Routes in Middle East for selected grade

Traverse in from the right for 5c+

Direct start for 6b+

p1: 24 p2: 24

Multipitch trad. Double set of friends from 0.3 to 5. Two bolt anchor stop P1 and ring chains on P2. Lower-off in two rappels.

İkizim starts with a low bolt on a bulge that is easy to reach from the ground. Climb up vertical terrain on large holds for 15 meters before reaching a ledge. The second half of this route is up enjoyable slab climbing with a tricky sequence at the anchor.

İkizim starts with a low bolt on a bulge that is easy to reach from the ground. Climb up vertical terrain on large holds for 15 meters before reaching a ledge. The second half of this route is up enjoyable slab climbing with a tricky sequence at the anchor.

#35

#32. Crazy exit.

#33

Düşen düşene Extension is a wonderful route that starts on huge jug rails and pulls over a bulge 5 meters off the ground. More steep climbing will get you to a ledge 10 meters up the wall. Continue past an intermediate anchor and step over a vegitated ledge to get on the upper slab. A second anchor is located beneath a small roof at the top of the good quality rock.

Düşen düşene Extension is a wonderful route that starts on huge jug rails and pulls over a bulge 5 meters off the ground. More steep climbing will get you to a ledge 10 meters up the wall. Continue past an intermediate anchor and step over a vegitated ledge to get on the upper slab. A second anchor is located beneath a small roof at the top of the good quality

Starts on the huge ledge. Reachy first move.

Sit start from the white colored portion and go straight up. Alternatively, can use the right side of the bloc.

Neybar is a short and fun route that starts up enjoyable climbing on positive holds. Pull a couple thin moves halfway up the climb before breaking right onto the flake and clipping an anchor located on the lip of the roof. Use the knee-bar for style points

Neybar is a short and fun route that starts up enjoyable climbing on positive holds. Pull a couple thin moves halfway up the climb before breaking right onto the flake and clipping an anchor located on the lip of the roof. Use the knee-bar for style points

Climb the crack in between Crack for Cheese and Middle Finger.

Bring along a set of BD friends/cams up to #2 and double on smaller cams. Add some small nuts for good measure.

A popular slabby route. The name comes from the nature of the movements, stretching hands and feet as a lizard. It can be climbed either direct to the top at 6b+ (recommended) or by darting rock to the crack at about 2/3 height.

beginning of multi-pitch

beginning of multi-pitch

200 m to the right from the other routes

Doubtful rock at the base to good rock middle and up

Bolt Savaşları starts up a twin set of cracks on low angle rock before encounter in a small overhang 4 meters up the route. Continue up wonderful face climbing, staying slightly right of a large pink patch of rock that was dropped during development. Clip the anchor clearly visible from the belay area.

Gönül Çelen starts by scrambling starts by scrambling up low angle rock and past two grassy ledges. Easy crack moves will bring you passed the first two bolts and to a over hanging feature that marks the start of the technical climbing. Enjoy an amazing vertical sequence on a unique inside corner that eventually turns into straightforward face climbing. A nice crack and two small bulges on the upper section will bring you to an anchor located beyond the line of vision from the belay area

Quarantine Creations start with two bolts on the 45-degree angle slab arete. Continue up a vertical face with good jugs that turn to balanced slab climbing. Follow a crack through a large flared feature in the center of the route before pulling a more technical face climbing over the bulge to an anchor that is hidden from view of the belay area.

Quarantine Creations is named due to the fact that the route was opened up by Dani and Nick Weight while they were in quarantine and unable to leave the country.

Location Quarantine Creations is located on the right side of the belay ramp on the left side of the sector. Look for a large flared crack feature that goes up the lower ramp directly above a large tree.

Bambi starts up to bolts worth of slab climbing to reach a ledge. Climb up through beautiful wavy rock that is characteristic of Trabzon. Move through balance move beneath the small roof and continue up the arete to an anchor that is clearly visible from the ground.

Bambi is named after a baby deer that was being walked by a local villager along the base of the cliff during the route's development.

Location Bambi is located to meters left of the medium-sized pine tree growing from the ballet ledge.

Protection 10 bolts, 2 bolt chain anchor with quick clip

Mauser is an enjoyable route that starts with well-protected easy low-angle climbing for the first two clips to reach a ledge. Continue up a flared crack and pull over a small overhanging bulge at the halfway mark. The hardware will lead you past more moderate climbing to reach an anchor that is clearly visible from the ground.

While digging out a nice belay area at the base of the route we discovered a little mouse that also called the crag home. This was also the time a Turkish movie named Mauser was playing in theaters so we ran with the team.

Location Mauser is located for meters left of the large pine tree growing at the belay ledge. Follow a flared crack up most of the route.

Protection 10 bolts, 2 bolt chain anchor with a quick clip.

Suns Out Guns Out is an excellent route that starts with two bolts of slab to reach a ledge. Continue up an arete where you will want to extend or back-clean the fifth clip. Now comes the technical and unique climbing on an attractive pillar capped by a slightly overhang bulge. Easy yet enjoyable climbing on the upper half will bring you to an anchor that is clearly visible from the ground.

On a nice day you will likely understand where this name came from... bang bang

Location Suns Out Guns Out is located on the left side of the sector. You will need to scramble up three meters of rock to a sloped grass ledge. You will find the route where the approach trail converges with the main cliff. It is also seven meters left of a medium-sized pine tree growing out of the same grassy sloped ledge.

Protection 11 bolts, 2 bolt chain anchor with a quick clip.

Leo is an enjoyable traditional climb that utilizes a couple horizontal placements at the start of the route before getting into a nice crack feature. Pull through some slightly over hanging moves on good holds 5 meters off the ground. Follow a crack up an inside corner and through a large roof halfway up the climb. Easy climbing will bring you to one last crux sequence that can be protected from a bolt on the neighboring route or or place a mediocre small nut and push on through delicate moves to the anchor.

Location Leo is located 18 meters right of the prominent inside corner crack that marks the beginning of the sector. Start 1 meter right of the first pine tree growing at the base of the cliff.

Düşen düşene is a wonderful route that starts on huge jug rails and pulls over a bulge 5 meters off the ground. More steep climbing will get you to a ledge 10 meters up the wall. An anchor is located just beyond this point and is clearly visible from the ground.

Haçkaspor is a fun face climb that starts on large holds on dark rock. This will give way too small holds on the lighter colored face before reaching a small roof. Pull super enjoyable moves over the lip and continue on a unique crack to an anchor located in the dark rock above the flake.

Karadeniz is a fun moderate route that begins with a slightly overhanging white section of rock. Go on to the orange face for an excellent sequence of vertical moves with excellent slopers, mixed with positive holds. Finish at an anchor left of the large flake.

Location Karadeniz is located 10 meters left of the predominant inside corner on the right side of the sector.

Protection Sport, 2 bolt anchor

A short but entertaining route, good for a warm-up

Atatürk is a wonderful sport route that begins at the edge of the forest and starts on dark, well featured rock. Pull over a series of bulges that will lead you to a very featured vertical face. The anchor is located beyond the line of vision from the belay area

Location Atatürk is located on the right side of the sector near the forest.

Protection 12 bolts, 2 bolt anchor

Dayı is an enjoyable traditional route once you make it past the tricky starting moves. Begin on fragile rock with a difficult to protect overhanging move to get a good rest in an alcove. Continue up a glorious crack system that gets progressively easier as you get higher on the route.

Location Dayı is located on the right side of the sector. Look for the obvious crack system that passes through and over hanging feature 3 meters off the ground.

Protection Traditional, 2 bolt anchor

Boyan is a tragically bolted sport route that traverses across what should have been multiple, quality lines and creates numerous opportunities to Z clip while at the same time being brutal on your gear to clean whrn lowering. On the plus side this route does provide a convenient midpoint anchor for the very enjoyable traditional route Akçaabat Helvası. Start on quality face climbing up a 10 meter vertical section of wall. Traverse left on thin holds and fragile rock to reach an anchor located near the prominent inside corner crack.

Location Boyan located 33 meters right of the two large pine trees growing at the base of the cliff that mark the start of the crag. Look for a line of bolts in light color rock 3 meters right of the prominent inside corner crack.

Protection 14 bolts, 2 bolt anchor

Hagi Sophia is a brilliant traditional route that follows a left trending set of camouflage cracks that blend into this land of jugs and face holds. This is the land of perfect nut opportunity and passive protection. At the top of the route you will Trend left to an anchor shared with Kulplu Beygir and Covid 61.

Location Hagi Sophia is located 22 meters right of the two large pine trees growing at the base of the cliff that mark the start of the sector.

Protection Gear to 2", 2 bolt anchor.

Covid61 is a wonderful moderate climb up the largest holds in Turkey. Start with a couple slightly over hanging moves on buckets and continue up less than vertical rock on a very featured face. Break left at the top of the route to a anchor that is shared with Kulplu Beygir and Hagi Sophia.

Location Covid61 is located 18 meters right of the two large pine trees growing at the base of the cliff that mark the start of the sector. Look for a line of expansion bolts in between two traditional routes.

Protection sport, 2 bolt anchor

BHYT is an extremely enjoyable, steep route that starts with a slightly overhanging crack section on bolts. Follow amazing face climbing up the dark rock to an anchor that is located beyond the bulge and out of sight from the belay area.

Location BHYT is located 10 meters right from the two large pine trees growing at the base of the cliff that marks the start of the sector. Look for a 7 meter long bolted crack.

Protection 13 bolts, 2 bolt anchor

Kurabiye is a wonderful route that starts on an inside corner and climbs large holds to a bolt 3 meters above the ground. Continue up the left side of an arete feature that is made up of gigantic jugs. Trend slightly left on the upper half of the route to an anchor that is shared with Çamardı.

Location Kurabiye is the first sport route in this sector and is located 3 meters right of the two large pine trees growing at the base of the cliff that marks the start of the sector.

Protection 9 bolts, 2 bolt anchor

Kustiraki is a nice route that starts up an inside corner before transitioning onto face holds and a small ledge halfway up the route. A technical series of face moves on vertical rock will give way to slab climbing and an anchor located underneath an overhang.

Abidin Hoca is a nice route that follows a series of pockets up the light-coloured rock. The behalf consists of a flared crack feature to your left or enjoyable crimps to the right and a very sewn up line of bolts.

Geyikbayırı is a short fragile route up a light colored face of limestone. Start with a tricky steep section that will likely shed a hold or two. Fortunately there is no shortage of bolts to protect the moves. As you continue higher the rock quality improves. Finish at an anchor located left of a small roof.

Bolt Savaşları starts up a twin set of cracks on low angle rock before encounter in a small overhang 4 meters up the route. Continue up wonderful face climbing, staying slightly right of a large pink patch of rock that was dropped during development. Clip the anchor clearly visible from the belay area.

Gönül Çelen starts by scrambling starts by scrambling up low angle rock and past two grassy ledges. Easy crack moves will bring you passed the first two bolts and to a over hanging feature that marks the start of the technical climbing. Enjoy an amazing vertical sequence on a unique inside corner that eventually turns into straightforward face climbing. A nice crack and two small bulges on the upper section will bring you to an anchor located beyond the line of vision from the belay area

Pink Hair enjoys a steep start before tackling a series of triangular shaped roofs. Good hold on steep terrain makes for wonderful hero climbing to the ledge halfway up the route. Pull a tricky to read sequence on the bulge and continue up enjoyable an slab to the anchor located beneath the roof.

Pink Hair enjoys a steep start before tackling a series of triangular shaped roofs. Good hold on steep terrain makes for wonderful hero climbing to the ledge halfway up the route. Pull a tricky to read sequence on the bulge and continue up enjoyable an slab to the anchor located beneath the roof.

Kankilop is a great route with a steep start. Clip a bolt from the ground that is located in a concave feature of grey rock. Pull slightly overhanging moves on large holds for 10 meters before the wall turns to vertical jugs. Shake out at the ledge halfway up the climb before doing a short sequence of technical moves to get on the upper slab. Good footwork will get you to the anchor located underneath the large roof.

Kankilop is a great route with a steep start. Clip a bolt from the ground that is located in a concave feature of grey rock. Pull slightly overhanging moves on large holds for 10 meters before the wall turns to vertical jugs. Shake out at the ledge halfway up the climb before doing a short sequence of technical moves to get on the upper slab. Good footwork will get you to the anchor located underneath the large roof.

Haçkaspor is a fun face climb that starts on large holds on dark rock. This will give way too small holds on the lighter colored face before reaching a small roof. Pull super enjoyable moves over the lip and continue on a unique crack to an anchor located in the dark rock above the flake.

Karadeniz is a fun moderate route that begins with a slightly overhanging white section of rock. Go on to the orange face for an excellent sequence of vertical moves with excellent slopers, mixed with positive holds. Finish at an anchor left of the large flake.

Location Karadeniz is located 10 meters left of the predominant inside corner on the right side of the sector.

Protection Sport, 2 bolt anchor

Atatürk is a wonderful sport route that begins at the edge of the forest and starts on dark, well featured rock. Pull over a series of bulges that will lead you to a very featured vertical face. The anchor is located beyond the line of vision from the belay area

Location Atatürk is located on the right side of the sector near the forest.

Protection 12 bolts, 2 bolt anchor

Sihsara is a beautiful climb with a tricky start. Begin with a long move to a good hold located just above the first bolt then go into a small roof with another tricky bulge sequence. From here it is smooth sailing on amazing features up vertical, dark-streaked limestone with a spectacular view.

Location Sihsara is located on the right side of the sector, 10 meters left of a large pine tree on the uphill side of the trail.

Protection 14 bolts, 2 bolt anchor

Dayı is an enjoyable traditional route once you make it past the tricky starting moves. Begin on fragile rock with a difficult to protect overhanging move to get a good rest in an alcove. Continue up a glorious crack system that gets progressively easier as you get higher on the route.

Location Dayı is located on the right side of the sector. Look for the obvious crack system that passes through and over hanging feature 3 meters off the ground.

Protection Traditional, 2 bolt anchor

Boyan is a tragically bolted sport route that traverses across what should have been multiple, quality lines and creates numerous opportunities to Z clip while at the same time being brutal on your gear to clean whrn lowering. On the plus side this route does provide a convenient midpoint anchor for the very enjoyable traditional route Akçaabat Helvası. Start on quality face climbing up a 10 meter vertical section of wall. Traverse left on thin holds and fragile rock to reach an anchor located near the prominent inside corner crack.

Location Boyan located 33 meters right of the two large pine trees growing at the base of the cliff that mark the start of the crag. Look for a line of bolts in light color rock 3 meters right of the prominent inside corner crack.

Protection 14 bolts, 2 bolt anchor

Covid61 is a wonderful moderate climb up the largest holds in Turkey. Start with a couple slightly over hanging moves on buckets and continue up less than vertical rock on a very featured face. Break left at the top of the route to a anchor that is shared with Kulplu Beygir and Hagi Sophia.

Location Covid61 is located 18 meters right of the two large pine trees growing at the base of the cliff that mark the start of the sector. Look for a line of expansion bolts in between two traditional routes.

Protection sport, 2 bolt anchor

Hagi Sophia is a brilliant traditional route that follows a left trending set of camouflage cracks that blend into this land of jugs and face holds. This is the land of perfect nut opportunity and passive protection. At the top of the route you will Trend left to an anchor shared with Kulplu Beygir and Covid 61.

Location Hagi Sophia is located 22 meters right of the two large pine trees growing at the base of the cliff that mark the start of the sector.

Protection Gear to 2", 2 bolt anchor.

BHYT is an extremely enjoyable, steep route that starts with a slightly overhanging crack section on bolts. Follow amazing face climbing up the dark rock to an anchor that is located beyond the bulge and out of sight from the belay area.

Location BHYT is located 10 meters right from the two large pine trees growing at the base of the cliff that marks the start of the sector. Look for a 7 meter long bolted crack.

Protection 13 bolts, 2 bolt anchor

Kurabiye is a wonderful route that starts on an inside corner and climbs large holds to a bolt 3 meters above the ground. Continue up the left side of an arete feature that is made up of gigantic jugs. Trend slightly left on the upper half of the route to an anchor that is shared with Çamardı.

Location Kurabiye is the first sport route in this sector and is located 3 meters right of the two large pine trees growing at the base of the cliff that marks the start of the sector.

Protection 9 bolts, 2 bolt anchor

Zehirli Sarmaşık is a wonderful over hanging traditional route up a non continuous crack. Start from the base of a large tree and follow nice face climbing before reaching the crack 4 meters off the ground. Continue on a sustained series of moves with a tricky crux at the lip. Resist the urge to turn this into a tree climbing route . Follow the crack up and left until it merge is with the anchor of Doğankaya. (The anchor in the 2018 mini guide it does not exist and the 6+ grade is incorrect)

Location Zehirli Sarmaşık is located directly above a large pine tree at the base of the cliff above the picnic area gazebos. Follow a prominent crack on this portion of cliff.

Protection Traditional gear to 2", 2 bolt anchor.

Zehirli Sarmaşık is a wonderful over hanging traditional route up a non continuous crack. Start from the base of a large tree and follow nice face climbing before reaching the crack 4 meters off the ground. Continue on a sustained series of moves with a tricky crux at the lip. Resist the urge to turn this into a tree climbing route . Follow the crack up and left until it merge is with the anchor of Doğankaya. (The anchor in the 2018 mini guide it does not exist and the 6+ grade is incorrect)

Location Zehirli Sarmaşık is located directly above a large pine tree at the base of the cliff above the picnic area gazebos. Follow a prominent crack on this portion of cliff.

Protection Traditional gear to 2", 2 bolt anchor.

Paşa was one of the first routes developed in the area and the stiff grading hints towards that fact. Start near a grove of pine trees and follow sloping pockets and small knobs up a technical section of face climbing for three bolts. Halfway up this route, the holes get larger as you trend left to an anchor located just beyond a small ledge. Lower down with care as this anchor location will put you back into the forest underneath a slight over hanging face.

Paşa was one of the first routes developed in the area and the stiff grading hints towards that fact. Start near a grove of pine trees and follow sloping pockets and small knobs up a technical section of face climbing for three bolts. Halfway up this route, the holes get larger as you trend left to an anchor located just beyond a small ledge. Lower down with care as this anchor location will put you back into the forest underneath a slight over hanging face.

Kustiraki is a nice route that starts up an inside corner before transitioning onto face holds and a small ledge halfway up the route. A technical series of face moves on vertical rock will give way to slab climbing and an anchor located underneath an overhang.

Abidin Hoca is a nice route that follows a series of pockets up the light-coloured rock. The behalf consists of a flared crack feature to your left or enjoyable crimps to the right and a very sewn up line of bolts.