Comici is popular doing the August holidays and can get crowded. September and October are also a good time to climb but it will be colder; the advantage is that you are likely to have the route to yourself - less risk of rock fall or being stuck behind a slow party.
8-12 hours ascent
2-3 hours descent
Recommended gear: rack of nuts (1-10), a few small to medium cams, 16 draws, head torch, plenty of water and food, belay jackets.
Start early - many people climb the first two pitches in the dark, arriving at the first crux pitch as it gets light. Helpful if you stay on route.
Afternoon thunderstorms are dangerous. It is possible to retreat via abseiling during the first eight pitches, but after that, escape is much more difficult.
Pitch is not bolted (apart from 1 ancient 6mm (??) bolt right at the beginning). Pitch 2 and 3 are well bolted (with old, but not ancient bolts). Pitch 4 is slightly bolted: Warning: don't go straight up, but towards left (wrong topo in the New Age guidebook). Pitch 5 and 6 are unbolted.
Via nuova che si sviluppa lungo uno spigolo secondario della Tofana di Rozes formato da tre balzi di roccia che formano una grande torre staccata dalla parete del Primo Spigolo. La via è attrezzata con chiodi ad espansione lungo la via e soste su spit e catena
Set:Mario Dibona, Andrea Bacchin & Armando Nascè, 20 Sep 2019
