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Grotta dell'Edera

19

Seasonality

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Summary

Accessed from sector 'Parete Dimenticata' through a steep 30m tunnel in a cave. A head torch is strongly recommended. An amazing cylinder and nice climbs. The entry hole is considered to be at 6 o'clock for description.

Approach

From Finale/Finalborgo, take the SP17 towards Calice Ligure. After about 2 km, take a sharp right turn (Via di Perti Alto). Follow the uphill road for 2.5 km until the chapel Sant'Eusobio. Park in front of the church (44.1829, 8.3194). Your guidebook might indicate to drive further, but the road has been blocked for touristic traffic (2022) due to too many campers blocking the road.

Continue on the road for 1.1 km, until a bridge on the right with signs to the Sant Antonio trail. Cross the bridge and continue on the path between the houses (Case Valle). Follow the uphill trail marked by three red dots. After 8-10 min, find a small trail branching off left downhill (yellow dot on a tree). Follow this trail, which passes the base of sector 'Placca delle Case Valle'. Follow the trail marked by yellow dots, Shortly after passing through a small groove, you will reach the right end of sector 'Parete Dimenticata' with a big cave entrance between the routes 'Un minotauro in ballerine' and 'Le corna non fan peso'. In the cave, keep to the right and climb up a fixed rope (headlamp, helmet and good shoes recommended!). At the top, you cross to the left to a small hole (1m) through which you reach the 'Grotta dell`Edera'.

Routes

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Grade Route

Starts just left of 'Camera con vista', crossing the roof of the window to the anchors of 'Rank Xerox'.

Set: Domenico Spatari, 2017

FA: Domenico Spatari, 2017

At 9oclock just right of vine, starting up a pocketed rib

Set: N. Accame & M. Brichetto, 1991

The central line in the small chapel. Vertical / slightly overhanging on big holds and tufas, exit a bit pumpy.

Set: N. Accame & M. Brichetto, 1991

Set: Unknown

Starts up vertical, left of 'Prana'. At the top, traverses to the left, all the way to the window, joining 'Blu macaco' through to the roof to the anchors of 'Rank Xerox'.

Set: Domenico Spatari, 2017

FA: Domenico Spatari, 2017

Downgraded to 6b+ in newer guides, but mistakenly due to a labeling error that lead to confusion with the neighboring 6b. At least 6c+ and even harder for the short. Starts 1m right of 'Shokada', up into the steep groove towards the tree on the right, then left to the anchors.

Set: U. Gellersen, 2007

Starts opposite the entry hole and climbs a crack-groove system. In March 2017, the first two bolts were loose, and there's a small hourglass with a fixed sling supplementing the first bolt.

Set: W. Winkler, 2010

Starts opposite of the entrance hole. Up two bolts, then move left and up into the wide pocketed groove.

Set: A. Bogenschütz, 2006

Set: L. Cavanna & A. Sanzo, 2006

Beautiful line. An easier first half leads up to an open chimney with spaced but good pockets and a thin technical crux. Save some energy for the finish.

Set: N. Accame & M. Brichetto, 1991

Starts up the big flake just right of 'Lubna' (name written on the wall).

FA: Luca Biondi, 2017

Set: Luca Biondi, 2017

Set: A. Quaglia & Luca Biondi, 2017

Warning Fixed Gear: Loose Bolt

Good climb marred by run out bolting with ground fall potential and a high crux that is more like 6b+. Starts up the groove at 3 o'clock from the entry hole. The name scratched into the rock.

Set: K. Hofman & E. Melzer, 1999

Set: N. Accame & M. Brichetto, 1991

FA: A. Gallo

Set: A. Gallo & B. Belmonte, 1992

Starts in the arch left of the window and crosses the neighboring 'Viaggio a Kalyoblya' to the right.

FA: Luca Biondi, 2017

Set: Maurizio Marcassoli, 2017

FA: Lorenzo Fornaro

Set: N. Accame, M. Brichetto & R. Gamba, 1991

Set: M. Carena, L. Biondi, P. Starnini & D. Re, 1987

Starts just left of the entrance hole. Up a crack onto a slab, then steps left across the tufa into the roof.

Set: N. Accame & M. Brichetto, 1991

Information needed

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Marco “Thomas” Tomassini

Date: 2022

ISBN: 9788855470834

Finale ist ein besonderer und magischer Ort: wild, rau, landschaftlich einfach außergewöhnlich - und eines der bekanntesten und besten Klettergebiete überhaupt. Über 200 Sektoren und mehr als 4000 Routen - Kletterstoff für Jahre.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Sat 27 May
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