Ascents in Rila

Terrifying without pads

Saw some locals trying it anf gave a flash try. Sometimes is better to trust your initial thoughts cause i saw them trying to do the crux from the right side that is a very hard beta and definitely not 6b+. Instead my thoughts where to stay on the direct to left side.

Very very beautiful especially in thr arete

Long and enjoyable

Very average and slimy first part but amazing laybacking second.

You'd better love run-outs.

Lovely traverse, done on descent from Musala after climbing the ridge from Yastrebets (mostly a walkup, with 1 short M1 section). Regular belay on the chimney, simul otherwise. We avoided the first rock tower after Musala not knowing how the descent looked like, otherwise we mostly kept to the ridge. Descent on the nw ridge of Irechek, which we abandoned maybe 2/3 in when we saw a good glissade line. Lovely day out, out before dawn, sunrise on Aleko, good snow and warm rock. I missed granite.

Plenty of run-outs

Trad 6a+ (nice one), 5b, 5b, 4a

#2go Numerous run-outs make it feel like a trad line. In general, 6a climbing, with 2 boulder problems. 1st pitch (out of 4) is >50 m but can be split in 2.

Trad

Long and beautiful. Layback at the 2nd half.

Technical

Looks terrible but its actually very nice. Bottom bit tests the smeers and the top bit is a mini chimney. Softer than 6b

Soft

2 tries last year and 2nd go today. Yellow card as i slipped on move 2 so i started with the 2nd draw clipped + also didnt go to the upper top to not drag the rope. The route is suuuuper nice. The fridge at the top is indoor style, ~6C/+ and the route below maybe 6c/+? Full rest before the boulder helps a lot.

Athletic

#2go

#2go

#2go

#2go

#2go 6b+/c

#2go

Trad p1:5b, p2:6b, p3:6a+

Trad p1:5b+, p2:5a, p3:5b, p4:4a

Very coool and consistent. Nice mantle to a slab move at the end

Intro to granite

Soft

Hard moves in the beginning. Goes left for sure on the slopers but i went right on the edge because i didnt see the holds so i think its a bit softer. The "boulder" felt super easy apart from the mantle which i walrused....

Boulderly

Hard