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Abantes Buttress

  • Grade context: FR
  • Photos: 2
  • Ascents: 1
1
FR
6c+

Seasonality

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Description

This is the strikingly clean wall on the "left" (south) side of the lower valley. Named after the first known inhabitants of Euboea/Evia.

Approach

2.15km (1.33m) Expect 1-1.5 hrs

Park here: (38.53740, 24.04107)

Climb here: (38.53683, 24.02509)

Hike down the dirt road and follow cairns around a small grove of olive trees. Soon after, take a right at the split on flat terrain. Follow cairns past many features along the north side of the mountain (the bulk of the hike). Continue past To Reloi and across another scree field. At the split go upward more or less following the cliff line and some cairns.

Ethic inherited from Manikia

Avoid wild camping, do not lite fires and do not leave any waste or rubbish to ensure long term access to this climbing area.

Routes

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Grade Route

This is a quality boltipitch route with long crux pitches on fantastic and varied limestone. Following along the right edge of the wall, Geia Sas Arete (Greek for "hello") is characterized by technical crimping and tricky footwork on vertical and over-vertical terrain. To keep things interesting there are also a few tastes of stemming and steep jugs. The final ~40m, while easy, offer an exciting alpine ridge-like experience. The summit of which is an exposed finale to a wonderful day of climbing.

The route remains in the shade all morning long. Sun first hits the wall in the early afternoon. The solitude and sunset views of Manikia and the surrounding cliffs cannot be beat. Just don’t forget a headlamp for the hike out!

P1 6c+, 40m, 15 bolts Nice warmup jugs lead straight up a rock scar and into some tricky pockets. Enjoy a no hands rest before following the groove out left and up through sustained 6b climbing. An acute crux leads to a sinker pocket and more 6b. Belay on a big comfortable ledge.

P2 5c, 20m, 6 bolts Easy cracks and face climbing with some shattered rock. Belay at a great stance. Easily linked with P1 if you have a few extra draws or skip/back-clean.

P3 6c+, 40m, 18 bolts A long pitch with two distinct cruxes separated by 6b climbing and a couple great rests. Come prepared for a few steep jugs and endless technical crimping. This is a very proud onsight for any 6c+ climber. Belay at an okay stance out left.

P4 6b, 40m, 10 bolts Tackle the awesome orange roof using hidden jugs and pinches. Then, fly up the airy broken arete. Belay on a huge comfortable ledge.

P5 5a, 20m, 6 bolts Alpine style ridge to the summit. Belay on a small ledge on top of the world!

Descent Walk off the top following cairns. Expect 1hr. Rappelling is possible with an 80m rope but could be difficult from above pitch 5 due to the rope possibly snagging on horns.

PRO 18 draws, 80m rope

FA: Dakota Walz & Nick Weicht, 4 May 2022

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Olivier Aubel, Romain Gendey, and Nicolas Glee

Date: 2024

A comprehensive guidebook describing the sport climbing found at Manikia, covering over 420 routes from F4 to F9a.

Author(s): Manikia - Project

Date: 2022

This is a comprehensive guidebook describing the sport climbing found at Manikia, covering over 350 routes from F4 to F9a.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Sat 27 May
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