The route follows an independent line of holds between Pappagorgia and In Bilico.
As Zeni describes it: "it starts with a dyno followed by a not all too difficult boulder problem that leads past the small roof at the base of Bilico. The slab is relatively easy but the crimps are never really good enough to rest properly. The crux is located in the middle, 4 really small crimps which require perfect footwork. The route doesn’t let up and at 3/4 height there’s another finger crux. Despite being short, there are nevertheless 52 moves. The bolting respects the other climbs at the crag, so it’s fairly runout and although it’s never dangerous, it’s not possible to aid AO your way up. The route is interesting also because, unlike the other climbs, when I bolted it I decided not to place an abseil chain at the top. Instead, you have to mantle over the lip, untie and walk easily back down to the base of the crag."
Route setter: Alessandro Zeni | |
18 Nov 2018 | First free ascent: Alessandro Zeni |
9a+ | Assigned grade |
9a+ | private |
Author(s): Gruppo Scoiattoli
Date: 2021
ISBN: 9791280483096
A comprehensive guidebook covering the sport climbing found around Cortina in the heart of the Dolomites, describing over 1,000 mainly single pitch sport routes at 28 crags, including Cinque Torri, Crepe de Oucera and Landro.
Author(s): Guido Colombetti
Date: 2021
ISBN: 9788855470599
Dies ist der erste Auswahl-Kletterführer der das Gebiet der Dolomiten komplett abdeckt. 105 Klettergebiete wurden ausgewählt und aufgenommen - Vom Grödental über Gadertal bis hin zu den Friauler Dolomiten, Agordino und Primiero di Cadore; eine Auswahl der schönsten und lohnendsten Klettergärten.
Author(s): Alessio Conz
Date: 2020
ISBN: 9788855470179
Die Dolomiten sind der Traum eines jeden Kletterers. In diesem Kletterführer findet ihr 130 moderne Sportrouten bis 7a in den, für diese Art der Kletterei am meisten entwickelten Dolomiten–Gruppen.
Get a detailed insight with a timeline showing
Login to see the timeline!