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Summary
Sandstone
High sandstone walls along the Elbe river and its side valleys. Combination of trad routes (1990 and older, no chalk) and modern routes (glued-in bolts, chalk and better protection than the old ones).
Description
Brittle when wet
Betom XIc [Sport 8c face climb on the Left Bank] (short film, EN subtitles). eMontana.cz, 2022.
Otisk prstu IXc [Sport 7b+ crack on the Left Bank] (short film, EN subtitles). eMontana.cz, 2022.
ValleyWall Xb [Sport 7c+/8a face climb on the Left Bank] (short film, EN subtitles). eMontana.cz, 2019.
BigWall VIIIc [Trad 6b+ crack on the Right Bank] (short film, EN subtitles). eMontana.cz, 2016.
Psáno do písku - Na břehu [Written in the Sand - On the Bank] (short film). Alternative.NOW, HUDYsport, 2019. (czech)
Access issues inherited from Czechia
Nature protection
Check current restrictions before you visit crag and be respectful to the nature. Most crags are located in nature protected areas, climbing there is subject to the consent of nature protection authorities and compliance with the conditions set by them. 
Where to check:
Český horolezecký svaz - Czech Mountaineering Association: Ochrana přírody - Nature protection (czech)
Agentura ochrany přírody a krajiny ČR - Nature and Landscape Protection Agency of the Czech Republic: vyhledávač - search engine (czech)
Agentura ochrany přírody a krajiny ČR - Nature and Landscape Protection Agency of the Czech Republic: mapa - map (czech)
Skalní oblasti ČR: Moisture conditions map, climbing restrictions map (czech)
or you can directly ask Czech Mountaineering Association on email info@horosvaz.cz
Approach
Get the local climbing guidebook from HUDY Hřensko or Refugio Tisá.
Ethic
Well established
Climbing is only allowed on dry rock.
No changing of the rock surface.
No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the ring/bolts may only be filled with slings. UFOs (textile friends) are allowed.
No toproping if it may damage rock or fixed protection (allowed if you use own quickdraw as anchor point AND there is no rope friction with rock).
First ascents only after approval of the area administrator Labske udoli first ascent rules and contact is spravce-labak-pravy@seznam.cz for right side, spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz for left side.
Strict ban of using not-approved fixed equipment such as OBI "Gerüstöse".
History
#trad: typically routes created before 1990, long runouts, trad-rack needed, climbed without chalk. Check "Smyslů zbaveni" IXc with no protection in the first 30 meters.
#sport: rather new routes, bolted, shorter runouts (but still measured in metures), chalk generally used.
#grade: scale is tougher than the one in Saxon Switzerland, approximately by one point.
Climbing started in 1904 when the top of Klarka tower was reached. Climbing was developed first by German climbers and after WWII by Czechs. The rules had been very strict regarding first ascents and placing fixed protection resulting in fearless, risky but valuable #trad ascents. In mid 90s, first #sport routes were established and climbing moved rather to a high performance direction. The trend of sport routes is still viewed negatively by some trad climbers but there is no doubt that the new routes made Labské údolí the number one sport location in the Czech Republic. Both trad and sport routes coexist next to each other. Choose wisely!
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Selected Guidebooks more Hide
Author(s): Gerald Krug & Jörg Andreas
Date: 2019
ISBN: 9783981951516
This is a selective guidebook describing the rock climbing in the Labske Udoli region (or Labak in short), located in the northern part of the Czech Republic near the town of Děčín, covering over 2,200 trad and sport routes.
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Accommodations nearby more Hide
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Nearby Icons
| VI | ★★★ Labácký načínáček | ||
| VIIb | ★★★ Apollo | ||
| VIIc/VIIIa | ★★★ Varianta (Tržiště iluzí) | ||
| VIIIa | ★★ Cesta železného oře | ||
| VIIIb | ★★★ Cesta přes skobičku na obraz | ||
| VIIIc | ★★★ Perpetuum fragile | ||
| IXa | ★★★ Majolika | ||
| Xa | ★★★ Niagara |
Photos Browse all photos
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★★★ Žaludeční likér IXa - 20240327_173200.jpg
Gabriela Vrablikova on THC XIb - THC XIb.jpg
/f8/ca/f8ca3caf3378542d29c5df0e7f3a021f640f7a98)
★★★ První vráska IXc - 20240411_174259.jpg
★★ Blues pro Hitchcocka VIIIb - 20240427_Sahula.jpg
Tue 30 May
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