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La Meca

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Summary

The right end of the cliff band with mostly steep routes. Well shaded by trees but might get some late afternoon sun.

Description

Great rock quality and steep climbs in mostly harder grades. Some (many) of the routes stay wet after the rain and thus it is not a great area for the rainy season but go and have a look, it is really worth it.

Access issues

Hay una cuota de $30MXN para entrar, se paga en la casa que tiene barda de carrizo, de igual manera se puede dejar el auto estacionado ahí, preguntar al dueño

Approach

Drive from Oaxaca in direction Tule. Pass the administrative city (red and white modern buildings; do not enter the federal highway) and take a right just after it on Calle Camino del Tarrastro (which is a dirt road). Pass under the federal highway and continue uphill. Take a right to a bigger building and park there. Hike up on the well marked trail, heading right if in doubt to reach the left side of the climbsble section of the cliff.

You actually see the cliff once you passed the administrative city.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

The first wall you reach when hiking up. You don't need to leave the main track to reach this area, you'll walk straight to it. A set of short and easier routes.

La primer vía a la izq del Sector "El país de nunca jamás"

Set: Carlos Mondragón

Set: Carlos Mondragón

Set: Carlos Mondragón

Set: Carlos Mondragón

Set: Carlos Mondragón

Set: Carlos Mondragón

Set: Carlos Mondragón

Set: Carlos Mondragón

The main wall, continue along the cliff until you reach the nice, mostly overhanging wall.

First route on the left wall. Uses the arete.

Set: Antonio Carrillo

Shares reunion with Castor.

Set: Carlos Mondragón

Nice bouldery sequence to finish. Lots of loose rock, although the key holds are firm.

Set: Carlos Mondragón

Set: Carlos Mondragón

Set: Carlos Mondragón

FA: Antonio Carrillo

Bouldery start, hard move before big jugs halfway of the route. Technical finish with hidden jug to the left to clip chains.

Set: Erick López

Set: Germán Lavariega

Set: Erick López

FA: Bruno García

Set: Erick López

Until the first reunion. Beautiful sequence of ~V3/4 boulders.

Set: Erick López

Extension of Zazec.

Set: Erick López

Variante de Centauro, los últimos metros va hacia la izquierda. Boulder bonito al final.

FA: Antonio Vivi Carrillo

Set: Carlos Mondragón

Starts with easy climbing on the white, chossy mound.

Set: Carlos Mondragón

Just left of Quimera in similar style.

Set: Erick López

The pocketed line on the white streak. Cruise pockets all the way to a tricky finish!

Set: Carlos Mondragón

Line that runs close to Quimera. Climbs harder if you avoid going left.

Two tricky passes interspersed with good holds. Starts with the white broken feature.

Trends left after bolt 4.

Starts just left of the tree. Potential for nasty falls.

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Sat 27 May
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