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The Villas Cave 🚫

Climbing in this area is closed.

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Description

The cave with the shell midden floor was once a popular bouldering area but was declared closed in December 2016 by Sutherland Shire Council and Dept Environment and Heritage as the cave is considered an aboriginal occupation site. This is the home of Australia's first V12, Contact.

Access issues inherited from Sutherland

For over 50 years climbers in the Sutherland Shire have enjoyed free access to many fantastic crags and caves. But as of 2014 there have been access problems emerging at several climbing and bouldering areas due to aboriginal art sites and shell middens in caves. Sutherland Shire Council and the Dept of Enviroment and Heritage have announced closures and sign-posted some of these aboriginal sites, with further closures and signs to be added during summer/autumn 2016/2017. Areas of particular problem are ground level overhangs with flat bases, the type of terrain popular at hard bouldering areas. Whilst the details are sorted out keep a low profile, clean up ALL rubbish (inc removing mattresses in bouldering caves) and avoid climbing at closed areas. In particular treat non-climbers you see at crags with the utmost respect as they could be rangers, archeologists, traditional owners or anyone else with a dim view of climbers and the ability to shut us out. Climbing in Royal National Park has been officially banned for many years - probably due mostly to the Wattamolla 'don't jump off rocks' cliff-diving-into-water ban. For more information about aboriginal sites and rockclimbing please read this link from Sutherland Council: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0KxtU2nUQB9cjhHUWE4cE5HWnM/view?usp=sharing

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
Closed

Start on the obvious edge just right of the arete, traverse right to finish (stay below the sandy jugs)

Closed

From the big jug a couple of metres right of the corner, go straight up to the sandy jugs. The back wall is off for your feet

Closed

Start on the lip of the roof, 1m right of big jug to the finish.

Closed

Crag Classic

FA: Paul Westwood, 2000

Closed

The first V12 in OZ! Very powerful.

FA: Paul Westwood

Closed

Contact finishing up Savage

Closed

Hard for the grade. Sustained, pumpy and powerful.

Neil

FA: Paul Westwood, 2000

Closed

Start 'Savage', finish 'Paul's Present', no back wall.

FA: Chris Webb Parsons, 2007

Closed

Direct finish to Shoosh - go straight up around the lip without using the juggy lip hold out right

FA: Tom Farrell

Closed

A great present from the Toni and Klem road trip of '99. Very committing, desperate and good. Pad out the landing well as falling from the top out would be very ugly.

FA: Toni Lamprecht, 2000

Closed

Paul's Present finishing up Exit Wounds.

mattias braach-maksvytis

FA: Mattias Braach-Maksvytis, 11 Aug 2015

Closed

Start Exit Wounds and make four or five moves linking into Paul's Present. Could be soft?

Cory Cook

FA: Mattias Braach-Maksvytis, 2013

Closed

2 metres right of PP. Start on a good edge and an undercling (to the left of the small rock). Move powerfully out the roof left of the crack, and then bodly up the airy headwall trending left.

mattias braach-maksvytis

Closed

From the back of the cave, follow the holds out the roof crack (no jamming required). Dodgy landing, finish rightwards.

Closed

Start in underclings at the back of the cave (back wall is on), climb out and into right hand side of scoop, then move right and across to the big pockets, before tackling the powerful headwall. Bad landing

Closed
Closed

Up just left of small tree

Closed

Up left of 'The Crack'

Closed

The awesome offwidth - jam it.

Closed

25m further right of 'The Crack'. In the cave.

Closed

Start matched on the obvious crimpy ledge on the left of the bloc. Traverse right across the seam, then up to finish on the slopey ledge at the base of the roof

Start: 3 metres right of 'Grande'

FA: Brett Heino

Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Mike Forward and Peter Balint

Date: 2023

With 2065 bouldering problems ranging from V0-V15 across 57 areas nestled around Sydney, the all new Sydney Bouldering Guide will keep you occupied for years to come. Just because we live in Sydney we'll try not to be biased but honestly this city has some amazing bouldering and usually not more than a few minutes off the road or some even near parks and train stations. There's no need to camp out and trek for hours to get to world class problems, they're right on your door step.

Authors Mike Forward and Peter Balint spent over 7 years putting this guide together and is the first new bouldering guide for Sydney in over 20 years. It's over 350 colour pages including 600+ colour photo tops, crag tops, amazing images and more.

Author(s): Neil Monteith & Simon Carter

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9780645299908

Featuring 1142 climbing routes located at 24 of the best crags in the Sydney area, this A5 size guide book is super user friendly with easy to use colour cliff topos and access maps. Covers sport and trad climbing at a variety of grades, something for everyone.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Thu 25 May
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