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Urðaviti

  • Grade context: US

Summary

Basalt crack climbing on the beach

Description

Basalt cliffline capped by scoria from the eruptions on Hiemæy island in the westman islands.

Approach

Take ferry to Vestmannaeyjar and drive or walk north of town along road through lava debris out toward the landfill and urðaviti lighthouse. Park in the pullout near the lighthouse and access the gully nearest the lighthouse where theres a break in the cliff band possible to scramble down to beach via broken tables and blocks of scoria which transition into basalt cracks and overhangs. Pay close attention to the tides

Where to stay

Stay in town. Camping and accomodation is available on the other side of Heimæy

Ethic

All routes traditionally protected with natural anchors built and removed on top. No bolting for proximity to the sea for corrosion. Exc: titanium. Scoria blocks above are easily slung.

Routes

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Grade Route

The fingers to hands to squeeze chimney crack on the north side of the beach around the corner from the scramble. If you stay left at the beginning it might be closer to 10+ but you can ditch the finger locks/smearing and make an easy move out right into a 4" crack early on to keep the grade low. The chimney gets progressively easier till the top when you worm through the scratchy grabby cloth shredder.

FA: cass bindrup & dalan faulkner, 18 Aug 2022

The ring lock stemming crack climbers right of þrjósk brjálæði

FA: cass bindrup, 18 Aug 2022

Warning Fixed Gear: Watch the tide

More of a toprope boulder. Climbs the polished flare from a scoop that looks like a wavy capital letter P near the top. Link a few hard moves that require body tension. Its like a V5 maybe 6 boulder but the flare doesn't take gear.

Maint: cass bindrup, 18 Aug 2022

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Author(s): J.B. Björnsson

Date: 2022

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Wed 24 May
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