Ascents in Schwäbische Alb as Onsight by Kai

Für Hiltrun Buck

Netter Kamin. Gut um den ganzen Körper aufzuwärmen.

So ineffizient den Anfang geklettert,aber es waren genug Körner bis zum Schluß übrig.

Gut aber zu kurz

Zick Zack Kurs. Bin oben ausgestiegen. Ablassen macht keinen Sinn. Schlecht für das Seil.

Okay, to warmup or to reach the belay of Kaltfront.

Notiz an mich selbst: Gärtnerwerkzeug mitbringen.

Ein Trip in die Unterwelt 😉 Stalagmiten und Stalagtiten lassen grüßen. Der Start ist für ne 3 zu schwer... Eine Stirnlampe ist hilfreich um alle Details der Höhle und die Haken zu entdecken.

#volltrauf2022

#volltrauf2022

#volltrauf2022

#volltrauf2022

With P1 of 'Neue Route'

And again a mega rope length. Very long and the rope routing is a challenge. Maybe it makes sense to divide the first pitch to not have so much drag on the rope. But it was okay. The hardest part is the beginning. There are plenty of bolts. That is quite plaisir. After that, the bolt spacing becomes greater, but the climbing is also easier. Which does not mean that it is less appealing. The second pitch I absolutely still have to climb. Volunteer belayers ahead

A little bit brittle but not as dirty as the guidebook states. Basically solo, no idea if my mother would have held me.

As the neighbor route a little bit brittle. Undercling start, then a reachy move to a jug left of the first bolt. Basically solo, no idea if my mother would have held me.

Both pitches in one push. Great climb.

Überraschend gute Route die hier noch rein gequetscht wurde. Der Einsieg wird für 6er Kletterer vermutlich schon die Crux darstellen. Im Bruch wird es dann leichter. Zum Schluss nochmal schwieriger.

Well, very good trad climb between 'Hans im Glück' and 'Traumwand'. I used the belay anchors of 'Traumwand' to improve my safety because the placements looked not good. Placed two bad nuts and one sling before I reached the last bolt before the anchor. Between the placements I took quite a long run-out. #braveheart

Trad

Second attempt with success. As I had already onsighted the 2nd pitch I was not motivated enough today. I felt that the 2nd is harder than the others. But maybe I just did a stupid job. The third pitch is also great. In contrast to the second one, it requires more endurance because it is continuously difficult. The crack is finger-width at the beginning and a really good fist clamp is waiting at the last hook. Thank God, because without it the on sight attempt would have failed. I had almost used up all my grains. Shortly before sunset I reached the rock head happy and exhausted. Great route.

Hiltrun Buck followed at dusk and made it to the exit. During her ascent I could enjoy the nature and the peace at this time of day. It was wonderful to see the falcons flying under me and the Danube flowing. Hopefully this was not the last beautiful afternoon in the Däle.

Mega climb, love it. Nuts, laybacks and jugs. #lastrouteoftheday

Hab ich mich über die alten Sanduhrschlingen gefürchtet. Muss ich unbedingt beim nächsten Mal austauschen. Der Riss am Anfang war wie immer verkrampft.

Wie geil ist das denn. Erste 7- Onsight im Däle. Yeah.