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Pietra Filosofale

Seasonality

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Description

New crag bolted in 2006 in a fantastic place. Three faces on a green grass area.

Approach

==[it]==

Avvicinamento: breve, partendo dalla casa del fondo di Ceresole che si raggiunge tramite un bivio sulla sinistra salendo ottocento metri dopo la galleria. Si parcheggia e si attraversa il ponte sull’Orco ed in cima alla salita a sinistra in discesa oltrepassare una casa vacanze, andare a destra ed in breve si è davanti al “masso”. Le vie variano da pochi metri nel lato sud a una ventina di metri sul lato nord. Tecnica la scalata di dita su tacche tipica valle Orco, alcune fessure e corti strapiombi. Da segnalare un curioso camino che “spacca in due“ la pietra e che si può salire in moulinette o con attenzione slegati (otto metri). Carino accompagnare i neofiti all’interno del camino attraverso una corda fissa sul lato sud attaccata ad un alberello, ingresso nel camino e uscita in cima alla pietra: si attraversa il camino stesso sulla sommità e si scende sul lato opposto le vie su fissa (meglio se legati).

Ethic inherited from Valle Orco

Renowned for its incredible crack systems, there is a predominantly clean climbing ethic in Valle Orco.

Bolts
are often placed for anchors & abseils, but are otherwise strongly discouraged where natural protection can be placed.

Even so, there are a fair number of sport/bolted climbs in the valley. Talk to local climbers/guides before considering putting in bolts, bolts are permanent.

Some classics crack climbs, bolted in mania of sport climbing in the 80's/90's, have since had their bolts removed.

Routes

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Grade Route

5a iniziale, ma con sorpresa dopo il ribaltamento

Arête, then chimney.

fessure, presone e fessure

Sorprendente camino di 8 metri con catena per corda dall'alto

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): P. Seimandi

Date: 2020

100 selected crack climbs from completely drilled through to completely self belaying, from 6 m to 160 m.

Author(s): P. Seimandi

Date: 2020

ISBN: 9788894526516

A selective guidebook describing over 100 of the best crack climbs in the Orco Valley ranging in difficulty from F4c through to F8b, and from 6m to 160m long.

Author(s): M. Oviglia

Date: 2010

This climbing guide describes climbing gardens close to the valley as well as the well-known alpine walls of the Sergent, Caporal and at the Colle del Nivolet.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Sat 27 May
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