Routes as alpine in Middle East

Russian 2A. Glacier walk except for a final 100m/40deg ice col.

Russian 3B

Russian 2B

Russian 5B

Russian 5B, Al5(90*), M4(60*)

From camp at 3730, cross the flat glacier then gain the heavily crevassed ramp leading to the "pillow" (a short 40 degree portion, then back to easier slopes). After reaching the "pillow" at 4200m (and rejoining the FA route, which used to go directly from camp on the ridge leading to the "pillow"), the actual ridge starts.

The terrain is not technically difficult, but the protection possibilities are almost inexistent, and the exposure is continuous.

First third of the route is a scrambling portion on mostly loose rock, with 2 short "steps" of 2 UIAA.

The middle third gets you back on snow/ice - this is the narrowest portion of the ridge (sometimes, boot-wide), but the slope is more gentle.

The last third is wider, with some 30 degree portions.

From the top-most bolt (see 2. pitch of Direct Ridge Way) rappel to the top of the pillar (50 meters). Descent 7 meters in a crack and traverse towards the edge of the pillar to a bolt. From the bolt rappel to the big tree (45 meters, see also first part of Direct Ridge Way). From the tree rappel to the big terrace (45 meters). From one of the lower-most trees at the edge of the terrace rappel strongly to the right towards a bolt at the ramp above a small tree (50 meters, see also 1. pitch of the ramp variant). From the bolt rappel to the base of the ramp (20 meters).

Approach: Follow the Lycian Way to the south edge of the reef. When the way turns to the north ascend on the south-east side of the reef over blocks and ramps towards a prominent rock bridge with two openings through the ridge. Here, at the west side of the bridge, the route starts.

From the rock bridge to the pillar:

From the rock bridge ascend on the ridge in south direction. This is easy terrain, mostly 1 or 2 with some short sections 3 and one section 4, which is a short layback section leading to a big tree (this tree is also part of the descend route). After this tree, traverse slightly to the right into a wide crack and ascend further to the top of the big pillar to the right, which marks the end of the reef. The length of the route from the rock bridge to the pillar is around 200 meters.

Build a belay at the highest block on the pillar directly in front of the wall.

From the pillar to the top:

1. pitch, 30 meters (6+, mostly 5): From the pillar ascend slightly to the left in a small crack with partially loose rock and pass a dihedral to a small ledge (bolt). Climb further straight up through an overhang to a triangular recess (bolt). Ascend further slightly to the right in order to pass the recess. Above the recess traverse to the left towards a small ledge (bolt). Build a belay at the bolt.

2. pitch, 30 meters (6+, mostly 4): From the bolt ascend slightly to the right at a straight wall for approx. 3 meters (6+). Further up, the terrain towards the top becomes more and more easy. There is a further bolt, approx. 30 meters after the beginning of this pitch.

This is a more ambitious variant to reach the pillar.

Approach: As for the Direct Ridge Way, follow the route to the rock bridge. Pass a bolt. From the bolt rappel to the big tree through the opening and proceed at the south-east side of the mountain for approx. 150 meters at the same hight until the wall at the left side forms a prominent ramp section.

1. pitch (1-2): Start at the center of the ramp section and ascend to the right towards a small tree at the right side of the ramp. There is a bolt at the ramp above the tree (this bolt is also part of the descend route).

2. pitch (3-4): From the bolt ascend the ramp further straight up towards a large terrace. Use the big trees to build a belay.

3. pitch (5): At the terrace, build a belay at the big tree in front of the wall. From the tree ascend further, first straight wall then a dihedral. Further on, pass below a slight overhang and ascend the ramp to the right passing small trees. Build a belay at the bolt on the wall.

4. pitch (5+): From the bolt make a short traverse to the right, then further ascend towards a yellow overhang. Traverse to the left and further ascend in a dihedral. Build a belay at a block.

5. pitch (2): Further ascend in easy terrain in a wide crack to the top of the big pillar at the right side.

1. pitch approx. 150m (1-2): From south-east ascend on a reef towards the big terrace in easy terrain. At the terrace ascend further to the left in south-west direction.

2. pitch (2-3): From the terrace ascend approx. 20 meters towards a big tree on the left side of a prominent, 7 meter wide cave. A belay can be built at the tree.

3. pitch (2): From the tree traverse approx. 15 m to the left to a small tree at the ridge. Use the tree and the blocks to build a belay.

4. pitch (4): From the small tree ascend the structured wall approx. 35 meters zigzag, first to the left then to the right. During our first ascend there were two hornet nests in this wall section, about 3 meters beside the route. Use the bolt on the wall to build a belay.

5. pitch (2): From the bold traverse approx. 15 meters to the left, slightly ascending towards a big tree. Use the tree to build a belay.

6. pitch (6-): From the tree traverse some meters to the left and then ascend the wall beginning with a dihedral and passing a bolt. Build a belay on the bolt at the green step below a big crack.

7. pitch (6-): From the bolt traverse to the right behind the edge and than ascend a dihedral approx. 6 meters. Build a belay at the bolt on the lying wall.

8. pitch (5+): From the bold further ascend approx. 40 meters towards a big tree. Use the tree to build a belay.

9. pitch (2-3): From the tree traverse approx. 20 meters to the left passing two edges. Then ascend the steep wall until it becomes vertical. Build a belay at the bold in front of the wall.

10. pitch (5): From the bolt traverse approx. 10 meters to the right, then ascend the wall in a slight crack for approx. 40 meters. Build a belay at the bold on the wall.

11. pitch (4): From the bolt further ascend the wall, first slightly to the right, then straight towards the summit. Use suitable blocks to build a belay.