Ibaraki Ken Guide

Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. Ibaraki Ken 148 routes in Region

1

1 Kasama Boulder

Summary:

J

F

M

A

M

J

J

A

S

O

N

D

Seasonality

Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: 36.310604, 140.325951

access issues

Some spots have access issues as many spots near crowded places elsewhere. So please ensure you follow the recommendations of local climbers and behave responsibly.

inherited from Japan

ethic

There`s not a lot of information about climbing in Japan in English. Much of the information is only available in Japanese - or of course here on theCrag!

The Japan Free Climbing Association (http://freeclimb.jp/seibi/seibi.htm) is a good point of contact and there is a set of 5 guidebooks (all in Japanese) and an alpine guide book in English available covering all of Japan and its thousands of sport and trad routes and boulders.

http://www.yamakei.co.jp/products/2811180810.html

https://www.amazon.com/Classic-Alpine-Climbs-Japan-Climb-ebook/dp/B01ARU5KR0

inherited from Japan

1.1. Kasama Boulder 148 routes in Crag

4 1

1 Main Area 4 Daikoku Area - Climbing Prohibited

Summary:

Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: 36.382650, 140.268132

summary

Granite bouldering. Mostly short problems with reasonable landings in the 5-7C range. Accessible by train or car from Tokyo. Best visited in winter. Climbing on the Daikoku Boulder is now banned.

description

Slopers, smears and stiff grades are to be found at this venue. The rock is compact granite and offers many good problems. Some are classics in Japan, such as Emotion (7A), Heartbeat Arete (6B+), Love Touch (6A+) and Q-Ban (7C).

The main climbing season is December to early March, when low temps and humidity levels give rise to good friction. Mosquitoes can make this venue unbearable outside this main period.

There is no toilet at the crag or the car park. The nearest toilet is in the parking lot for the Kasama Inari Shrine (稲荷駐車場). This can be found on the left on the road taking you back to Kasama town centre from the Daikoku Boulder, about 250m from where it meets a T-junction.

A small number of highballs take route grades and can be protected by trad gear. Some have fixed pro, but exercise caution as much of it is in poor condition.

An excellent topo in Japanese is available at: https://www.yumpu.com/nl/document/view/7686490/kasama

access issues

• Minimize the amount of chalk you use.
• Clean all chalk off problems at the end of the day.

• Use pads to protect the ground against erosion.

• The Sen-nin Tamari car park (千人溜駐車場) is currently closed due to the fall of a number of trees in a recent typhoon. The car park will remain closed until the local municipality have finished monitoring the stability of the remaining trees and carried out any necessary safety works. In the meantime, the dirt car park just below the Daikoku Boulder is available for anyone to use.

• Climbing on the Daikoku Boulder has been prohibited since December 2017. The local municipality instigated the ban as the close proximity to the road made climbing a danger for passing traffic, and because climbers were leaving the boulder looking a mess covered with chalk. Stay away from this boulder. Future violations by climbing the Daikoku Boulder, or continued excessive use of chalk in other sectors, may lead to a ban against all climbing at Kasama.

approach

By car: Exit the Kita-Kanto Expressway at Tomobe IC. Park at the dirt car park just below the Daikoku Boulder (free).

By train: Nearest station is 'Kasama' on the JR Mito Line. From there it is 35 mins pleasant walk to the main area.

1.1.1. Main Area 119 routes in Field

Summary:

Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: 36.381467, 140.268897

1.1.2. Sango Area 12 routes in Field

Summary:

All Bouldering

description

A small area beneath the paved road/path that contours around Mount Sashiro at mid-height. Home to the Sango (Coral), Inyou and No-name A boulders.

approach

From where the road curves sharply just below the Hip and Sunshine boulders, follow a path cutting through the trees downhill. The first boulder you will probably see is the distinctive Sango (Coral) boulder.

1.1.3. Udauda Area 0 routes in Field

description

An area set slightly away from the bouldering on Mount Sashiro consisting mainly of the Udauda Boulder.

1.1.4. Daikoku Area - Climbing Prohibited 17 routes in Field

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 36.386195, 140.265564

description

Climbing in this area has been banned since December 2017.