Routes in Kenya for selected grade

A delicate exercise in nut placing. This worthy trip takes the left side of the Castle where there is an orange overhang with a steep grey wall above. A 18m doddle up the lower slabs ends at a good belay in horizontal cracks some 5m below the overhang. Up this direct via a slanting flake and the grey wall above is reached by way of a thin vertical crack up on the right. Move up delicately 5m to good pro. Mantelshelf steep wall above and easier ground to top.

A brilliant climb which takes the main South face of the Castle. Start right of a flake on the ground an 50' of easy climbing leads to a point where the lower slab meets the steepening wall. A long pitch leads up right to the right-hand side of a flake, then up aot a prominent quartz-hole. Traverse diagonally leftwards to an obvious niche, then move right and up a cruzy wall to a horizontal crack (fixed peg pro on right). Move left to wall below bolt and make difficult move up to obvious finishing groove. Easier to top.

Intimidating. For many years it was neglected owing to a reputation for lack of pro. Now it has excellent bolt pro. No harder than 'The Keep' but possibly more variety and atmosphere. The route rises steeply to the vertical wall below the left-hand overhang, traverses rightwards across this then surmounts wall in between overhangs in a marvellous position. The original start began left of the start of 'Committee Wall' and climbed the steep wall leading the the left-hand crack of the Committee Wall flake. This is not too hard but unprotected. Many parties will probably take 'Committee Wall' as far as the belay on top of the flake. From here move up leftwards to a bolt, then up with increasing difficulty to a second bolt. Step down right (crux), then up and continue rightwards to easier ground. Move up to foot of wall between overhangs. Bolt on left. Ascend wall with difficulty and hand-traverse right to ledge. Finish easily.

On the red face facing south picnic tree. One bolt at start, then traverse diagonally to the right, move up to holes. Then traverse left on horizontal crack until it thins down, with another bolt above the crack. Finish at bolted anchors.

To the left of Cave Crack is a prominent pillar. Start at the bottom and climb up on the corner/pillar. Below the bolt you can place a few runners. Crux around the bolt (which can be a bit tricky to clip). Continue past bolt and easily to top.

A veritable corker! Start from boulder just right of Savage Waltz. Pull up bulge on good jugs and continue to glassy wall below "ear"(a peg with a split eye is on left). Up this wall (crux) to crack and layback strenuously rightwards to jugs and ledge. Easily to top.

Start right of Cemetery corner until corner/chimney. Layback up leftwards to groove, up this a bit then break out onto right wall by way of steeper groove. Move up to slab and finish on left.

This climb which is of no value whatsoever, starts 3m left of Cemetery Wall at the bottom of the gully just right of Corpse. Climb over a small overlap then make difficult moves up using a finger-crack to reach a good ledge, which is shared with Cemetery Wall. Traverse delicately left and turn the corner to better holds. Straight up.

5m to the right of the start to Cemetery Wall is a thin crack which begins to open at 6m. Start from the tree stump at blank wall. Move up on thin flakes to a old bolt. Layback and jam to the widening of the crack. Strenuous. Continue more easily up the crack. Step right onto face from two moves then back into the crack. Tree belay.

Start as for Le Pelley's Variation and climb the first 15m of this route to the foot of the crack. Now traverse 4m further right to where an obvious leftwards-rising diedre is reached. Climb the wall immediately on left of diedre, which is very hard at the start but gradually becomes easier until a position is reached below the prominent orange-coloured roof. Climb roof direct some 4m right of the chimney at the end of Le Pelley's Variation.

A totally manky exercise, which is satisfying for the masochist but useless for the quality-seeker. Start about 15m right of Calcutta in an area obvious for its dripping greenery, beneath a bush which grows 6m up the face. Climb to stump then right via horizontal crack to good jug which enables corner to be gained. Up this then step right to ledge. Traverse left 3m and climb directly to top.

Start to the right of Gripes. Climb diagonal crack, then reach right when possible and climb wall on jugs to top. Try to avoid touching the small Ficus in the crack.

Start 2.5m right of The Hair Of The Frog where there is an obvious jam crack up through the overhang. Climb crack to tree stump of The Lizard. Move directly above past horizontal crack and crux move up overhang (bolt). Exit left onto wall 1.5m above bolt, step up, then traverse right 2m and easier ground above to abseil cable.

Start on big block some 7.5m right of The Lizard. The route is just right of the arete. Climb to bulge at 4.5m (bolt), then hard moves up right to jug. Pull up to scoop. Up slightly leftwards, then up to ledge and belay. You are now some 4.5 right of the point where difficulties end on The Lizard. Traverse left to abseil cable.

Start just right of the Cornflakes tree stump where a diagonal edge leads up rightwards. Climb wall on right of edge to base of steep wall. Power up this 1m left of bolt to horizontal break, below overhang. Move up overhang until a series of good jugs leads out horizontally rightwards 3m, and pull through overhang when possible. Climb wall above 3m to bolt belay. Up easy wall above to top.

All that is great about Lukenia climbing. Start about 6m right of Gone With The Wind where there is a bolt some 4m up cliff. The title says it all. A gently overhanging wall which does not let up for 20m. Never desperate but tricky low down near the bolt. Four lunges follow to an easier but thrilling overhang and bolt belay on the wall above same as for Gone With the Wind. Either lower off here or climb unexciting wall above to top. It has become a classic and deservedly so.

An absolute blaster and intimidating to boot. Start 8m right of Finis corner, where the wall begins to overhang. A bolt can be seen at 6m. Up rightwards to bolt. Cruxy step up left of bolt then right to small niche. Straight up to steep but easier finish.

Between Jason's route and KL. An excellent, steep, juggy climb. Pumpy, but not as hard as it looks. A lovely route.

The corner crack between the two faces is climbed free (natural pro).

Immediately to the left of Leap of Faith. Very crimpy start to the first bolt, easier ground after that.

At left-hand end of crag there is a nettle plant growing about 2m up the cliff. Start 2m right of this, where hard moves lead up slightly left, then a hard move right to a jug. The route then continues straight up keeping about 1m right of the edge, to a horizontal crack. Step left then difficult move up to better holds. Follow arete to good belay tree.

Round the side from iceberg, good warm-up. Pretty vertical on crimps. Don't let go!

Starts in the juggy crack on the left, follows the crack up right to the dihedral and goes straight up. A really nice climb with an airy top out. The small tree in the middle of the line is off!

Straight up the slab on pebbles to the top. Avoid arete on right and large feature on left (slab only pure and simple)

Mental. Traverse left and up on good holds, just don't swing off and down the big drop underneath.

Sit-down start matched on really nice jug, moves left and up with a big move to a nice edge up at the lip. One of Lukenya's best!

Highball. Stand start and go straight up the face. A really nice technical boulder problem. Avoid using boulder on the right, though it could possibly be a V0 variation if used.

Crouch start on far right of prow, traverses just a few moves left and then up the face

Sit-down start matched on low slot edge, goes straight up on great slopers edges and incuts.

The line furthest left, or deepest inside the whale's mouth. Short but with a tricky first move. Stand-start on the lowest usable holds and a high foot, straight up through the horizontal break and slanting crack above.

Up the boulder using the feature that looks like a satellite dish.

Stand-start on the left side of the boulder, just right of a tree. Start with both hands on the arete and feet below, and work your way up to the highest point of the boulder and top out there (just before joining Searching for UFOs). Useful to have a friend to hold tree branches out of the way.

SIt-start to the left of Satelitte Dish, with left hand on good crimp on low rail and right hand on a low gaston crimp. Hard first move to stand up and reach a diagonal crimp up and right. Easier to the top. Useful to have a friend hold branches out of the way.

Sit-down start with left hand on rail and right on low crimp, moves up the short problem using slopey compression and crimps. It's a nice lowball.

Sit-down start with left hand low on arete and right hand on a very low undercling, moves a few moves up the arete and then traverses right across and up a the slab. Avoid going all the way up arete or around on the left side.

Sit-down start (almost lying) on low jug and goes straight up the right side of the boulder.

Ascend the boulder using the flake on its left-hand side. STand-start.

To the right of Cheerio, where there is an orange band of smooth rock on the lower half of the face. Stand-start on small feet and the lowest decent handholds. Straight up from there.

Stand-start on the lowest-usable crimps. Hard first move to a decent hold, straight up from there.

To the right of Special K. Stand-start on the lowest good holds. Find your feet and go straight up.

If you hate it-starts stay away. Sit-start on big holds low on the lip, and awkwardly and with difficult mantle up. Straight up from there.

Stand-start far right and traverse left and up to finish.

Nice. #juggy

Sit-down start on low jug and goes up left of arete on good crimps.

Sit-start low to the right of the arete, go up on crimps and big left-hand gaston staying right of arete to the top.

Sit-start at the furthest right and lower point of the big diagonal cracks. Work your way up this leftwards to get establish on good holds when the cracks end. From here either dyno to the top or use a poor intermediate crimp and bump up. Top out from there.

Not a classic but can be a good warm-up. Stand-start on a horizontal crack on the left of the boulder, then right and up on good holds.

Same sit-start as for Touching cotton, the lowest holds on the right of big diagonal cracks. From here move up right on holds in cracks and mantle over the top.

A couple of variations on the left-hand side of the boulder, starting stood up at the horizontal rail and mantling. Very short but strenuous.

Better than it looks. Stand-start in the middle of the overhang matched on okay holds and feet high. Get up to the big block and mantle above this to finish up the slab above.

Easiest and most obvious line up the boulder. Stand-start, follow the crack in the middle of the boulder.

Stand-start on big obvious holds to the left of the crack line and work your way delicately up avoiding the crack on your right.

Short but fun problem. Start on lowest usable hold on the arete, one hardish move up to the big flakes, then work your way left along the arete and up to finish.

On the left side of the boulder. Start on a good rail, then a big move to a decent hold just under the lip. From there find holds further in and mantle.

Sit-start on the big blocky holds low down, mantle this staying on the arete rather than the slab to the right, delicately reach holds on top of the boulder and muscle up to top out.

Stand-start. Start at the same spot as for Slab Slob, but go right up a less obvious section of the slab, via a high right foot and bellyflop.

Sit start, hands on the lowest holds. Only the arete is in.

Very similar to Witness the Weakness, but start further right with hand in the big crack and follow the line of the vertical crack above to the top.

Go up the arete opposite Witness the Weakness. Start on jugs on the left for easier, lower on crimps on the right for harder.

Right of Pain au Chocolat. Stand-start on two crimps and go straight up, using an intermediate crimp and getting feet up.

Right of Pain au Raisin and very similar. Stand-start on obvious holds, go straight up via a good horn and getting feet up.

Fun one-move problem. Stand-start on big obvious jugs. Straight up via a big move to jugs at the top. Just make sure you get the jugs or have a good spotter as the landing is awkward.

Stand-start with hands matched on the big obvious flake. Move right and up the arete to mantle.

Awkward problem on the left side of the boulder. Stand-start with hands on slopers at shoulder level. Straight up a series of slopers.

Stand-start on good holds just left of the cave. Move up on jugs then slightly left to a diagonal rail then to better holds to finish.

Stand-start in the far left of the cave. Come out of this to a good crack then up and right to another good crack just above the lip of the cave. Up from here on decent holds.

Stand-start on the left of the boulder with hands in decent holds in a horizontal crack. First move is hardest, to get a good hold higher, then up the broken ground above.

To the right of the tree on the left-hand side of the face. Stand-start on two good feet where there is some quartz in the black rock. Once established on those, up to decent holds and top out.

To the right of Moran Therapy.Stand-start. Get established on a good left foot and slopey right foot, before popping up to a decent gaston - quite a unique move. Don't just jump up from the ground to the good holds higher up.

Just left of a small fig tree growing out of the rock. Get established from a stand-start on the best holds within reach from a decent foot next to the tree. Up on crimps to top out.

Up the right side of the boulder, starting right of the fig tree. Get established from a stand-start, then straight up.

The easy slab line on the section of the boulder furthest uphill. Stand-start on a rail and go straight up.

Stand-start under where the overhang starts, work up the slab and exit just right of the overhang.

This problem ascends the arete on left hand side of the boulder. Start stood on the ramp below the arete with hands matched on the slanting rail. Once established, the ascent along the arete is straight forward with good feet and decent hand holds.

Up the slab on the left side of the boulder, starting low and right then making your way up and to left, topping out near the tree branches. Slabby and technical climbing.

Sit-start on the low jug on the left-hand side of the boulder (right of the slabby face). Go straight up the arete.

Sit start from the big jug in the middle and find your way directly up a couple hand moves to an easy top.

Sit start (practically a lie start) from the low jug in the middle of the boulder. Traverse out right through the 45 degree crack and continue to top out at the far right corner.

Eliminate problem starting with a sit start on the "handle" jugs on each side of the flat shelf to the right of the other starts. Power up to the top lip, avoiding the cracks in the middle. Cracks off for feet too, so enjoy the mantle!

Full traverse of the boulder. Sit-start on the start jug of Ticked off on the left and work your way right and to the top-out of Tickle me Elmo. Avoid all holds at the top of the boulder before the top-out on the far right.

An enticing little slab problem up the middle of the boulder. Stand-start in the gap between the two boulders with hands just above waist height. Go either up and slightly left (easier) or up and slightly right (harder). Great for learning how to slab climb. Can be padded by filling in the gap with pads after the climber is above the height of the neighbouring boulder.

Stand-start on the same holds as for "Just grab and smear" and proceed to traverse right into "Leg day gains" and finish up via the latter sequence.

Stand-start up the right-hand arete of the boulder.

Stand start on lowest possible holds facing each other, both have 90 degree corners and the left hand is small and sharp. Find your way up and across the ridge line to the top. Top out as far left as you can without getting stuck in the thorns.

Sit-start with both hands as low as possible - left in a small crack and right on the ledge which is also used for the right foot. Go straight up the face, with some deceptively tricky and balancey moves.

Up the crack on the left-hand side of the boulder. Sit-start matched in the crack as low as possible, up to where it ends and straight up the juggy boulder above.

Sit-start matched in the low crack on the left of the boulder, traverse all the way across following the gently rising crack, finishing on the far right where a small vertical crack splits the top.

Up the right-hand arete of the boulder.

Stand-start compressing the left-hand arete of the boulder, with feet low underneath. Go left and up on decent holds to establish on the slab and easy to the top.

Sit-start on the left of the boulder, with hands matched in a low decent diagonal crack. Couple of powerful moves up a jug above and top out.

Stand-start on the obvious lowest usable holds. Go straight up, using face or arete holds as you like.

#crimpy #juggy

Stand-start on decent hold in the horizontal crack. Move up using the arete and hold on the face to the jugs above. With 2 or 3 pads the landing is better than it looks - fun easy climb.

Sit-start with hands matched in a good horizontal crack. Slightly strenuous first move up to a good hold, then good feet and handholds from there.

SIt-start around the right side of the prow, with hands matched in the low slanting rail and feet underneath. Work your way up the right side of the arete - a few options available for holds.

Stand-start matched on a good hold on the left hand-side of the boulder. The perpendicular boulder to your left is off, and you should establish also full off the sloping rock below. Go straight up via decent holds and sidepulls.

Stand-start on the arete and the hollow flake, established off the slanting rock below. Straight up the arete from there - good to have a few pads and a spotter as the landing is not great.

Nice. Don't use the boulders on right and on left. #bad_dropzone #juggy

Stand-start with left hand just around the arete and right hand on the arete. Pull a couple spicy moves and then your top out of choice.

Sit-start on the arete to the left of the crack, with right hand on the arete and left low on the face. Compress up the arete to good holds at the top, maybe with a sneaky toe-hook?

As the name suggests, up the crack on the left of the big face. Stand-start and jam or layback up to the big horizontal crack below the block above. Traverse right along this to finish.