Aging 'Gigolo'.

Start: Start as for 'The Floating Cloud'

Looks like a pissy little link up but it was actually done before Aging Gigolo.

Start up The Floating Cloud then move left into Aging Gigolo.

Sustained slopy masterpiece that some reckon is the best thing on Spurt. It climbs a blazingly direct line of pockets and crimps. Typical Julian bullshit runouts to sketchy clips with the technical crux several metres above a bolt. 6 bolts.

Climbs the smooth wall straight above Fruit Bat.

Sit start on jugs of FITH, but head out the opposite way. Once you gain the face exit straight up with big undercling and avoid trending right

Tension dependent and hard.

https://vimeo.com/326212278 @5:15

Sit start on small edges. Right up the middle of the face on tiny crimps...Sketchy landing with the ledge.

Sit start on the poor crimps and low foot. Big throw to the arete and then follow the arete right and up. Second problem in this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=drTyjLhY7Ds

An impressive line, starting at the right hand end of this wall. Start on the big low ledge, go up to the side pull, thence the mono. The top is slopey and amazingly scary.

Steve Karma (FA)

Sans mono... Harder...

Sam Healy

The mainline through the cave.

Sit Start as for 'The Shrike' and link into 'Positive Aspects of Negative Thinking'

SS 1m L of ‘High Society” awaits a ropeless ascent. Super low start that traverses in from the L below ledge is an open project.

Sit start on jugs formed by the crack. Traverse right on tough holds into the start of “Déjà Hues” and top out as this. Was sent by a visiting comp climber at V8/9, 5 years ago- sand height dependant.

Gold Coasts hardest open project boulder problem that exists so far. The sit start to “The Golden Hour”. Adds a number of extremely difficult long moves. The top out is v4- do it for the full tick.

Sit start as for NC on the left side looking out of the cave. Blast along the lip on the left to a stopper Steep Crux. Top out on buckets above next to the small tree. The only line that can escape the cave

Start matched on small crimp 1m L of ZZ. Shoot to crimp in the roof. From here, the hands follow only the thin crack until you reach the catch hold from the ICCCY dyno. Link into ZZ to finish and top out. Easier variations likely exist where the hands deviate from the thin crack. FA used only the crack for hands.

Start on the bulge with right hand finger lock thing, The big attached lower rock(s) are in.

F is for friends who do stuff together U is for you and me N is for anywhere and anytime at all Down here in the deep blue sea

Start left hand on the same hold as Land Of Shadow and Right hand on the Lower of the two right hand side pulls. One FU move to glory.

Start Matched on the crimpy flat hold on the bottom left of the boulder near the detached rock (watch your head) stay along the arete and finish on the top jug rail before mantleing over.

There may be another line possible that mantles earlier. but for Hammer Head climb all the out right.

Beta for clarity: https://youtu.be/BNXb8dtM5IQ

Relentless compression problem with a powerful squat/sit using R crimp and L pinch/slope. Gaining the lip grants you the experience of a ridiculously committing and tricky mantle up the small corner. Grade needs confirmation V8 or V9.

Alt-start (sit) on R crimps for same/harder grade.

Oliver Rickford

Sit start deep in the cave. At tad dabby at the start. Out on jugs into awesome crux compression encounter at the blunt arete and up into an exposed finish. Mega classic!. https://youtu.be/o7ESkfNQxO8?t=324

Do the reverse compression sequence then finish as for ‘Space Junk Vol 2’. Rad fun pumpy one with a bit more of a desperate finish.

Sit start with opposing holds (left hand diagonal seam and right on vertical seam). Up with burly compression moves and bunchy feet. Classic.

https://youtu.be/5urJc1MZHKU

Start matched at the crack deep in the cave on obvious fin-holds. Move out through the roof with cryptic sequences and into a heart breaking finish trending right to the jug horn and topping out far right. Quite dabby but very cool. https://youtu.be/BerLRb_uISI

All time! Stand start with obvious flake feature and up with burly moves. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5euYCi6O6UU

Sit start with crimps. Adds a hard pull on and two tricky moves to the stand ('Never Say Never').

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S1SaXPhSq58

The sweeping left arete. Sit start on the diamond wing at the base of the arete and traverse the arete to topout at the peak of the boulder. Early exits are possible, and earn you a downgrade. https://vimeo.com/264541174

Stand start with right hand undercling and left hand sloper at the bottom of the huge roof to the right of 'Mini-adventure'. Flowing movement on jugs into the guts of the roof and a radical high tension crux. Avoid the dab and top out. A classic!

Needs low swell, low tide and a good going easterly to dry off. Sketchy landing.

https://youtu.be/G-sbC4BD0pI

Sit start with obvious ear hold and good foot. Up and right to Gaston crimp then into the horizontal break. Traverse right and finish as for ‘Last Fair Deal’

The direct finish - avoiding going to the jug on the left. Instead do a tricky mantle onto the bulge. May add a grade - hard to tell.

Sit start on the right. Head left with slopey holds into a big move to the big hold on the left. Tricky to gain the slab and top out. Cool one squeezed out by Andy! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wH-DSepBeAE

Sit start on the undercling edge and edge around the right then up and left. Powerful first move to the undercling jug into a heartbreaking finish crux.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e7umCYRlQWs

Went down after 100+ sessions of epic then quickly got a 2nd and 3rd ascent, downgrading to ~V8.

The left starting foothold broke off in November 2022 and new beta for the start had to be unlocked. The line was re-opened 20/11/22 - A. Lampard

Stand start on underclings. Gets scary up high!

Sit start on the right then up the beautiful arcing swan wing feature with a wild crux throwing out right from a tiny left crimp! Classic. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4nbS0XHYsks

Same rad start, but jag left after the roof for a balls-hard compression top-out, potentially a bad fall

Sit start low in the back of the cave. Beautiful flowing sequence through the roof leads to a punchy crux at the lip.

https://youtu.be/Vvo8qi93MCU

Sit start at the base of the cave. Climb up the overhanging face avoiding coming out to the slopey lip early. Up using series of edges and pockets, then hard moves to gain the slopers and top out. https://youtu.be/sx1kxFwwJDE

Straight out from the back of the cave though edge system to gain a good pinch. Classic cross over move at the 2/3 mark from a right hand pinch to a good left hand pocket. https://youtu.be/TjXbWMluEkM?t=311

Start with left hand undercling, right hand sidepull. Powerful and technical moves through the double prow. Highly visible so keep chalk to a minimum and respect the area (clean tick marks, rubbish...) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XbtxuyRHWUA

Highball. Sit start on low flake then up slopey holds avoiding the left boulder.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cXtav9Ae_I0

Start on slopey pinches with feet low, then bust out to the lip while holding the banana-hammock. Starting with feet high earns you Pebbles Variant.

Andy

Up obvious amphitheatre/groove. Technical highball slab with a massive dyno to finish. Classic. Easier the taller you are. https://vimeo.com/182053235 https://vimeo.com/233165991 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZCy6TkelCc4

Low start matched on the chalky pinch holds (same start as 'Haystacks') and up the middle of the boulder with long move to crimp, avoid trending too far left into 'Haystacks'

Sit start under the slight belly in the rock. Head up to small dimple crimps.

Linking the V6 sitstart into Frankenruby to add a bit of spice

Do Phone Sex then keep traversing through reverse Call Girls until you reach the base of The Tower then do The Tower.

Sit start and traverse right through a line of very small crimps, topping out for Brass Monkey. If you stay off the higher crimps, add a grade.

CMCC

i cant get it but if someone can please take a video and grade it

Same as Areia No Zoio, but go straight at the roof without using the left wall.

This tall proud line is not for the faint of heart. Difficult first move on small rail and then big moves between slopey rails, to a delicate dead point to half moon scoop. From here you change gears, moving left to delicate crimping and footwork for a few committing moves before a nice top out. Good landing but bring plenty of pads, and rope. Very easy to rope but need a rope protector as the top is quite sharp.

Any version of Steve Austin that doesn’t involve left hand on the undercling as per FA sequence.

Link Tushi Strain into Sushi Train

A fun variant. Start matched on the same undercling rail as Fight Club but with feet toehooking the next jug.

About 100m further south on a steep boulder near the water. Start matched on the bucket jug, set up and go!

Matti Puckridge

Climb room with a view all the way to the slopey lip then bust up and left to good ledge before going straight up and up on some crimp rails before easy high terrain topping out. First done with a tied in spotter and it would be recommended.

Stand start on a right hand edge and left hand undercling around head height. Make a reachy move to some dimples with the right hand and make your way up on edges to top out.

Sit start on sidepull moving up and left through pocket. Top out.

Slow drying top section.

Almost certainly reclaimed by moss. Hanging slab/face with spaced pockets. Climbed by Nick Sutter in the way back.

Traverse (Left to Right) the overhanging lip from a sit start on jug below chimney and avoiding the obvious line of jugs 1m above lip. Hardest at the start to gain Stiff Upper Lip.

The next line of edges up to a sloping topout. Sit start on large rail using edges to reach the lip

Start in the small cave on the good rail and try not to dab the boulder behind you!

Sit start with left hand on the slanted pocket and right-hand on the arete. Slap up the right arete with classic moves- dodgy landing.

Stand Start - The Antichrist can be split into two easier problems, split by the large jug in the centre of the traverse. The first half climbs at about V7, and can also be done at a slightly harder grade in reverse. The second half can be done at about V8/9.

Firetail

The slightly overhanging rounded arete straight off the path on the right hand end of the buttress. A hard start and 2 bolts of somewhat dirty rock leads to a horizontal break. Then sustained, powerful and technical climbing on excellent rock through 3 more bolts to lower offs.

Climbs the right arete of the main face in its entirety. Reportedly quite nails.

A grade 30 slab. Does anything more need to be said?

Water polished granite. Climb Me. This gem of a climb is a must for people who like climbing good routes. A hard boulder to get to the 4th draw will keep the masses away, and the mantel at the top will keep the boulderers crying. Good conditions help.

Same start as Entrée but go direct. When the route steepens, the hard climbing begins! (skip dogging bolts on redpoint). To some jugs. Then go and get it. A very nice and sharp hold. Head out L to reach the chains. Come Get Me!

At the very top of The Gonk is a spell binding corner. From the top of The Gonk rappel from a double bolt belay onto a ledge which is the top of The Life of Meaning. The crux is well protected by cams and the second half of the route is sparsely protected with small wires and potentially ball nuts if you have them.

Right hand finish, maybe slightly harder.