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Phnom Gong Kaeb

  • Grade context: US
  • Ascents: 4
  • Aka: ភ្នំកង្កែប
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Summary

A small outcrop of rock across the road from one of the bigger mountains in Northern Cambodia, Phnom Gongkaeb (Frog Mountain) is set to be develloped in late 2023.

Description

A small granite hill with large boulder like formations on the east and west sides, the main prominence is on the East. The hill is only about 160m tall, with cliffs estimated 15-20m at the highest. There are several chimney cracks going almost all the way to the ground making it exciting for exploration and development and also a little hazardous when accessign from the top (which out for cracks).

Access issues

It's out there, the only access is a very long, very bad dirt road from Kampong Thom, or a ferry from Kampong Chnang. Road not passable in fload season. Nesting owls, take caution.

Approach

Parking seems to be approved in the Wat (bhuddist temple) on the south end of the hill, the trail head is behind the large split boulder in the north-west corner of the wat. Can't miss it. Follow up the hill to the high point and find large rock formations on the east and west. Or continue all the way to the north end to see Frog rock. Please be respectful of the shrines found on top of the hill, we don't want to lose access to this new crag.

Alternative parking in the farm fields to the north, or the village to the east can be sought out at your own risk, there are trail access points in those areas as well.

Where to stay

Completely unknown, if anyone finds a homestay please shout out. There is a cleared area at one of the shrines on top of the hill wchich could be good for camping at your own risk.

History

History timeline chart

Seam Rorn, Kimsroy, and James were on their way down to Pak Lak to explore a new cliff they heard about (Kimsroy's cousin runs a campground at the base of it) and decided to go adventuring and take the ferry instead of the highway around Tonle Sap. Our intrepid explorers braved washed out dirt road, bus-sized potholes, and questionable BaiSajJrook when suddenly to the left a suspiciously boulder laden hill appeared. They side-tracked from their journey and circled the mountain to find that there was serious potential here. Future scouting missions up the hill were succesful and a plan was put in place to develop the crag in late 2023. A trip to find a new crag yielded TWO!

Routes

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Grade Route

Large offwidth (a very thin person could fit in at the bottom) in a dihedral position, with a flat slightly overhanging wall on the left. The face to the right is vertical until halfway up the climb where there is a foot sized ledge and the left wall breaks back from overhung to slab and the offwidth widens out to a chimney to a very nice sloped ledge one body height from the top. Its a sort of layback/offwidth body jamming/face crimps/chimney. Lot's of ways to approach this one.

Start in the small grass patch next to the owl barn, just south of the big white slab. There are two cave systems, the one on the right is firefly, the one on the left is dragonfly. Offwidth or layback most of the route. Low crux getting over the entrance to the firefly cave.

FA: Patrick Pujalt, 4 Jul 2023

Start in the hand crack to the right of firefly. Crack curves left halfway up to join firefly for the offwidth finish. No known attempts yet.

Honestly walking around would be a lot easier, but it's a fun little adventure to chimney straight up instead. Access chimney from the top of the white slab. There are big boulders wedged in space at intervals up the chimney which is what makes it comfortable to do without a rope.

Short hand crack. 7 meters at most, but straight splitter. Haven't seen it up close yet, only from the top of Firefly.

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Wed 24 May
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