Routes in Melanesia for selected grade

Arete route between "Poseidon" and "Coquillage et Crustaces"

The 9th clip is a midway double-bolt anchor, but it is better to climb this as a long single pitch.

An awesome looking splitter crack thats just a bit smaller than fist size except for the end.

The wall right of corner, slap that arete.

Traverse in from the right along the hand rail and up onto ledge. Then up over mini roof into brain rock for the finish. Fun adventure climbing. Be mindful cleaning not to take a massive swing at the very bottom. Definitely harder off the ledge if you’re short.

Left route on the slab. Stay direct (slightly right of the last bolt) to earn the grade, or McDougall out left to 'Gateway to Pang' for grade 15 tick.

Easy start for a few bolts and then it gets interesting.

Start at lower belay ledge down and left of Bundy junk. Links the giant pockets on golden orange rock. Ignore the first set of lower offs and go to the top of the cliff.

Long, wandery 3D adventure climbing with so many styles. Starts at the bottom of the cliff fridge hugging or the alternative easier start left of the bolts.

Photogenic ! awesomeness

Stemming and layback corner right of Instagram Arete. Climb the start of Insta Arete or Hanging by a Thread and step into the obvious corner at predominant ledge. As with all routes at Bargo, be careful of loose rock

Left of Lacey

Could be 22, but we need a 21 on the wall.

Up the ‘Century of Change’ flake for a couple of bolts then move left and up the pumpy wall on big holds.

Some interesting and varied climbing, but a bit contrived in the middle.

Up the nice orange rock into the cave. Punch out the steep roof and clip the crux bolt, from here you can either pike right off to the rock platform (easy, 21?), or wrestle the hanging rounded arete as a boulder problem (recommended method, 23?), or possibly even go direct up the left of the arete (not yet tested. 24+?). Up to ledge then tricky top wall arete to anchors.

Start at the black streak / obvious corner holds. Head upwards and slightly left through crux.

Start 1m right of Holy Sister. Trend right at break then follow bolts up and over.

The R hand line of bolts about 20m up the rungs/gully

Has a bit of everything, slab, face and jugs. The black line of jugs 20 L of STH, further up the rungs that goes up the centre of the wall working slightly L into the back juggy groove to the top.

Far L route, The L arete of this wall. Start 2m L of SNA, awkward start and follow the L side of the arete to step R onto the face at the roof

2m R of H. Up the tricky face start onto the ledge. Straight up the sandy white streak above. 6FHs, DRBB.

The easier variant of the Unstolen, you get the roof without the hard start. 5m R of U below the large under cling flakes. Up to these, then diagonally L and up the L edge of this wall. Up the ramp R to join U after the steep initial wall. Over the roof and up the steep jugs. 12RBs, DRBB.

A bit of old school and new, watch for loose rock on this one. Start below the large hanging flake. Up to and behind this and up the steep slopey ramp to the R corner of the roof. Through this and up the steep head wall on the massive jugs.

Fun, Long, steep and juggy – it’s easier to 2nd this to clean it. Start about 20m down the gully R of ST. Bridge up to the jugs and up the steep flake to about 2m below the top and a RB on the L. Step Land diagonally up the wall to the lower offs of ST. 11RBs, DRBB.

Start 2m R of Gully Gremlins and L of the next giant fern. Bridge of the back wall for a few moves to reach the jug where you pull onto the wall. Straight up the cool featured rock to the mantle out R at the top. 6RBs DRBB

closed project

Line up face in the nook 8m to the right of TF. Technical first half with an exciting couple of moves through the bulge. There are some hollow sounding blocks at the halfway ledge, but a half hour session with a 1m crowbar couldn’t get them off so they shouldn’t go anywhere. Still wise to treat with caution.

Nice face climbing (stay out of choss to the left) that unfortunately eases off after 10m

Starts just left of the tree next to coffin shaped block. Again great thin face that eases off higher up.

Ring bolted route that starts just right of the tree. Great rock, great climbing with an exciting crux at the slabby section up high. Be careful while faffing around at the base.

The other obvious link up option - Up Psychophagus til the fifth bolt then transition right into the top of intuit.

Line of hangers that trends diagonally right to DBB on face. Wise to stick clip first bolt.

Shares the first 3 Bolts with Two Hundred Mill then splits off diagonally left up the huge juggy feature to a steep finish. Great fun.

Bear hug up the ring bolted pillar then swing round onto the face then straight up on pumpy holds via ring bolts. Luxurious clip and lower anchor.

Start as for Quiet Luxury then veer off left after the fourth ring bolt following the line of hangers to the moon.