Photos
Help

description

More of a scramble than a climb. A gentle morning out. Situated on the west face. Looks like it has not been climbed all that much so there is brittle rock all over. The guide book gives this route a grade f5 however it didn't seem like that, so we might have been off route.

Gear: Hardly any as there is either no point placing anything or you can't. A hand full of mid sized cams. Slings useful. Final abseil is about 60m.

Time: 4 hours up and down taking it very easy.

  • Pitch 1 f4: The climb starts to the left of all the vertical cracks which lead to the mushroom overhang. There is a less than vertical gully. Climb this, unprotectable (or pointless to protect) for about 50m till you reach a short 2m face. Belay from above the face.
  • Pitch 2 to summit, f3: Heading practically straight up the ramps. There is no massive need to do any pitched climbing if you don't want to as you can walk around any problems, but if you enjoy building anchors you can.

Descent.

Walk back down keeping a little bit to left of the route as it's less steep. 20 meters of so before the first belay head right and into the next big gully. The guide book mentions a hidden abseil. We didn't see any evidence, but set up an abseil on a big thread and went down the face, to the floor (approx 60m).

Route history

There is no known route history.

Warnings

Location

Lat/Lon: 29.58099, 35.53424

Grade citation

4 Assigned grade
4 thomas puddy

ethic

Sandstone becomes brittle when wet because it absorbs water, this effects its internal structure. Once the rock surface is totally dry, you need to wait another 24 hours before climbing, this gives time for the absorbed water to also evaporate and the rock to regain its strength.

inherited from Wadi Rum

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 33 from 1 ratings.

Tick Types

Tick 1

Comment keywords

Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Thierry Souchard

Date: 2017

ISBN: 9782952638876

A selective guidebook describing 180 multi-pitch routes from 7 areas around the world, covering Calanques, Verdon, Sardinia, Meteora, Wadi Rum, Tsaranoro, Red Rocks, and Zion.

Author(s): Thierry Souchard

Date: 2017

Ce topo numérique présente une sélection de 26 grandes voies (tirées du topo Rock around the World) La quasi-totalité des itinéraires proposés sont en TA. Evidemment, ce style d’escalade « sur coinceurs » force à la modestie mais dans les voies présentées, le rocher se prête bien aux protections, notamment le long des belles lignes de fissures. D’autres voies davantage typées « montagne » privilégient la recherche d’itinéraire à la difficulté pure et sont également intéressantes. Elles sont un prolongement des fameuses voies bédouines. Ces « randonnées du vertige » découvertes par les locaux sont la plus belle et sans doute la seule vraie façon de visiter les lieux. Certaines voies d’escalade décrites ici empruntent des voies bédouines pour redescendre et 2 voies bédouines d’accès au sommet du Jebel Rum sont décrites précisément. Le niveau requis pour la sélection est de 6a/6b sur coinceurs. Tracés précis des voies sur photos « zoomable » Le contenu du topo est visible sur l’appli OmegaRoc.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

Share this

Fri 26 May
Check out what is happening in The good the bad the ugly.

Get a detailed insight with a timeline showing

  • Ticks by climbers like you
  • Discussions of the community
  • Updates to the index by our users
  • and many more things.

Login to see the timeline!

Deutsch English Español Français Italiano 한국어 Português 中文