Routes as trad in Middle East

Go past Seven to the left and here you are. There's an obvious crack line around the corner.

Natural anchor.

The first pitch is classic face and crack climbing with the second pitch being chimney and off width. Pitch 1: Start on Knife and break left after the 2nd bolt onto the small ledge. Clip a bolt to protect the first crux and then move to the duo cracks. After the cracks clip the bolt and do a few harder moves. Keep it moving through the 3 m run-out to the 2 bolt anchor. (5.10a) Pitch 2: Move up the lie-back crack into the off-width. Chimney to ledge and finish on the 3rd pitch of Knife. (5.9)

Originally bolted by Alex Chabot and called Flake Appeal. In the spring of 2013 Mkhitar Mkhitaryan lead the route on gear, then made the decision to chop almost all the bolts and rename the route.

Two 60m ropes should get you to the ground, but as always, knot the end of your ropes!

Plaisir route Ascent to the routes

It is the crack on the left of the route Something from nothing. You see the anchor from the bottom.

It is the crack on the right of the bolted route pedigree. You can climb the route trad and use the anchor of the bolted pedigree route.

Climb past 2 bolts to a beautiful right facing corner. Shares anchors with Lichen My Whistle

Climbs the corner immediately right of Point. Takes good protection. Shares the same anchors with Point

This is the left leaning crack to the right of Point/Counterpoint. Easy moves lead to a yoga-like step up onto a big ledge. Takes great gear

Start up the ramp for Gohar's slab and climb up the right of the two cracks on the face. Face climbing around the thinning crack leads you higher. Small boulder problem towards the top rewards you with a few good finger locks to the clipping jug. Great nut placements are to be found on this route!

Climb up the super low angled slab making a high-step crux towards the top. Has a two bolt anchor at the end of the slab before the wall turns vertical. A great route for children or first timers. If you don't have trad gear you might as well just solo it to set it up for beginners. It's really easy... Also you could climb a "direct" start with the short slabby hand crack, which is kinda fun. The dual cracks up top (left is easier) have been led but there is no top anchor due to chossy nature of the rock at the top. If you're going to do the "second" pitch or link it to the top, make a gear anchor and belay your second up. Goes at about 5.10

Climb up the boulder to a ledge to start the route. The beginning is the crux where you need to stem and get a few finger locks to reach the better crack above. Once past the initial steep part jam and layback your way up the corner with the occasional jug/large edge on either face for feet/rest. Shares the same anchors with Let's Face It.

An awesome crack in a corner! If you don't know how to jam this will feel much harder! Climb up the corner with great jams. Pull a small bulge to get to the ledge.

Starts at routes "Batman" and "Rusting". Climbs the slab towards the right-hand end of the crag. A number of variations are possible.

The obvious huge corner system is trad.

This is the imposing ramp/crack-line that runs across the right wall of the canyon. There are more trad routes to the right on this block.

On a vertical face on the left of the East side. Start 2m left of Ladder. Pitch 1: Climb the crack in the steep wall to a ledge and belay (8m). Pitch 2: Climb the slab on the Right up to a ledge Pitch 3: Climb the crack on the left up to the top. walk off from the top from the North side

On a vertical face on the left of the East side. Climb the obvious center crack of the vertical wall (more broken than the other cracks) to the ledge (8m). Belay. Continue on the slab to the large belay ledge (20m). Climb the left-hand edge of the 'tower' (10m). Belay. Pitch 2 and 3 same as 'Droushia heights' and 'Ping'

Start 2m right of Ladder on the rightward rising crack to the ledge. The second 2 pitches are as for Ladder.

5 m right of Ladder on the East Side. Pitch1: The huge diagonal crack going right. Belay on the stance under pitch 2. (30m) VS 4b Pitch 2: Climb the small overhang using broken rocks (secure with a BD3 Camelot) into a small stance and then go left on the vertical wall (secure the exit from the stance with a nut). (10m) HVS 5a

Climb the broken wall to the triangular 'sentry box' and exit either left (crossing weeping)

On the east of the crag. P1 easy climbing through the small chimney and up to the big ledge P2 Climb the obvious left diagonal crack up to the the top. you can walk off from the west

route list: https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/cape_pyla-3206/#overview

This route is located on the right of a bolted route. Follow the obvious crack (which becomes off width is some locations) all the way to the belay station of the sport route.

route list: https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/yudi_mountain-19175/#overview

Trad line in the crack next to T100.