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Summary
Welcome to one of the best crags in France (and the world?)
Description
Céüse ("say-uz") is known for long, hard and steep routes but there is something for everyone here: from steep and juggy, to vertical and technical, to bolted single pitches and trad multi-pitches...
Then there's the location: the cliffs are perched on top of a 2000m mountain with a majestic view on the south of France.
This is a great summer destination for sport climbing where you'll get to jump on classic climbs, some of historical importance such as 'Biographie', the first 9a+ in the world.
Access issues inherited from France
Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/
Approach
There's always a catch and this is it: the walk-in is a real pain which will take between 45m and an hour depending on much stuff you carry and how fit you are. From the campsite, follow a marked site passed a horse shed until you reach a well-worn path leading upwards. Follow this past a staggered junction on a forest track until you get to a track that contours several hundred meters below the crag.
Where to stay
Campsite "Camping Les Guerins" located some way beneath the crag.
Ethic
Leave no trace.
History
Patrick Edlinger is believed to have been one of the first to recognise the importance of Ceuse for "futuristic" climbs. He was convinced after running around the cliff and brought some friends to start bolting hard routes. Not having much money to buy bolts, their routes were often pretty run-out but soon enough, Ceuse attracted strong climbers from all over the world.
Chris Sharma made the historic ascent of 'Biographie' in 2001 (bolted by Jean-Christophe Lafaille in 1989, 'first part' freed by Arnaud Petit that same year). The full route was later graded 9a+.
Plan your Trip
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Selected Guidebooks more Hide
Author(s): Rolland Marie & Laurent Girousse
Date: 2023
ISBN: 9782958860509
The semi-circular, nearly endless wall of Céüse offers some 750 single pitches - some multi-pitches as well as traditionally equipped routes / difficulties from 5 to 9.
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Author(s): Laurent Girousse
Date: 2023
This latest edition features all the routes on the cliff: 900 pitches spread across 37 sectors and sub-sectors. Each one is accompanied by a photo and route illustration. Various approaches are described precisely and supported by panoramic photos. For 25 years, this cliff has been a part of the global high-level climbing scene, mainly known for its challenging to extreme routes. However, nowadays, Céüse is no longer exclusive to the elite, as several recently re-bolted sectors allow everyone to enjoy this exceptional wall.
The author of this guidebooks, Laurent Girousse, is one of the main bolters of the crags around Gap.
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Author(s): L. Girousse
Date: 2022
Many sport climbing routes and long multi-pitches - from Dévoluy to Champsaur to Buëch and Méouge, the south of the Hautes-Alpes offers a great variety of climbing areas in magnificent landscapes.
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Accommodations nearby more Hide
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Nearby Icons
| 5b | ★★★ Pour les d'jeunes | ||
| 6a | ★★ Katina | ||
| 6a+ | ★★ Papyrus | ||
| 6b | ★★ Marylou | ||
| 6b+ | ★★ Harley Davidson | ||
| 6c | ★★★ Zagreb | ||
| 6c+ | ★★★ La Reine Des Pommes | ||
| 7a | ★★★ La Javanaise | ||
| 7a+ | ★★★ Angel Dust | ||
| 7b | ★★★ Lapinerie | ||
| 7b+ | ★★★ Blocage Violent | ||
| 7c | ★★★ Vagabond d'occident | ||
| 7c+ | ★★★ Mirage | ||
| 8a | ★★★ Carte Blanche | ||
| 8a+ | ★★★ Sueurs Froides | ||
| 8b | ★★★ La Chirurgien Du Crepuscule | ||
| 8c | ★★★ Dures Limites | ||
| 9a | ★★★ Le Cadre (New Version) | ||
| 9a+ | ★★★ Biographie |
Photos Browse all photos
Fredrik Eckardt at Céüse - ceuse.jpg
Alex Megos on Bibliography 9b+ - Reaching high
Lee Cujes on ★★★ Blocage Violent 7b+
Josh Ellis on ★★★ Bibendum 7b+ - 301531908_2029869320538777_6121304022745318043_n.jpg
Wed 10 May
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