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The Middle Area

  • Grade context: AU

Summary

Some cool problems, a hard problem and a lot of polystyrene. More to come here on ropes.

Description

A smaller area. Leave this one for later if you've not checked out the rest.

Access issues

None.

Approach

Drop down from the fence-line. You're there.

Ethic

Don't bolt without consultation.

History

History timeline chart

Polystyrene was discovered by Eduard Simon 1839. Years later, someone produced a huge amount of it, and someone else (I'm presuming but it feels safe) dumped it in this basalt labyrinth, along with some white goods and half a car. Honestly, it hardly feels like Eduard's fault at this stage.

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Routes

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Grade Route

On wall just east of the area entrance. First of two easy problems.

Simple stuff.

In a crevice west of Riverside walk in. Sit start off crimps on right. Steep, thin, powerful. Two more moves and it would be all time.

FA: Evan.C

Low ball V0 jam crack. Try it.

FA: Evan.C

Sit start off the lip. Trickier than it looks.

FA: Evan.C

Sit start to climb the face to a tricky top. Really nice.

Start at the obvious sidepull, up to thin horizontal seam. Move right to the blunt arete to join Park Lane, up this. Some of the best real estate around here, recommended

FA: DodB

Climb Mayfair to the seam but dont move right into Park Lane, directly up stayiing left of the arete.

FA: DodB

Start on the right side of the overhang right of Mayfair, up and left to gain the blunt arete shared with Mayfair, balancy moves up this.

FA: DodB

Directly opposite Mayfair, not bad as a warm up despite appearances.

FA: DodB

The clean face right of Euston, staying left of the crack.

FA: DodB

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Lindorff, Goding & Hodgson

Date: 2011

ISBN: 9780646529387

Get ready to fully experience the rock climbing scene in Victoria with Sublime Climbs, a comprehensive guidebook authored by Kevin Lindorff, Josef Goding, and Jarrod Hodgson. This full-color, 380-page book covers the best climbing locations in the region, including Mt Arapiles, Mt Buffalo, and the Grampians. It features descriptions of over 700 routes, topographic maps, and breathtaking images. Whether you're a seasoned pro or new to the sport, Sublime Climbs has everything you need to make the most of your climbing experience in Victoria and experience all of it's classic routes.

Author(s): Chris Baxter & Glenn Tempest

Date: 1994

ISBN: 0646167308

A Guide to selected rockclimbs at Mt Arapiles,the Grampians and Mt Buffalo

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Fri 30 Jun
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