Ecuador Guide

A climbing area relatively close to Quito with route grades in the intermediate to expert range. Despite its proximity to Quito it is not very frequented.

description

As the area is not very frequented it is recommended to bring a machete and plenty of insect repellent.

summary

La Perrera es actualmente (a 2023) la zona más grande para practicar búlder en roca cerca de Quito. Cuenta con varios sectores y bloques de grados que van entre el v1 y v12.

Zona de búlder con bloques de diferentes estilos en una roca de muy buena calidad proveniente de erupciones históricas del volcán Cotopaxi. Se ubica a un lado del Río Pita con excelentes paisajes, senderos y cascadas.

access issues

Las usuales y normas generales de buen comportamiento. Llévate tu basura, no molestes ni destruyas la flora y fauna. Evita hacer fogatas especialmente en temporadas ventosas. Borra siempre tus marcas ("tickmarks") para no dejar un impacto visual y para que otros escaladores también tengan una buena experiencia. Si abres nuevos bloques, hazlo saber a la comunidad.

approach

Se puede llegar en auto a una hora y media de Quito. Si pones La Perrera en Google Maps te dirigirá hasta el parqueadero donde debes cancelar un valor a los propietarios por dejar ahí el auto. Es preferible ir en un auto alto y/o 4x4. Especialmente en temporada de lluvia cuando el camino puede estar un poco malo.

ethic

El lugar está compartido con turistas que van a visitar la cascada y hacer senderismo. Por lo que ellos también tienen derecho a usar cualquier área, incluidas las zonas de búlder. Si deseas escalar donde estén, pregúntalo amablemente y no intentes forzar a que se retiren de ahí. Si llevas a tu mascota, procura mantenerla contigo para que no moleste a la fauna del lugar y llévate tus desechos. Evita negociar o peor aún no pagar por el uso de parqueadero.

summary

https://www.elmuroescalada.com/

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -0.418708, -78.027122

description

From right to left.

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -1.399896, -78.452281

summary

There are several crags within close proximity of the popular tourist town of Baños de Agua Santa.

description

Most of the climbing is on Basalt in the gorge carved out by the Rio Pastaza.

access issues

Some of the crags are on private land and a visit needs to be organised beforehand.

where to stay

There are loads of hostels and hotels in the town of Baños. Some of the crags have camping.

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -1.394810, -78.424583

summary

This crag is located at the side of the road under the San Francisco bridge.

description

A small crag of around 9 or 10 routes right next to town. The topo shown at the crag differs significantly from the topo in the guide book. Some of the harder routes to the right seem to have super sketchy starts on dirty rock and mud that looks to have eroded away, with very high first bolts.

approach

Walk towards the San Fransisco Bridge but turn left just before the bridge to descend the road. Just after you walk under the bridge, the routes are on the right.

where to stay

Baños de agua santa have many RB&Bs, Hotels and camping sites were you can stay.

ethic

The locals are pretty welcoming. There are many outdoor activities you can do other than climbing.

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -1.395980, -78.438119

summary

The most popular crag close to Baños. A spectacular setting in the Canyon de Santa Baños, climbing right next to the Rio Pastaza raging through the canyon walls.

description

Climbing is on volcanic basalt, quite heavily polished by the Rio Pastaza rushing over the rock for centuries. It's made even more slippery by a thin layer of dust that often covers some of the rock. Expect lots of weird angles, slippery feet and feeling around to find the best holds. Stays in the shade almost all day and also stays dry when raining due to the upper part of the wall being inclined.

access issues

The crag is located within the Parque Aventura San Martin. Entry costs $2 per person (Dec 2022). Gear can be rented there as well (around $30 for the day).

approach

About 30 minutes walk from the centre of Baños or 5 minute drive. Head west of town to the Eco Zoologico San Martin, before reaching the Zoo you cross a small bridge over the narrow canyon walls. Continue past the entrance to the Zoo until you reach the Parque Aventura San Martin on your left (it's well signed). Head to the little office and pay your entrance fee. The staff there will point you in the right direction, following the obvious driveway to the bottom of the canyon and the climbing wall.

where to stay

There are loads of hotels and hostels in the town of Baños. There is a hostel called San Martin just before the bridge over the canyon to the Zoo.

ethic

Leave no trace, take out what you take in.

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -1.396780, -78.440705

summary

A small crag on the opposite side of the river to the Zoologico San Martin.

description

The crag is on private property but for know the acces is free. A visit needs to be arranged via their website. https://chacapamba-avispero.negocio.site/?utm_source=gmb&utm_medium=referral

access issues

The crag is on private property. A visit needs to be arranged via their website. https://chacapamba-avispero.negocio.site/?utm_source=gmb&utm_medium=referral

approach

the neighborhood name is "EL AGUACATAL" the entrance it's behind of the neighborhood sport court to the left, you need to walk across for a private tangerine plantation. and then go to down for your rigth to the wall.

where to stay

you can camping in the place

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -1.405700, -78.473672

summary

This area is located crossing the bridge called "las Juntas" in the sense of income to Baños coming forn Ambato, under the words "Baños oz Saluda" it's a amazing place with basalt hexagonal columns.

description

you can find 7 equipped line to climbing.

access issues

the area dont have a sign, the entrance its justa in the rigth before the bridge in the sense outing fron baños by the wall under the big sign "Baños oz Saluda"

approach

from the bridge walking around 5 minutes or less

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -1.404397, -78.466297

summary

A relatively new area opened in 2021. There are 2 sectors with 21 routes (as of Dec 2022). The area is on private property and a visit needs to be arranged beforehand through their social media pages.

description

Climbing is on basalt but the 2 sectors vary greatly. Van Gogh sector is on the typical river polished basalt of the area with more technical climbing on slippery holds. Sector El Oso is steeper with bigger holds and cleaner rock.

access issues

The area is on private property and a visit needs to be organised beforehand through La Kntera Social Media pages. https://www.instagram.com/p/CViqZHRvZSs/ https://www.facebook.com/laknteraec/?ref=py_c&xts&paipv=0&eav=AfahqEKQDC6_I4b9H4I7PeD2YEQiXURV5dfySi6vOWDNJ0gMMRvZ8-yQl7OAaLI1zSI&_rdr Entry is $3 per person. Camping is available as well as cabañas.

approach

About a 10 minute drive to the west of Baños. If you don't have a car, taxi is the easiest way (around $2) or any bus going west from Baños. Ask to get off at La Kantera, the staff will give you the geolocation once you have organised your visit. There is a dirt road that heads right of the main road (towards the canyon), walk down that for 200m and you'll see a house with a small La Kntera sign out the front. Check in there (sign waiver and pay $3.-) and a staff member with take you down to the crag, it's a 5 minute drive through a mining area to the crag itself. Sector El Oso is the closest to where you are dropped off, about a 10 minute walk uphill with a bit of scrambling, but not hard. The Van Gogh sector is about 20 minutes walk on a trail through dense vegetation.

where to stay

There are loads of accommodation options in Baños. La Kntera also has camping and cabañas.

ethic

Leave no trace. Take in what you take out.

Summary:

Sport climbing, Trad climbing and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: -1.463174, -78.858701

summary

There is loads of great climbing in the Riobamba/Chimborazo area, mostly easily accessible from the city.

description

The city of Riobamba sits right in the middle of some of Ecuador's most iconic volcanoes, including Chimborazo, the country's highest. Within an hour of the city there is some great sport and trad climbing to be had.

access issues

Some of the crags are on private land and require a fee to enter.

where to stay

There are plenty of hotels in Riobamba or camping is available at some of the crags.

ethic

Leave no trace.

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -1.606529, -78.651902

summary

A small crag next to the town of Guano. About 15 minutes from Riobamba.

description

Around 30 routes (a mix of sport and trad) on decent quality volcanic rock. Some routes can be a bit dirty.

access issues

There is a sign with contact details to access some of the crag (09397694416 or 032968958).

approach

About a 15 min walk from the central plaza of Guano. Head west along Calle Dr Agustin Davalos, parallel to the river. When you start to see rock to your left, look for you a dirt track that heads through a vacant paddock. You can park there, then walk down and cross the river (it was dry when we were there) then follow the various trails to the rock.

Summary:

Sport climbing, Trad climbing and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: -1.533151, -78.828836

summary

A spectacular climbing area in La Chorrera canyon right next to Chimborazo Volcano.

description

One of Ecuador's best climbing areas with a huge range of sport and trad routes. At around 3800m elevation, be prepared for cold and changeable weather.

access issues

The canyon is on private property but is freely accessible to the public at no cost.

approach

There are 2 points of entry to the canyon, both along the road to Chimborazo, about 15 minutes after the small town of San Juan. There is a bus from Riobamba Terminal Terrestre (takes about an hour) that heads to Chimborazo several times a day. Morning buses are 7.30, 8.30, 9.30 10.30am. The first entrance is at a small vendor that has a big road sign saying La Chorrera. You can park there or ask the bus to drop you off there. Walk about 200m back down the road until you see a small entrance in the fence and descend into the canyon along a pretty obvious trail. This leads to the lower part of the canyon. The second is about 500m further along the road at a restaurant/lodge called Chakana Wasi. You can park there and follow the marked trail that descends down to the upper part of the canyon.

where to stay

You can stay at the lodge Chakana Wasi for about $40 per person (inc breakfast and dinner) or camp for $5 per person. There is also camping at the lower part of the canyon. Alternatively there are many hotels in Riobamba, plus a few lodgings in nearby San Juan.

ethic

Leave no trace, take out what you take in.

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -1.703752, -79.077795

summary

Roca por el monumento de la virgen de la Lourdes por San Miguel con cinco rutas entre 6a hasta 7b

approach

Subes con carro hasta la iglesia, de ahi la pasas por la derecha hasta llegar a una gruta con el monumento de la virgen de la Lourdes. De alla sigues recto hasta que encuentres un camino que pasa por unas piedras hacia la izquierda. Subes un poco y siempre sigues este camion pequeño por 10 minutos hasta que ves la roca por la izquierda

where to stay

Hay una loma con arboles un poco mas arriba de la roca. Ahi es plano y puedes armar tu carpa

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -2.763850, -78.758239

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -4.309875, -79.549583

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -1.367081, -79.010707

summary

Una pequeña roca con tres rutas entre 5b y 6c. A small rock with routes between 5b and 6c

description

Normalmente es muy frío por ahí porque es en una altitud de más que 4000 msnm. Por la mañana el clima suele estar mejor. Normally it’s very cold up there because it’s in an hight of more than 4000m. In the morning the weather is normally better.

approach

Primero toma una camioneta a Salinas de Guaranda. En Salinas toma una otra camioneta a Simiatug. Dice al chofer que quiere salir en el diente del inca o en la intersección a Natawa. De ahí camina unos 15 minutos a la izquierda al punto más alto. Por ahí esta la roca. At first take a pickup truck to Salinas de guaranda. In Salinas take another pickup to Simiatug. Say to the driver that you want to leave at the diente del inca or in the intersection to Natawa. From there walk around 15 minutes to the left up the highest point. Up there is the rock.

Summary:

Sport climbing and Top roping

Lat / Long: -1.538042, -78.952501

summary

Padre Rumi. Roca por la laguna de las cochas

description

Roca con tres rutas, una solo en tope

approach

Con carro pasas por la laguna de las cochas de ahi hasta una comunidad que se llama el Tingo, por ahi pasas por un puente hasta una parada de Bus ahi ya ves la roca

where to stay

Puedes acampar debajo de la roca, hay protecion de viento y lluvia

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -2.760453, -78.888366

summary

One of Ecuador's most developed climbing areas and its undisputed home of multi-pitch climbing.

description

The striking 500ft volcanic cliffs of Cojitambo sit next to the sleepy town that bears the same name. The climbing is on generally good quality volcanic rock, with lots of technical slab/face climbing, but also steeper routes in some sectors.

access issues

Getting to the town Cojitambo is easy but the access trails to the rock can be a little tricky to find.

approach

Cojitambo is located just to the west of the small city of Azogues, which is about 30km from the bigger city of Cuenca. By car, it's about a 30 min drive from Cuenca, by bus it takes around an hour or more as you first have to take a bus to Azogues, then change at the terminal for the bus to Cojitambo.

where to stay

One of the local legends and developers of the area, Juan Gabriel Carrasco operates a small hostel about 1km west of the main square. Alternatively, Cuenca is a major city with a huge range of accommodation available.

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -2.764306, -78.887843

description

These 2 sectors are at the furthest left of the cliff, looking at it from town. Being 2 of the easiest sectors to access, it can be a popular place on the weekends so a good place to meet some local climbers.

approach

Walking: From the main square, follow the road at the top left of the square that runs parallel to the mountain. After a few hundred meters pass the Cementerio, then take the small road that veers right towards the rock. After about 100m, you will see a sign with a map of trails. Follow the trail that heads past 'El Chorro' and continue for around 500m to 'El Calvario'. Eventually you will see a small house and to the right of that a steep overhanging wall. This is the furthest right part of El Vallecito. follow the trail to the wall and continue along the base of the rock for the rest of the routes in these sectors.

By car: From the main square, follow the road past the Cementerio for about 1km, then turn right. Follow the road as it veers around to the right, then turn right again towards the rock after a few hundred meters. At the end of the road, it's only 100m walk to the rock and the Samborondon Sector.

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -2.762988, -78.887102

description

Great Routes, mostly sport climbs and multipitch, some traditional

approach

From Cojitambo park follow the road past the cementary to the right, after the curve to the right follow a path downhill, after about 40m steep path upwards to the right.

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -2.756724, -78.889538

description

A small sector on the backside of the mountain.

approach

If travelling by bus, ask to get off at 'La Entrada de la Montaña' (the road that leads to the summit), which is about 5 min past the town. Walk up the dirt road, past all the barking dogs and after around 500m there is a small carpark and a gate for the road to the summit. Just before the gate, take the path on the left that heads up the mountain. Eventually you will reach the dirt road again, turn left and follow the road for a few minutes until you see a garbage bin at a sharp bend in the road. This is the start of Revolcon. About 30m before the bend, there is a path that heads down through the vegetation on the left, follow this path to reach VIP.

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -2.757545, -78.889156

description

A small sector on the backside of the mountain.

approach

If travelling by bus, ask to get off at 'La Entrada de la Montaña' (the road that leads to the summit), which is about 5 min past the town. Walk up the dirt road, past all the barking dogs and after around 500m there is a small carpark and a gate for the road to the summit. Just before the gate, take the path on the left that heads up the mountain. Eventually you will reach the dirt road again, turn left and follow the road for a few minutes until you see a garbage bin at a sharp bend in the road. This is the start of Revolcon.

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -2.641560, -80.338589

description

Is the unique crag on Guayaquil, It is the a rural parish in Guayaquil. Near of the beach Villamil Playas.

access issues

There is a road from the parking area to the crag

where to stay

You can stay on Villamil Playas is around 15 minutes on car.

history

According to legend, this is considered a “heavy” place since at midnight, a music band used to be heard that surprised the nearby towns. It is also said that he was “haunted” because there it was customary to bury the dead with all their clothing, in clay vessels and that at midnight the souls went out to the church to pray, after which they returned to their grave. This is from goraymi.com

Table of contents

1. Ecuador 570 routes in Region

1.1. Ruki uku - la chimba 21 routes in Crag

1.2. Quito area 94 routes in Crag

1.2.1. Las Canteras de Cumbaya 13 routes in Crag

1.2.2. Sigsipamba 29 routes in Crag

1.2.3. Guagua Pichincha 0 routes in Crag

1.2.4. Sierra Virgen 0 routes in Crag

1.2.5. Peñas Blancas 9 routes in Crag

1.2.6. Piedras Negras 0 routes in Crag

1.2.7. El Rodadero 27 routes in Crag

1.2.8. El Hueco 15 routes in Crag

1.2.9. Santa Clara Baja 0 routes in Crag

1.2.10. Santa Clara Alta 0 routes in Crag

1.2.11. La Perrera 0 routes in Area

1.2.12. El Muro 0 routes in Gym

1.3. Cuyuja 74 routes in Crag

1.3.1. 1 11 routes in Sector

1.3.2. 2 9 routes in Sector

1.3.3. 3 7 routes in Sector

1.3.4. 4 6 routes in Sector

1.3.5. 5 9 routes in Sector

1.3.6. 6 5 routes in Sector

1.3.7. 7 11 routes in Sector

1.3.8. 8 16 routes in Sector

1.4. Baños Area 64 routes in Area

1.4.1. Pared de San Francisco 9 routes in Crag

1.4.2. Eco Zoologico San Martin 24 routes in Crag

1.4.3. Avispero & Chacapamba 1 route in Crag

1.4.4. Puente de las Juntas 9 routes in Crag

1.4.5. La Kntera 21 routes in Crag

1.5. Riobamba Area 181 routes in Area

1.5.1. Guano 36 routes in Crag

1.5.2. Acantilado de San Juan 140 routes in Crag

1.5.3. Roca de la Lourdes 5 routes in Crag

1.6. Paute 53 routes in Crag

1.7. Cerro Ahuaca 2 routes in Crag

1.8. Diente del Inca 3 routes in Crag

1.9. Padre Rumi 3 routes in Crag

1.10. Cojitambo 62 routes in Crag

1.10.1. Samborondon & El Vallecito 31 routes in Sector

1.10.2. Cucaracha 11 routes in Sector

1.10.3. VIP 7 routes in Sector

1.10.4. Revolcon 10 routes in Sector

1.10.5. Hi Chi Bajo 3 routes in Area

1.11. El Morro - Cerro el muerto 13 routes in Crag