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East Face Towers

Seasonality

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Description

In front of the giant and obvious East Face of Jebel Rum are the smaller East Face Towers. These offer a good selection of short climbs, with good abseil pistes down. Some routes are great as introductionary climbs, after arriving in Rum village.

Approach

From the Rest House towards the ruins of the old Nabateean temple and afterwards up the scree slope to the base of the central towers.

Ethic inherited from Wadi Rum

Sandstone becomes brittle when wet because it absorbs water, this effects its internal structure. Once the rock surface is totally dry, you need to wait another 24 hours before climbing, this gives time for the absorbed water to also evaporate and the rock to regain its strength.

Routes

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Grade Route
1 5
2 5+
3 5

FA: Tony Howard & di taylor, 1988

1 5 15m
2 5+ 25m
3 5 25m
4 5+ 25m
5 5 35m

Nice short route at left end of the magnificent East Face of East Dome. Pleasant climbing in cracks and good rock with satisfactory protection. Descent by abseil on the route, take care ropes are jamming.

P1: Start the rip left of the little cave. 2-bolt-belay at ledge or combine with next pitch.

P2: Follow the corner crack sytem. Sling belay left of the ledge (for abseiling) or more comfortable gear belay at the ledge.

P3: Follow the crack, sling belay.

P4: Crux pitch, hard for 5+. Sling belay.

P5: Left leaning corner to the end.

FA: Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 1986

A nice corner just left from Inferno. Ends with traverse right to the Inferno bolt and abseils via it. Few bolts included.

1 5+
2 6b
3 5
4 5
5 6a

Topos: Howard guidebook #45. First 5 pitches of "Towering Inferno"

FA: Di Taylor, Wilf Colonna & Tony Howard, 1986

1 5c
2 5b
3 5b
  1. 5c wide crack to your right, and a hidden crack to your left, committing, with a slight overhang move at the end.

  2. Climb straight up left wide crack, a bit hard to protect, chimney on the edges, use left face and body jam finding protection inside, good news ! you reach a station of 4 bolt!!

  3. Same style a bit easier

  4. The crux (Or not !) a traverse left to get to inferno line, that can be easy if you find the right line.

Form here you can try the 6a inferno pitch or just go down on inferno stations

1 5
2 6b

Powerful archetypal laybackig and jamming.

FA: 1986

1 3b
2 3b
3 5b
4 2b

FA: 1987

1 3
2 4
3 5+
4 4
5 6a
1 4c
2 5c
3 5b

Goldfinger goes up the small pillar that resembles a hand giving the finger, in the middle of the east face of Jebel Rum.

No belays are bolted.

P1: Start up the cracks up and right along to a belay below the obvious crack and chimney (5a, 55m), Build your own anchor.

P2: Climb the finger crack to a big ledge (6a, 35m) (5+ if you know how to finger jam), build your own anchor.

P3: Climb up and left in a corner and proceed further to the very top of the Goldfinger pillar(5b, 20m).

Descent in four rappels down the left (Troubadour) side of the pillar. Rapps on this side are bolted

FA: Wilfried Colonna & G. Claye, 1986

1 6b
2 4c
3 6a

First 4 pitches of "The Inshallah Factor".

1 5b
2 6c+
3 6b+ A1
4 6b
5 6c

FA: 1992

1 6a
2 7a
3 7a
4 5c

FA: 1986

Home made hangers on dark rock.

FA: R. Botte, G. Egger, H.Gargitter, Ch. Hainz & C. Obrist, 1995

Homemade hangers.

FA: R., R. Botte, Botte, G. Egger, H. Gargitter, Ch. Hainz & C. Obrist, 1995

1 7a+/b
2 6b
3 6a
4 6b

P1: Big glue in bolts, few cams and nuts would be needed along the way.

P2-4 trad/sport?

Set: Wilfried Colonna & E.Lançon, 1992

Homemade hangers, sling on the small roof.

Slabish climb with very technical moves.

FA: R. Botte, G. Egger, H. Gargitter, Ch. Hainz & C. Obrist, 1995

1 6a
2 6b
3 5c
4 6a

First 4 pitches of "Aquarius".

FA: 1986

Soft rock that comes out in chunks! Not great quality and SCARY we bailed after 2 pitches.

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Thierry Souchard

Date: 2017

ISBN: 9782952638876

A selective guidebook describing 180 multi-pitch routes from 7 areas around the world, covering Calanques, Verdon, Sardinia, Meteora, Wadi Rum, Tsaranoro, Red Rocks, and Zion.

Author(s): Thierry Souchard

Date: 2017

Ce topo numérique présente une sélection de 26 grandes voies (tirées du topo Rock around the World) La quasi-totalité des itinéraires proposés sont en TA. Evidemment, ce style d’escalade « sur coinceurs » force à la modestie mais dans les voies présentées, le rocher se prête bien aux protections, notamment le long des belles lignes de fissures. D’autres voies davantage typées « montagne » privilégient la recherche d’itinéraire à la difficulté pure et sont également intéressantes. Elles sont un prolongement des fameuses voies bédouines. Ces « randonnées du vertige » découvertes par les locaux sont la plus belle et sans doute la seule vraie façon de visiter les lieux. Certaines voies d’escalade décrites ici empruntent des voies bédouines pour redescendre et 2 voies bédouines d’accès au sommet du Jebel Rum sont décrites précisément. Le niveau requis pour la sélection est de 6a/6b sur coinceurs. Tracés précis des voies sur photos « zoomable » Le contenu du topo est visible sur l’appli OmegaRoc.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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