Routes in Kenya for selected grade

A grand old Lukenia classic and a superb introduction to this cliff. At the left end of the cliffs a prominent crack with a rightwards rising ear at 4.5m. Climb crack and step right around ear. Continue easily up to ledge and left-hand fig tree belay. Climb white-coloured wall left of big groove with a tricky step left onto good position on arete, and move up to ledge & belay. Move out rightwards 3m past small nettle tree, and up to horizontal crack. Up directly over this and up wall (crux) above to obvious recess. Traverse left 3m and straight up to top.

1. 30m. Start in a slight recess just to left of large fig tree. A prominent flake lies on the face. Climb to good stance on this flake. Traverse right along ledge. Thread runner in a hole at 6m. Continue traversing at this level round the corner and then ascend 9m to reach the "keyhole". Belay peg in place and thread in back of "keyhole".

2. 20m. Climb upwards out of "keyhole" until level with a series of cracks running out to the left along the overhanging portion of the cliff. Move out along these cracks. Two awkward moves lead to a wide, grassy ledge. Easy climbing to top.

The best easiest way up the Castle, and superior to Committee Wall. Ian Howell first climbed it in 1982 but to this day can't remember who his second was. Some parties belay half-way up in the Committee Wall 'keyhole', but this might not be the best belay in the world. It can be done in one long pitch, but watch your pro carefully for the last thing you want on the final moves is rope-drag. The climb takes the East face of the Castle and starts in a gully where there is a leaning block below and right of the Committee Wall 'keyhole'. From block move up leftwards past a bolt, step left and continue leftwards to the arete. Straight up to 'keyhole'. Move up rightwards some 6m and gain a prominent ledge system which leads up diagonally leftwards. Hold your breath and traverse left along this (crux), until holds allow an exit above.

Starting up Golden Anniversary, join Committee Wall at the 'keyhole'

A short way up the gully right of Hit and Run there is an obvious scoop near the ground. Up to this, then harder move out of scoop, and straight up to top.

Start in crack behind clump of trees where there is a thick grey tree root.

1. 12m. Climb crack 4m and move right onto wall and to platform. Move left across crack to wall with good holds and climb into sentry box. Belay to column on right.

2. 17m. Ascend back of sentry box until a prominent crack, slightly right is reached. Climb this and move left-handed across wall leading to small bush. 4.5m leads to boulder for belay. Alternate finish by traversing left from top of back of sentry box to fig tree.

Start at the very base of slab at small bush some feet right of boulder. Climb centre of 3m nose and 8m slab above to vertical wall. Traverse left and climb directly into groove above. Up groove to prominent horizontal crack. Move left onto wall and climb to fig tree belay.

Probably worth doing if for no other reason than the rare pleasure of climbing a crack at Lukenya. At the left end of Upper Cliffs is a dark bay. The Lizard takes the line up the corner, and immediately left of the bay is a steep wall with an overhang at 4.5m. Left of this is a thin crack. Ascend crack on finger-locks for 10m, then easily up arete to abseil cable.

Start some 7.5m right of The Joy Of Frogs just left of prominent tree. Strenuous pull up over bulge (it is a crime to touch tree), then up slightly left to steep wall. Mantle shelf up this then up to belay ledge at 25m. Either traverse left to abseil cable or make long rising traverse up rightwards to top of cliff.

Start about 4.5m right of Pilot Of The Storm. Easily up to flake at 4.5m then surmount overhanging wall above on good jugs. Up slightly rightwards on easier rock to belay. Finish as for Pilot Of The Storm.

Originally led without the bolt this little climb then packed a wallop. Go up the gully on the right of the Buttress to base of prominent arete immediately right of steep portion of cliff. Start directly below arete which is climbed to horizontal break. Bolt above. Step right, up, then left above bolt to easier ground. Continue left to good position on skyline. Straight up to top.

Same start as Smooth or it is possible to begin about 2m to the right. Clipping the first bolt of Smooth is definitely offroute. After reaching the first pocket on Smooth, climb a left-lacing crack (will take a cam) about 3m to the right of the bolt and move up and left of an orange dihedral (a smallish wire can be put behind a flake). Continue up steep ground to a horizontal crack (flexi-cam placement) and either move straight up onto a good horizontal ledge or move left and up using good holds and a hanging flake higher up (possible pro here). Exit rightwards.

2020 Edit: This route is probably the same as 'Bliss of Nemesis', which was bolted without being aware of the existence of this trad route.

Named in honour of a Congolese dance-style that may or may not help in getting up this route. The route follows a ramp that slopes up to the left (very manky RP placement). Move onto the wall (beware of loose holds) and traverse left across the top of a prominent hollow until reaching a good ledge (crux). Surmount the ledge and move upwards (good, small wires) on steep ground with juggy holds to a horizontal crack (good cam) between the 'hanging gardens'. The 'hanging gardens' are wild orchids, so please do not damage (natural pro).

To the right of Comparing Notes is a corner. Start on right-hand side of corner at hole at about 1m. Ascend and slant left around corner, then straight up to top.

Start 3m left of Theft at small "V" shaped holds. Climb about 4m on small holds then move slightly left (crux), reaching crack. Up overhang and easy to finish.

Start on left-hand piece of a broken block below the left end of an overlap which extends to Lancelot, 3m right of clump of nettle trees. Follow a vertical line of holds over the overlap, past a small pocket, to easier ground. Then go up a vague crack to the white-streaked arete on the right. Go up this to a bushy ledge and straight over the overhang on a large hold.

Start 2m left of obvious demarcation between lichen and dark rock. Start on small holds leading to scoops. Direct line continues to horizontal crack at approx. 7.5m (pro), then continues on easier ground to belay.

A quick mantle leads to an easy slab and a perfect steep upper section just left of the tree. Lower-off anchor (hooks - no need to clean).

One of the original lines. Work up to a first bolt through one of a few variations to start. Hardest and most interesting variation is to go direct up the slab (4c is for this direct variation).

This route was rebolted in January 2020. The bolt placements were kept the same as the FA party. There is a new bolted anchor.

Sure to be a classic. Work up the easy slab to good holds. From here swim up perfect jugs through the steep upper section to a two-bolt anchor.

Climb the faint arête to the right of 'Dapper Flapper'.

Go up the easy broken rock to the right of Kenyan Cowgirl.

Travel on jugs on overhanging face above Chicken Head.

Up the easiest part of the boulder with lots of textured holds and good feet. Stand-start. Good for first-timers outside or for a quick warm-up.

Stand-start, up the left-hand side of the boulder on good holds.

Stand-start. Up the middle of the slabby section of the boulder, good practice for finding feet and smearing on slabs.

Sit start, both hands in the crack. Up the crack and left onto the half-way ledge. Straight up from there.

Easy warm-up or beginner lowball. Traverse left to right with hands on jugs on the arete.

On the far left of the boulder, from the platform of the large boulder below. Stand-start on obvious big jugs on the arete and go straight up more jugs.

Stand-start just right of the left arete. Go straight up.

Up the slab on the easier right-hand face of the boulder. Sit-start on the big crack, straight up via one slightly tricky friction foot move.

Same start as for Screaming hyrax, but go up the earlier diagonal crack.

Start on the higher crack on the left of the boulder, and follow it up to to its end and top out.

Entrance

On the left side of the boulder from Baby Slap. Stand-start on good feet and and handholds. Up jugs to the top.

Stand-start to the right of the crack in the middle of the boulder. Move up staying right of the crack.

SIt-start on the lowest rail on the slabby black rock to the right of Sit-start warm-up and Mojave. First move hardest, but still easy enough, then up jugs to the top.

On the right side of the mountain-facing side of the lower boulder, just left of the very tall face and Slipper Feet and Osoit. Stand-start on obvious big holds and go up on more good holds from there. A bit high but always on solid holds.

Stand-start on the right of the boulder, just left of where it cracks, on good holds. Up on jugs.

Sit-start on same holds as Ninja, move right to big rail, using the flake above gently to exit right.

To the far left of the cave, the short wall curves into a dilute arete. The route goes up this. do not fall.

Great introduction to highballing - good rock, good feet and good holds with a juggy finish. Stand-start in a kind of break in the bushes and trees about 10 m right of Bone Hole. Straight up the obvious line of holds to the top.

Stand-start on the left-hand side of the boulder, with hands on good holds. Work your way up and right along the jugs on the arete.

Second line from the left, straight up from a stand-start on two decent holds. Up and slightly right. The sit-start is V2, from the low blocky hold.

Stand-start from the side-pull on the left of the boulder. Straight up on good holds.

Good slab climbing exercise. Go straight up the middle of the small slab from standing, relying on friction and small pebbles.

Easy moves up the left of the boulder.

Up the arete on the right.

To the right of sanity crumble, start low and delicately get to the top.

Starts up the prominent groove North Groove, to the detached pillar.

1. 12 m Climb the groove to where it steepens. A traverse right on small holds leads to a tree and block belays, small stance.

2. 25 m Bridge up the groove above the tree and swing round to the slab on the right. Climb up this a little and traverse right again and up to the overhang which is turned on its right. Now up over awkward blocks and up final steep corner.

To the right of Recompense there is a thin crack descending from the bush. Ignore this but start 3 m right where there is a rightwards leaning wall. Move up wall then step left into groove. Continue up this for 9 m until a move can be made right onto a slab and ledge. Now left to sharp arete and swing around this to join Recompense below the overhang which is turned on its right. Finish up Recompense.

First impressions are that the grade is 22 A2, but we would be happy for a second ascent party to downgrade the difficulty. Will write up description, but anyone wanting to repeat the route, can contact me at any time. Three pitches, right-hand side of Springs Wall, through the left side of overhangs.

At the left end of the recessed area is a large guano-smeared cave/chimney. This climb takes the crack to the right of this. Bridge up past the chockstones to the leftwards slantrng crack. Follow this to the top (crux). Good protection all the way.

Historic route number: 1

Climb the wide chimney to the right of the previous route, to the overhang. Move onto the left wall below a narrow crack. Climb this to the finish (crux).

Historic route number: 2

At the extreme left end of the Bookhouse Cliffs, a detached block forms a wide curving crack facing north. This route climbs the chimney 6' to the right. Awkward moves at the start lead to a bulge. Climb over this to a ledge on the left, and surmount small detached block. Step right to easy finish.

Historic route number: 3

The thin crack on the right edge of the recessed grey slab is climbed on fingerjams, then the wider easier crack to the top.

Historic route number: 10

This route starts on a small buttress immediately to the left of the main 'Frog Buttress'. Climb the two cracks at the left end of the cliff to a small tree. Traverse a long way rightwards until a move up can be done, enabling a long traverse rising leftwards to be made. When possible make an awkward exit up onto a small grassy ledge and the top. This is a poorly protected route, justifying its name, but nonetheless having a certain quality.

Historic route number: 14

This is the obvious chimney at the extreme left end of the main 'Frog Buttress'. Climb the chimney until a move out right can be made, and go up past a small tree. Move up the crack above, stepping left across wall and up to top.

Historic route number: 16

First climbed on Ian Howell's 50th birthday! Start about 15' right of 'Finally First', at a chimney. Climb this and traverse left to gain another wide crack. Follow this to the top.

Historic route number: 22

To the right of 'Hamsini' is a big block and another corner. The corner is taken to the top.

Historic route number: 23

Climb the Wall 10' to the right of 'Amnesia'. Move right into the crack at the small tree and up this to finish.

Historic route number: 25

To the right of 'Blue Valentine' is a large fig tree with its roots growing 20' up a wide crack. Climb the crack to the top.

Historic route number: 26

This route goes up the next wide crack to the right.

Historic route number: 27

The next crack on the right with a chockstone halfway up.

Historic route number: 29

This route starts 30' to the right of 'R2D2' at the base of a large flake that slants leftwards. Climb the flake to the wide groove above. Up this and move up to a crack leading past a small tree to the top.

Historic route number: 31

This is the next wide chimney right, with the column of rock at its base. Climb the deep chimney to the chockstone. Surmount this and continue to top.

Historic route number: 36

This route follows the left-hand crack system at the back of the deep recess left of 'Ragged Glory'.

1. Climb the wide crack and flakey face on its left past small roof to ledge at 10m. Chockstone belay.

2. Continue up the deep chimney past large chockstone and over precarious boulders to tree belay.

Could be climbed as one pitch, but you'll have a devil of a time.

Historic route number: 43a

A few feet to the right of 'A Lie of the Mind' is a massive detached boulder. Climb the arete of the boulder to a crack. Up this to a narrow chimney and the finish.

Historic route number: 50

Start in the slight recess just right of the previous route. Move up slightly leftwards to slab (same slab as 'The Day After'), then move rising rightwards, across the slab to an obvious finishing crack. Climb this to top.

Historic route number: 52

About 40' right of the last route is a tree up to the right of a wide crack. Climb to the tree and move rightwards past it to a detached block. Up the wall and through the archway to the top.

Historic route number: 53

Takes the right-sloping chimney in the centre of the crag. Start up to overhanging tree, and surmount this to ledge. Move 8' right then up obvious crack (crux), over first bulge and on to finish.

Historic route number: 56

At the extreme left end of the cliff a smooth wall ends in a corner crack. Climb this to a ledge at 20'. Continue up using the wall on the right to gain the crack above. Follow to top.

Historic route number: 57

Climb the short corner right of 'Making Movies', into the gully above. Move up the left wall to the base of the steep crack above. Climb the crack past the tree and exit left at the top.

Historic route number: 61

Climb the deep obvious cave crack in the centre of the main buttress. Exit leftwards.

Historic route number: 65

This is the obvious crack/chimney immediately left of 'Congo'. Entertaining. Up crack into chimney then bowel up to the top.

Historic route number: 66a

At the right end of the crag are two open grooves. This route takes the left of these. Climb past the tree and continue to the top.

Historic route number: 71

This route climbs the square-cut groove to the right of 'Quisling'.

Historic route number: 72

There was much competition for this one between John Temple and Ian Howell. The former won! This route is the obvious corner crack to the right of the previous routes. Start where there is white rock, and climb the crack past a tree to the top.

Historic route number: 75

To the left of 'Deception' is a slab leading to a leftwards-slanting ramp ending in a wide crack. Climb the slab to the ledge and make a hard move to gain the ramp. Up this to the foot of the crack. Climb carefully past a large loose block to gain the crack and finish.

Historic route number: 81

In the corner recess in the middle of the crag is a short chimney. Climb this to a ledge, and move left to a thin finger crack. Up this and exit left avoiding loose blocks.

Historic route number: 88

This route climbs the black slab to the right of 'Maggie'. Start on top of a boulder, and make an awkward move onto the slab, then into the corner recess. Climb the slab to the bottom of the crack. Follow this to a good ledge and finish up the boulders on the left.

Historic route number: 91

Start 10' right of 'Maggie'. Climb the slab and move rightwards below trees to a platform. Continue up the corner crack to the left.

Historic route number: 92

1. 8m, 4a

   Start at the foot of broken groove midway between 'Fracture' and 'The Threader'.

   Climb the groove 5m, before launching rightwards over hanging slab. Step back left behind small pinnacle to belay on small fig tree.

2. 25m, 4b

   Climb offwidth crack on left past handy chockstone to surmount pointy boulder on left. Step right onto face a climb rightwards before stepping left below small roof. Climb loose overhang to pathetic tree on ledge. Continue up the dihedral, over boulders to top.

Easy smearing up the backside slab of the boulder. Be humbled by the local kids walking up it barefoot.

Up the left side of the rightmost slab.

1. This route starts on the left toe of the large formation and heads up the path of least resistance to a good stance on a big ledge above the Guano Chimney.

2. A second pitch up a steeper section leads to anchors on top.

Mantle up to the first bolt. Tricky climbing leads to the second bolt as the terrain eases off to finish.

Long sport route traversing left. Take care as some of the bolts are on loose rock.

A cool feature of not too hard climbing. follow the Z and exit up to the left.

Season: Christmas to mid-March Time: 13 hours.

This route ascends the prominent ridge, which splits the hanging glaciers of the West Face, from the snowfield / amphitheatre on the South-West Ridge Route. The climb begins from the Tyndall Glacier, left the obvious rock buttress located immediately left of the South-West Couloir. The route works its way up the left side of this buttress to gain the ridge proper approximately 100 m below the prominent Lower Tower (situated lower left side of snowfield/amphitheatre). The major difficulties are low down on the route. From the start, three pitches (IV sup., IV, V), lead to a belay beneath a leftward curving arch. The route then ascends the wall on the left of the arch (V sup.) then breaks rightwards (A1) through an overhang onto easier ground. The route continues up, keeping left of the ridge, for three pitches (III, V, IV sup.), to reach the ridge proper beneath the Lower Tower.One long pitch (IV inf.) reaches the very base of the Tower. The route then leads rightwards on eas ground (good bivouac site), around the base of the Lower Tower (Il), then back leftwards above the Tower (Il), to gain ridge overlooking the West Face. Climb the ridge (Il) to the Upper Tower, which is climbed direct (IV). Continue up the ridge for four pitches (Ill sup., IV, Ill), to reach the South West Ridge. Follow this to summit.

Start from Two Tarn Hut. Ascend the Tyndall Glacier to the foot of a steep snow-slope rising up rightwards between the two hanging glaciers, Forel (left) and Heim (right). Then climb directly up the snow/ice-field for about 250 m, making for a rib on the upper part of the face which is not too evident. Most parties pass to the right of it. Climb up to the right to a cave (bivouac site), and either make a long traverse left to the gully (IV inf.) which leads up to the summit; or climb up the rock (V) trending right to the South-West Ridge. The first three-quarters of the route used to require modern ice gear, but at time of writing (2023) the route probably needs reassessing as most glaciers have severely receded.

Time: 10 hours.