Showing all 18 routes.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Project "Dos Monos"
First route on the eastern side next to the bouldering cave - still a closed project featuring natural monos. | 10m, 5 | ||||
22 | ★★ Malo Mal
Named after the graffiti artist. The first route climbed here. Tricky start, then beautiful pockets, some reaches and a slight runout to the anchor. FA: matt hoschke, 9 Jan 2021 | 9m, 4 | |||
24 | ★★ Hungry Ghost
First and most accessible route in the roof. Juggy start leads to a tricky mantle. Rest up on the ledge and fire a boulder above. Clip the left bolt after the ledge to avoid a potential swing onto the ledge. FA: matt hoschke, 2021 | ||||
Project (Hungry Coast)
Climb Hungry Ghost to the last bolt. Continue right past an additional bolt and finish as for Ghost of the Coast. Feel free to do it. | |||||
26 | ★★ Hunger in the Sun
Start as for Ghost of the Coast/Sun Ghost for a few bolts. Then head left to join Hungry Ghost past an additional bolt. Pumpy first half. FA: matt hoschke, 2021 | ||||
29 | ★★★ Ghost of the Coast
The central line through the best rock of the cave. Gymnastic climbing in the first half. Outstanding boulder problem after the ledge. Kneepad used on the first ascent. To minimise rope drag double or triple length draws are recommended, as well as unclipping previous draws where possible. FA: matt hoschke, 2021 | ||||
★★ Project Sun Ghost
Start as for Ghost of the Coast. Instead of mantling onto the ledge traverse right and up through the roof. The most continuous route in the cave. Hopefully Matt finishes this one off soon, after punting near the anchor last year. Will be about 27. | |||||
Project (open)
As for Solar Flare, but continue left to the arete and up. Might be possible to stay on the arete 🤷 | |||||
25 | ★★ Solar Flare
An unusual route on a striking feature that covers some varied terrain. Start as for Moontower to get established on the wall, head left past a long move and continue onto the orange face. After a potential lie down rest, climb the beautiful streaked face. This was the first route climbed in this section. FA: matt hoschke, 2021 | 5 | |||
27 | ★★★ Moontower
Crag classic beautiful overhanging prow. Is this the Illawarra or the Grampians? Originally climbed direct all the way. There is new beta going right at the last bolt which is easier, but be mindful of the rope running across the arete. FA: matt hoschke, 2021 | ||||
18 | ★ Under the Weeping Moon
The corner feature. Clip the bolt at the end of the ledge. Mantle onto the ledge at the base of the corner (crux?). Continue up the corner. Unusual for sandstone, this features some delicate smearing on slick rock. Granite technicians will find it a cakewalk. Gets runoff after heavy rain in the top part, but mostly stays climbable. FA: matt hoschke, 2021 | ||||
24 | ★★ Honey
Classy face climbing! Start as for Under the Weeping Moon, then climb the face just to the right. Incredible rock reminiscent of the Wimmera. Finishes at the first set of anchors at the ledge. Bakes in the sun. Unrepeated I believe. FA: matt hoschke, 2021 | ||||
25 | ★ Golden Syrup
A two-bolt variant to honey. After establishing on the face continue to the small arete. A few cruxy moves joins into Honey. Unrepeated and potentially solid for the grade. FA: matt hoschke, 2021 | ||||
27 | ★★ Crimson Gold
Extension of Honey. After resting on the ledge, continue through a perplexing bulge and roof above. Finish close to the top of the cliff. Amazing position and view at the top! Unrepeated and hard to grade, could be 26 if tall. 70m rope required to lower to the ground. FA: matt hoschke, 2021 | ||||
Project (Ziggy Starfish)
The rightmost route starting off the ledge. Has proved more difficult than expected. Closed for now. | |||||
23 | ★★ Total Eclipse of the Start
Very high batman start. A stick clip will most likely not reach. Find a dead Gymea Lily stalk and stand on the boulder below to clip. A fun route that is more than meets the eye from the ground. Very cool roof pull and then a face that doesn't quite ease until the anchor. Could be 24. FA: matt hoschke, 2022 | ||||
Project
Power endurance roof climbing. Four distinct boulders in a row. Happy for someone to try this in exchange for a belay! Set: matt hoschke | |||||
V3 | ★ Choss Gobblers
Block below Total Eclipse of the Start. FA: Murray & matt hoschke, 2021 |
Showing all 18 routes.