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Ötscher Rock climbing 3 routes in area

Grade context: UIAA
Photos: 2
Ascents: 2

YDS

5.0 5.2 5.4 5.6 5.7 5.8 5.9

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Summary

Ötscher lies in the north-east end of the Alps and is part of the Ybbstal Alps.

Description

Being the last high mountain in its area, it offers nice views in all directions. The high plateau formed by the old mountains of Bohemian Massif in the north, and the Northern Limestone Alps from Schneeberg over Hochschwab to Totes Gebirge in the south. The isolated position also means it is quite exposed to weather and winds.

Accessible from all sides, it is a popular destination all the year round and offers something to everybody. Hikers and ski tourists ascend mostly from north-west. Alpinists will find some scrambling on the east ridge (Rauher Kamm) interesting, especially in the winter. There is also the north face with wet moss and rotten rock climbing around 4 UIAA and southern ridges offering dwarf pine climbing.

Besides the mountain as such, the famous canyons in the south-east Hintere Tormäuer and Ötschergraben are worth a visit. There is also a small ski area in the north-west, Lackenhof.

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Routes

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1 2 45m

2 2 35m

3 1 65m

4 3 35m

5 3- 30m

6 4 30m

7 4- 30m

8 1+ 50m

9 3- 35m

10 4+ 35m

11 2- 40m

12 2- 30m

13 2- 40m

14 1- 50m

The Ötscher north face is a little gem of alpine climbing. The shady north face ascent offers climbers an ideal playground to train for big alpine walls (e.g. Watzman east face). You climb higher on ledges, short rock steps and wet chimney gullies until you have to tackle a mostly wet wall as the final section. Thanks to the bolts at the belays and difficult climbing passages, this is a feasible north face adventure on the showpiece summit of the Ybbstal Alps. The Ötscher north face is an alpine, adventurous classic that should not be missed.

FA: Heinz Fallmann, 1930

Ötscher Norwand is an interesting winter ice and mixed climbing destination if the conditions are right. Please don't underestimate this tour - especially the transitions from ice to "something" are often quite challenging! Several great variations are possible on this wall...

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Im extremen Fels

Author(s): Christoph Klein & Jürgen Winkler

Date: 2023

ISBN: 978-3-95611-182-2

Hört, seht und staunt - alles in allem warten hier 120 Pause-Touren! DAS ultimative Werk für Extremkletterer und für alle die von den ganz großen Kletterrouten der Alpen träumen (wollen).

Im extremen Fels - Die "legendären" Alpinklettertouren in den Alpen

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Longlines - Die ganz großen Klettereien der Nördlichen Kalkalpen

Author(s): Adi Stocker

Date: 2014

ISBN: 978-3-95611-022-1

Auf den 44 000 für dieses Buch recherchierten Klettermetern mischen sich epochale alpine Meilensteine unter genussreiche neue Routenkreationen. Kletternde Legenden wie Albert Precht, Klaus Hoi oder Heinz Zak kommentieren ihre Leidenschaft für den steilen Fels. Routen von Klettergrößen aus lang vergangener Zeit, wie Angelo Dibona oder Hias Rebitsch, sind den modernen Anforderungen entsprechend genauestens aufgezeichnet. Und auch den neuen, mit Bohrhaken abgesicherten Routen von Kreativtalenten wie Ralf Sussmann, Rudi Kühberger oder dem Autor selber, ist viel Platz gewidmet. 40 lange Routen mit mindestens 20 Seillängen, in denen man dem Zeitgeist entsprechend Bohrhaken klinken kann, aber manchmal auch mit maroden Rostgurken Vorlieb nehmen muss.

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