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Description
Frankenjura is Germany's 2nd largest climbing area and a world-class sport climbing destination with a quite long history. In this large area in northern Bavaria, between the cities of Bamberg, Bayreuth and Nuremberg, there are approximately 1,000 different crags spread out in a pitoresque landscape of forested valleys and mediaval villages. Apart from climbing, don't forget to excessively test the excellent local beer and solid food.
The majority of the routes at Frankenjura are short powerful single pitch sport routes on excellent quality grey limestone. Most routes are either vertical or overhanging, finger pockets are very common. The best time to climb at Frankenjura is spring and autumn, but summer is also fine since many of the crags are hidden in the forest.
Access issues
Frankenjura has an established zone concept regulating whether a rock is allowed and if yes, how: https://ig-klettern.org/naturschutz/zonierungen/
For seasonal closures of crags, see: https://ig-klettern.org/naturschutz/aktuelle-sperrungen/
For bouldering, check first: https://ig-klettern.org/klettern/wissenswertes/boulderappell/. Especially, no publishing of boulders, and no bouldering after sunset.
Approach
Coming from abroad it is probably best to fly into Munich and rent a car. As the crags are spread out over a fairly large area having a car is strongly recommended anyways.
Check the many crags for more detailed information on access.
For a detailed description on how to reach Frankenjura by fair means visit the Ecopoint Web-Site.
Where to stay
Especially in the northern Frankenjura one can find plenty of rather cheap holiday appartments. Camping is another popular option. The legendary Oma Eichler campground in the Trubachtal is a meeting point for climbers since many years.
History
A lot! Especially in the 80's, Frankenjura was the destination for hard-core climbing. You can find here the world’s first 8c ('Wallstreet') and 9a ('Action directe' 1991) and many more ultra classics. Frankenjura was also the birth-place of the redpoint concept, established by Kurt Albert † in the mid 70s.
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Did you know that you can create an account to record, track and share your climbing ascents? Thousands of climbers are already doing this.
Selected Guidebooks more Hide
Author(s): Sebastian Schwertner
Date: 2021
Band 1 des Gesamtwerkes für den nördlichen Teil der fränkischen Schweiz - auf 584 Seiten werden 6100 Routen vorgestellt. Zusammen mit Band 2 ergeben das mehr als 1150 Seiten genaue Informationen zu den über 12.600 Routen des Nördliche Frankenjura …
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Nearby Icons
| 3 | ★★★ Schda-Wurf | ||
| 3+ | ★★ Stier | ||
| 4- | ★★★ Rübezahl | ||
| 4+ | ★★ Barbarelli-Weg | ||
| 5 | ★★ La belle du jour | ||
| 5+ | ★ Boulderwandl | ||
| 6- | ★★ Annelore | ||
| 6 | ★★★ Biber | ||
| 7- | ★★★ Schaumschläger | ||
| 8- | ★★ Isolation | ||
| 8 | ★★★ Dampfhammer | ||
| 9- | ★★★ Dumbo |
Photos Browse all photos
Inga on ★★★ Sautanz 9- - Frankenjura Classic
Herzogenreuther Wand - IMG_6941.jpg
Tobias Auth at Links
Tue 9 May
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