Granite formations scattered through a national park, known for excellent trad climbing and bouldering but also has a sport climbing sector.
Almost every type of climbing is represented at Mizugaki, at least in some small area, except for much beginner climbing. Quality climbing starts around 5.9 for multipitch trad routes and 10a for sport routes, and continues to extremely hard, extremely bold, world class trad pitches.
There is an English guidebook available that presents a subset of the best areas (still far more climbs than are here on thecrag, and detailed approach instructions with pictures, topos etc). It can be bought from the Pump online shop: https://pump.ocnk.net/product/10122 (may not ship outside Japan) or at Pump gyms in Tokyo.
Some spots have access issues as many spots near crowded places elsewhere. So please ensure you follow the recommendations of local climbers and behave responsibly.
Park at the main Mizugaki trailhead/campsite/kiosk for most areas, find as "Mount Mizugaki" on Google Maps.
The campground at the base is the most popular place to stay. There are also some mountain huts & guesthouses within a 10-15 minute drive, though these may be difficult to book without speaking Japanese. There are larger towns with a wide range of accommodation 30-40 minutes away.
There`s not a lot of information about climbing in Japan in English. Much of the information is only available in Japanese - or of course here on theCrag!
The Japan Free Climbing Association (http://freeclimb.jp/seibi/seibi.htm) is a good point of contact and there is a set of 5 guidebooks (all in Japanese) and an alpine guide book in English available covering all of Japan and its thousands of sport and trad routes and boulders.
http://www.yamakei.co.jp/products/2811180810.html
https://www.amazon.com/Classic-Alpine-Climbs-Japan-Climb-ebook/dp/B01ARU5KR0
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5.11a | ★★★ Gonbei 2 | ||
5.11b | ★★★ Canoe | ||
5.13a | ★★★ Cosmos |
Takahiro on ★★ Pegasus 5.11a - IMGP2907.JPG
Kame Iwa crack 5.10a - Kame iwa crack
Mizugaki Yama - sky
Mizugaki Yama - Koyasuri
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