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Routes in Sun Village

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Showing all 18 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Project "Dos Monos"

First route on the eastern side next to the bouldering cave - still a closed project featuring natural monos.

SportProject 10m, 5
22 Malo Mal

Named after the graffiti artist. The first route climbed here. Tricky start, then beautiful pockets, some reaches and a slight runout to the anchor.

FA: matt hoschke, 9 Jan 2021

Sport 9m, 4
24 Hungry Ghost

First and most accessible route in the roof. Juggy start leads to a tricky mantle. Rest up on the ledge and fire a boulder above. Clip the left bolt after the ledge to avoid a potential swing onto the ledge.

FA: matt hoschke, 2021

Sport
Project (Hungry Coast)

Climb Hungry Ghost to the last bolt. Continue right past an additional bolt and finish as for Ghost of the Coast. Feel free to do it.

SportProject
26 Hunger in the Sun

Start as for Ghost of the Coast/Sun Ghost for a few bolts. Then head left to join Hungry Ghost past an additional bolt. Pumpy first half.

FA: matt hoschke, 2021

Sport
29 Ghost of the Coast

The central line through the best rock of the cave. Gymnastic climbing in the first half. Outstanding boulder problem after the ledge. Kneepad used on the first ascent.

To minimise rope drag double or triple length draws are recommended, as well as unclipping previous draws where possible.

FA: matt hoschke, 2021

Sport
Project Sun Ghost

Start as for Ghost of the Coast. Instead of mantling onto the ledge traverse right and up through the roof. The most continuous route in the cave.

Hopefully Matt finishes this one off soon, after punting near the anchor last year. Will be about 27.

SportProject
Project (open)

As for Solar Flare, but continue left to the arete and up. Might be possible to stay on the arete 🤷

SportProject
25 Solar Flare

An unusual route on a striking feature that covers some varied terrain. Start as for Moontower to get established on the wall, head left past a long move and continue onto the orange face. After a potential lie down rest, climb the beautiful streaked face.

This was the first route climbed in this section.

FA: matt hoschke, 2021

Sport 5
27 Moontower

Crag classic beautiful overhanging prow. Is this the Illawarra or the Grampians?

Originally climbed direct all the way. There is new beta going right at the last bolt which is easier, but be mindful of the rope running across the arete.

FA: matt hoschke, 2021

Sport
18 Under the Weeping Moon

The corner feature. Clip the bolt at the end of the ledge. Mantle onto the ledge at the base of the corner (crux?). Continue up the corner. Unusual for sandstone, this features some delicate smearing on slick rock. Granite technicians will find it a cakewalk.

Gets runoff after heavy rain in the top part, but mostly stays climbable.

FA: matt hoschke, 2021

Sport
24 Honey

Classy face climbing! Start as for Under the Weeping Moon, then climb the face just to the right. Incredible rock reminiscent of the Wimmera. Finishes at the first set of anchors at the ledge. Bakes in the sun. Unrepeated I believe.

FA: matt hoschke, 2021

Sport
25 Golden Syrup

A two-bolt variant to honey. After establishing on the face continue to the small arete. A few cruxy moves joins into Honey. Unrepeated and potentially solid for the grade.

FA: matt hoschke, 2021

Sport
27 Crimson Gold

Extension of Honey. After resting on the ledge, continue through a perplexing bulge and roof above. Finish close to the top of the cliff. Amazing position and view at the top!

Unrepeated and hard to grade, could be 26 if tall. 70m rope required to lower to the ground.

FA: matt hoschke, 2021

Sport
Project (Ziggy Starfish)

The rightmost route starting off the ledge. Has proved more difficult than expected. Closed for now.

SportProject
23 Total Eclipse of the Start

Very high batman start. A stick clip will most likely not reach. Find a dead Gymea Lily stalk and stand on the boulder below to clip.

A fun route that is more than meets the eye from the ground. Very cool roof pull and then a face that doesn't quite ease until the anchor. Could be 24.

FA: matt hoschke, 2022

Sport
Project

Power endurance roof climbing. Four distinct boulders in a row. Happy for someone to try this in exchange for a belay!

SportProject
V3 Choss Gobblers

Block below Total Eclipse of the Start.

FA: Murray & matt hoschke, 2021

Boulder

Showing all 18 routes.

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