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Routes in Kyrgyzstan for selected grade

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Showing all 8 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Bishkek Chon Kurchak Gorge Sector 2
6a+ Dingo

2nd from the left at area 2

Sport 8
Ala Archa Учебные скалы
6a+ Route 5

2nd bolted line on the left. Slaby and techy face along a thin crack to the right of the bolts. Climb with care as there are no bolts between the second and the belay station.

Sport 18m
6a+ Route 7

Start on the right side of the same high roof as number 6. Climb awkwardly to overcome the initial roof and climb with care after as there is little gear until a break 2/3 up, following the shallow groove with nice finger cracks. Overcome final roof, belay station on the right.

Trad 18m
6a+ Route 13

Far right bolted line on the face. Easier than it looks. Nice face climbing with good holds on the left. Overcome first roof directly. Continue up face to second roof and climb over via the right side. Continue up straight than slightly left below final roof, belay station on the upper roof (6c alternative, climb roof directly with reachy moves to top and sweet heel hook).

Sport 20m
6a+ Route 14

Bolted line just left of the waterfall. Begin on a crack with nice lay backing moves until you reach a large niche, move up the niche and onto the face with some fun technical moves past a small ledge. Rope Belay at the top.

Sport 20m
Ala Archa Пищуха
6a+ Route 3

Descent via Route 2 (rings)

Trad 100m, 4
Kel Suu Orget's Nose
{UK} HVS UKT:5b Trip'N

Pitch 1 - Start at the bottom of a faint crack below an obvious cave. Stay to the right of the cave and follow crack with care as little gear and loose rock for the first 10 metres. Continue onto a slab and unto easier ground for 30 metres until a large flat ledge with nut and cam belay below a small wall. 50m

Pitch 2 -  Move up to the left side of the wall following a faint crack onto a ledge with good protection. Afterwards move onto a small slab section and into a depression, continue up the face and with a tricky step onto another slab section. Nut and cam belay at the base of a large wide crack on the left side of the face. 50m

Pitch 3 - Work your way up the crack/gully and scramble up easier ground for 30m on the left of the face until a large crack is reached with nut and cam belay. 35m

Pitch 4 - Move right onto the face climbing carefully up loose rock onto more stable but poorly protected ground. Continue for 15m up on top of the face and venture right towards a large niche in the rock below an orange wall. 25m

Pitch 5 - Move above or around the large block to the right of the niche (be aware of rope drag for this section), continue up the loose slab and through a small crack. From the crack make an airy traverse rightwards and up a gully with some lovely bridging moves. Final scramble to the top of the tower. 50-55m

Descent on the right hand side via a series of steep gullies and crack systems.

FA: Matt Harper & Paul Mougenot, 6 Aug 2021

Trad 200m, 5
Karavshin Ak-Suu Odessa
6a+ Korean Route

FA: 1994

Trad 25

Showing all 8 routes.

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