A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
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Table of contents
- 1.
Gozen Iwa / Gozen Yama / 御前山
57 in Crag
- 1.1. エレファントロック東面 / Elephant Rock East Side 11 in Area
- 1.2. エレファントロック北面 / Elephant Rock North side 16 in Area
- 1.3. エレファントロック南面 / Elephant Rock South Side 14 in Area
- 1.4. Dragon Rock / ドラゴンロック 11 in Area
- 1.5. Castle Rock / キャッスルロック 3 in Area
- 2. Index by grade
1. Gozen Iwa 57 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 35.825728, 139.077709
description
Amazing limestone crag 2 hours from Tokyo. A hidden gem in the middle of Okutama, this area has everything for intermediate and advanced climbers. Famous for Soul Mate 9b, the hardest route in Japan opened by Sachi Amma in 2018 this crag will give you plenty of hard challenges and problems. With short and long routes (up to 30meters), anything from 6b to 9b grades, an easy access with public transportation, and good sun exposure, this is a must-visited area for climbers in the region.
A lot of work has been done to make the place easily accessible, nice, and comfortable. Please respect it by being nice, taking your trash back with you, and using the restroom at the climbing center.
access issues
Please visit the Oku-Tama Climbing Center before visiting the crag (situated after the restroom on your left before crossing the bridge to go to the crag; you can also find it by searching: 奥多摩クライミングセンター on google maps) In front of the climbing center building, there is a small wooden box that you can open. You will find a notebook and some envelopes inside. Please register your name and starting time in the notebook when arriving and leaving time when leaving the place. Please add your name on an envelope, add 500JPY in the envelope and insert it inside the wooden box. Please add an additional 500JPY if you use the parking.
Please respect these small rules that allow us to enjoy an amazing crag that has been through a lot of work to be climbable by the community.
approach
Take the Chuo Line from Tokyo to Oku-Tama station. Then take bus 21 in front of the station. Ride 6 stops until Osawa 大沢 bus stop. Walk in the direction of the small bridge and go left before crossing to visit the Climber Center (after the toilet). When you have registered your name and paid the access fees, cross the bridge and turn directly right on a small hiking path. Turn left at the first intersection and you will arrive at the crag (around 10min walking from the bridge).
ethic
There`s not a lot of information about climbing in Japan in English. Much of the information is only available in Japanese - or of course here on theCrag!
The Japan Free Climbing Association (http://freeclimb.jp/seibi/seibi.htm) is a good point of contact and there is a set of 5 guidebooks (all in Japanese) and an alpine guide book in English available covering all of Japan and its thousands of sport and trad routes and boulders.
http://www.yamakei.co.jp/products/2811180810.html
https://www.amazon.com/Classic-Alpine-Climbs-Japan-Climb-ebook/dp/B01ARU5KR0
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Maturity / DW-Project
First 5.15 in Japan. FFA: Sachi Amma, 21 Dec 2017 | 5.15a | ||||
| 2 |
Soul Mate / Elephant Rock Project / ERProject
According to Sachi Amma, the crux part is really bouldery and reachy. It is V14/8b+ for me. But it can be V13/8b or V15/8c by physique and ability. Set: Sachi Amma, Dec 2017 FFA: Sachi Amma, 25 Mar 2018 | 5.15b | ||||
1.1. エレファントロック東面 11 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 35.825539, 139.077774
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ★★ LOL route / 大爆笑ルート | {FR} 7a+ | 17m, 7 | |||
| 2 | ★★ Iwakiniwa / 岩近岩 | {FR} 8a | 20m, 11 | |||
| 3 | ★ Calorie mate / カロリーメイト | {FR} 6c+ | 20m, 12 | |||
| 4 | Meat Tech / ミートテック | {FR} 6b | 20m, 10 | |||
| 5 | ★★ わがままボディ | {FR} 7a | 28m | |||
| 6 | ★★ ハートブレイク | {FR} 6b+ | 28m | |||
| 7 | ★★ APA | {FR} 7b | 30m, 10 | |||
| 8 | Regime du Docteur Meiji / Dr.メイジ | {FR} 8a | 28m | |||
| 9 | ★★ ハーケンクロイツ | {FR} 6c+ | 16m | |||
| 10 | WENDE / ウェンデ | {FR} 8a+ | 27m | |||
| 11 | ★★★ アスリーツボディ | {FR} 7c+ | 26m | |||
1.2. エレファントロック北面 16 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 35.825764, 139.077626
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★★ Soul Mate
FA: Sachi Amma | {FR} 9b | 20m, 8 | |||
| 2 | ★★ GYA-GYA | {FR} 8a | 13m, 6 | |||
| 3 |
★★★ Pachinko Game / パチンコゲーム
FA: Marc Le Menestrel | {FR} 8b+ | 23m, 11 | |||
| 4 |
★★ Doppler Effect / ドップラー効果
FA: Yuji Hirayama | {FR} 8b | 18m, 6 | |||
| 5 |
★ Berlin Wall / ベルリンの壁
FA: Yuji Hirayama | {FR} 7c+ | 12m, 4 | |||
| 6 |
★★★ Time Machine
FA: Yuji Hirayama | {FR} 8c+ | 12m, 6 | |||
| 7 |
★★★ Climb Machine
FA: Yuji Hirayama | {FR} 8c+ | 17m, 7 | |||
| 8 |
★★ One Voice One Team
FA: Yuji Hirayama | {FR} 8a+ | 15m, 6 | |||
| 9 | ★★★ 89th Constellation / 89番目の星座 | {FR} 7c+ | 20m, 8 | |||
| 10 | ★ Big Wednesday / ビッグウェンズデー | {FR} 7b | 8m, 4 | |||
| 11 | ★★ Move Mania / ムーブマニア | {FR} 7b | 8m, 4 | |||
| 12 | ★ Vertere | {FR} 7c | 13m, 4 | |||
| 13 | ★★ Bancho / 番長 | {FR} 8b | 27m, 9 | |||
| 14 | ★★ Honor / 誉 | {FR} 8a+ | 27m, 9 | |||
| 15 | ★★ Cerveza / セルベザ | {FR} 7b+ | 26m, 9 | |||
| 16 | ★★ Hulder / ハルドラ | {FR} 7a | 27m, 9 | |||
1.3. エレファントロック南面 14 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 35.825569, 139.077464
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ★ Decantation / デカンテ | {FR} 6c+ | 8m, 4 | |||
| 2 | ★★ Okutama is a Witch / 奥多摩は魔女 | {FR} 7a | 15m, 6 | |||
| 3 | Nameko Demon / 鬼なめこ | {FR} 7c+ | 15m, 5 | |||
| 4 | WASABI | {FR} 7a+ | 13m, 6 | |||
| 5 | Moegi / もえぎ | {FR} 6c | 13m, 6 | |||
| 6 | ★ Sobataro / 蕎麦太郎 | {FR} 6c | 15m, 9 | |||
| 7 | Men and women winter story / 男女冬物語 | {FR} 6b+ | 6m, 3 | |||
| 8 | ★ Licking lottery / なめなめくじ | {FR} 6c+ | 9m, 5 | |||
| 9 | ★ Still / お尚 | {FR} 7a+ | 10m, 5 | |||
| 10 | ★★★ DAIJA | {FR} 7c+ | 7m, 3 | |||
| 11 | ★ Bran joy / ぬかよろこび | {FR} 7c | 8m, 3 | |||
| 12 | ★★ Shrine / 神社 | {FR} 8a+ | 8m, 4 | |||
| 13 | ★ Bionic Soldier Turtle / バイオニックソルジャー亀 | {FR} 6c | 7m, 4 | |||
| 14 | My son's name is Yuki / 息子の名は友希 | {FR} 6b+ | 7m, 4 | |||
1.4. Dragon Rock 11 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 35.825639, 139.078062
description
Sunny in the afternoon this rock has several shorter routes. 12 routes from 6b+ to 9a+
approach
When arriving from the trail it is the first rock on your right (facing Elephant Rock).
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ★ Bad or Not too Bad | {FR} 7b+ | 11m, 5 | |||
| 2 | Stun Gun / スタンガン | {FR} 6c+ | 11m, 4 | |||
| 3 | Keep Forest / キープフォレスト | {FR} 6b+ | 11m, 5 | |||
| 4 | ★★ Kill Finger / キルフィンガー | {FR} 7c | 13m, 6 | |||
| 5 |
★★ Maturity
FA: Sachi Amma | {FR} 9a+ | 20m, 9 | |||
| 6 | ★★★ Alesion / アレジオン | {FR} 7b+ | 20m, 7 | |||
| 7 | ★ Jaguar cross / ジャガークロス | {FR} 6c+ | 11m, 4 | |||
| 8 | Dragon Hole / ドラゴンホール | {FR} 6b+ | 12m, 4 | |||
| 9 |
★★★ Mongolian Tanmen / 蒙古タンメン
FA: Yuji Hirayama | {FR} 7a+ | 10m, 6 | |||
| 10 |
★ Greyhound / グレイハウンド
FA: Yuji Hirayama | {FR} 7c | 11m, 7 | |||
| 11 | ★★ Fragile | {FR} 7b+ | 12m, 4 | |||
1.5. Castle Rock 3 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 35.825900, 139.077874
description
The biggest face of the area with routes up to 35m.
approach
When arriving from the trail, continue walking up between the Elephant rock and the Dragon rock.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ★★ Mercy Yon Cue / メルシーヨンキュー | {FR} 8a | 35m, 11 | |||
| 2 | ★★★ Seven Stitch on Pinky | {FR} 7c | 35m, 14 | |||
| 3 | ★★ Ikazuchi | {FR} 7c+ | 32m, 13 | |||
